Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so does the engine still run? does it make funny sounds? I reckon you would have spun a bearing if that sort of problem happened at 8000rpm. A 33 i sold had fluctuating oil pressure after the guy bought it and it ended up being the oil pressure sender was failing so that dash was telling a different story from what was actually happening.

Errr - I didnt get to see the oil pressure on mine prior but the word is the screws loosed and the bearings farked (big End). I found out afterwards the previous owner was getting eratic oil pressure readings and was advised the gage was d!cky. Now I'm looking at a full rebuild of my 32 GTR

im sick of hearing that its loose backing plate screws that cause the oil pump problems ITS NOT, i've heard it 8 times this week!!! Its the undersized crank drive on r32 that is the cause. The drive is not wide enough it causes vibrations which wear down the internal gears of the pump(fluctuating oil pressures) and AS A RESULT cause the screws to vibrate loose. Everyone with a r32 should invest in a $240 collett from jun to save them a rebuild!!!!

im sick of hearing that its loose backing plate screws that cause the oil pump problems ITS NOT, i've heard it 8 times this week!!! Its the undersized crank drive on r32 that is the cause. The drive is not wide enough it causes vibrations which wear down the internal gears of the pump(fluctuating oil pressures) and AS A RESULT cause the screws to vibrate loose. Everyone with a r32 should invest in a $240 collett from jun to save them a rebuild!!!!

im snapping one of these up , can you get the from the Jun site is there suppliers in sydney that sell the collett ?

im sick of hearing that its loose backing plate screws that cause the oil pump problems ITS NOT, i've heard it 8 times this week!!! Its the undersized crank drive on r32 that is the cause. The drive is not wide enough it causes vibrations which wear down the internal gears of the pump(fluctuating oil pressures) and AS A RESULT cause the screws to vibrate loose. Everyone with a r32 should invest in a $240 collett from jun to save them a rebuild!!!!

Well, you are right, but the backing plate screws coming out is not wrong :(

I couldn't support your view more in terms of a crank collar, or even R33 crank. Its not worth losing your engine over, I was lucky with mine still got the engine...

oh the screws and backing plate do come loose no arguement but its a result from vibration casued by the small crank drive, not that they just come loose for some reason and this causes the oil pressure problems!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...