Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was in the same position as you. After a whole month of trying to decide, i still couldnt figure out which way to go.

With so much discussion about both coolers and no clear winner, it must mean that both are pretty similar to each other (hybrid vs greddy)

In the end, i figured that both of them were fine for me. And since that there was no bad reports about either, you couldnt go wrong with either choice. I decided to go for the greddy kit in the end. Both were around the same price (for genuine hybrid). The hybrid cooler was a little bit bigger (for r33) though.

What swayed me was that before hybrid came along, everyone was using jap coolers before, so it was a safe bet. Also, i pm'd a couple of people and they said the greddy quality was top notch. And lastly, a friend of mine had a greddy on his 200sx which he was very happy about.

Im sure if i went hybrid instead, it would work just as well...but i guess in the end i just wanted the greddy name :P

some food for thought

for the $$$$$ btw a "brand name" cooler, and a hybrid, you could get more mods that would make farrr more difference to the cars performance than a "brand name" vs hybrid core. they are both going to be better than stock, and the stock cooler has seen a few cars with high figures.

i had a fmic install a few months ago and here's what i found. i considered most options and actually purchased an intercooler without piping. turned out the intercooler was a bad core and not suitable. cooler purchases from things like ebay should be avoided if possible. much better off goign to your local tuner / workshop and asking them for price and get them to do it.

anyway here's what i learnt

1) the intercooler was a crap truck core (the one i brought) - cheapie but still, expensive cos i didnt use it

2) most jap kits will flow the same vs a chinese / hybrid core. the avg car your talking about is like 250rwkw tops which wont show massive signs of restriction / benefit from xyz brand. of course if you were talking about a 900rwkw car then i'd get a few models tested and find the best but not for a midly stocker street car

3) the stocker gtr cooler is good for about 250rwkw or a bit more (thanks sydneykid)

4) your local workshop is likely to do a better deal including supply and install for an intercooler than someone like nengun with a jap brand kit. once you factor in shipping, tax, fitting and workmanship it adds up

5) piping is very expensive, usually more than the core itself. some $400 for the pipes

6) labour to fit and do the piping is expensive, usually more than the core. some $500 in labour

7) some workshops will fit a jap kit some will do their own hybrid copy or whatever their supplier gives them. chances are you wont notice the difference

8) bigger cooler and bigger core generally means more lag in the system. this does not equate to less or more power, just from the time you dump the throttle to the time you "feel" the power is more time because you have to pressure that big core.

i had chasers do mine. i originally brought a 650x300 from shift performance and the cooler core was gay and a truck hack up, way too big for a stocker r33. they fitted a 500 (ish) x 300 core and did the piping and it came up great. some front bar mods (series 2) and all stainless piping fitted. total cost was $1200 supplied a fitted. for a jap kit from nengun avg $1300 then you can have someone fit it or fit it yourself. sure it has an nice apexi logo or trust or blitz but are you really going to notice that extra $600 in original purchase price and labour to fit it ?

again my knowledge really only applies to what ive learnt and researched / found

most people spend more time comparing models and finding if the piping will match than actually having fun with their car. just take it to a workshop and say how much for fit / supply cooler. ask 3 shops, pick the best and book in it

with the v-spl kit including the piping you have to trim the front bar for the piping to fit, and its not perfect, the top pipe that goes across the engine sits a bit high(touches the bonnet) or else you have to trim the fan. (on a s2 r33)

other than that it works and the finish is good.

in relation to the gtr cooler, although paulr33 says the gtr cooler is good for around 250rwkw, i have seen a gtr with a lot more than than, ~320 using the standard cooler. whether or not it would be better to have larger cooler for that power i dont know, but it was not restricting the car to ~250rwkw thats for sure.

I bought the Hybrid monster that supposedly is rated for 800hp and made the piping myself. I have had no issues with lag and run a temp probe post IC and find the outlet temps to be within 1 degree of ambient temp. It is supposed to have only 0.5psi drop at around 15 psi or so. GTR coolers are coming down in price so look for a bargain there too.

  • 1 month later...

Alright. I decided if I am getting one, I am gonna get the GREDDY V-SPL, unless it's more difficult to fit.

Has anyone fitted one of these to a R32 GTST? I am curious how easily they go in (need to cut bar/fan?)

Cheers

Chris

My workshop dude said that the hybrid cores are fine but as someone else suggested, they use chrome plating on the piping in the kits which flakes off and looks like shit.

I have just had a Garret fmic kit installed on my S1 R33. Sits a tiny bit too high for my front bar (which is damn low) but the pipes are shiny and there was not much modification needed.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...