Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I think nismo GMAX is the only twin that doesnt rattle but i might be wrong. I actually like the rattle. Swaps ? haha

yes Nismo GMAX twins etc do not rattle.

Me, i prefer it to be honest. Just a bit of noise.

I love my OS Twin plate. Very nice to drive, not too bad in heavy traffic.

It can also be rebuilt as the plates can be had for around $600 each.

hehe...rattle is cool ^^

basically..to install a twin place you need

-twin plate clutch

-sleeve bearing (smaller diameter) instructions should have nissan part no.s

-sleeve carrier (shorter) ""

-forged pivot ball (nismo etc, highly recommended)

to get the best out of it i'd recommend

-stainless steel clutch line (increases response, takes out vagueness, also take out the clutch loop from original assembly)

-lager slave cylinder (nismo etc...decreases pedal pressure, better level of control, drive ie. parking)

only problem with multiplate clutches is when its time to replace them its very costly.

But they can handle alot of abuse, as long as you can thrash the car WITHOUT slipping the clutch at all they will last a long long time...

also i dont see how the nismo one would be any less hassle that installing an ORC type...

but they are both good clutches so either one would do well..

  • 2 months later...

Exedy twin and tripple clutches come from the same parent manufacturer in Japan as the Nismo GMax. They both have a small spring loaded bracket between the plates that pushes them appart evently to try to eliminate the rattle.

Maybe if you get the clutch balanced properly before installing, it would disengage more evenly and not rattle. Dunno just thinking out loud.

Lunatic - I understand the pivot point and when you say sleeve bearing I assume this is the spigot bearing (Like this one http://www.nismo.com.au/pricelists/General...eedlespigot.jpg) But WTF is a sleeve carrier?

Can you give me any contact details ??...I have a NISMO G-Max twin plate that needs a couple of plates.

When you take the clutch apart it has the exedy part number mate

I've got a Nismo G-Max twin plate as well, it's an AWESOME clutch and yep no rattles, very grippy and isn't either on or off (sprung centre)

ok..the pivot bolt is the lil thing the clutch Fork 'pivots' on...

the bearing carrier is the thing the sleave bearing is pressed into..

the bearing carrier is attached to the clutch fork...

it slides up and down the main shaft when as you clutch in and out..

and the sleave bearing ofcourse, is what pushes against the pressure plate fingers..

this is for push type obviously...

you're right about the lil spring eliminating the rattle though..

The Nismo G-Max has been replaced now by the Nismo Super Coppermix single and twin plate series. The twin plate kit is supposedly rated at 640PS - Im currently waiting the arrival of mine and will post up my impressions of it after its fitted.

  • 1 year later...

Sorry for resurecting this very old thread but it's the closest one I could find with alot of relevant info.

I ordered an ORC 709D twin plate clutch but I haven't received it yet.

Instructions are suposed included as this is a brand new clutch.

However I'd like to have all the necessary hardware when the clutch gets here, of course!

does anyone know of the nissan parts# that I will need? I already had a twin plate clutch(unknow brand)

but it's now busted. I had new NSK throw out bearing installed last year when I had my tranny replaced.

I don't know if it had a forged pivot bearing but it did last close to 50 000km. Any info will be greatly appreciated since I need to have everything installed by April 22nd since I have a Lapping Academy Weekend!

thanks guys :)

Edited by klys
Sorry for resurecting this very old thread but it's the closest one I could find with alot of relevant info.

I ordered an ORC 709D twin plate clutch but I haven't received it yet.

Instructions are suposed included as this is a brand new clutch.

However I'd like to have all the necessary hardware when the clutch gets here, of course!

does anyone know of the nissan parts# that I will need? I already had a twin plate clutch(unknow brand)

but it's now busted. I had new NSK throw out bearing installed last year when I had my tranny replaced.

I don't know if it had a forged pivot bearing but it did last close to 50 000km. Any info will be greatly appreciated since I need to have everything installed by April 22nd since I have a Lapping Academy Weekend!

thanks guys >_<

This will help you if someone can translate ?

http://www.oguraclutch.co.jp/orc/pdf/orc20...e&fluid.pdf

From the above PDF can anyone see if it mentions the friction plate minimum thickness is and also what the part numbers are for replacement friction discs on the ORC 709D

Edited by mambastu

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...