Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 1 month later...

Past \"Hot Topic"\ Sticky Threads


13.4 second 1/4 for your 'stockish' R33. (A how to guide).

Project: 12sec Daily Driver R33 GTS-t

Whats is G-Reddy E-Manage?

Low RPM Stalling Saga in your Skyline - Possibly Sorted

Oil control in RB's for Circuit/Drag/Drift



General Questions Topics

Free Boost Mod

What mods to do first???

DIY 100,000km Service

Upgrading Fuel pump? Dont forget to increase Voltage

$22 Boost Controller

Auto --> Manual Conversion Questions

R33 GTS-t Flat Spot Fix

Mis-Fire under boost?

Fixing a leaking BOV

Backyard Race Fuel

Resetting the Stock ECU

Nissan Patrol Clutch - does it fit my skyline?

Poor Fuel Economy - O2 Sensor

PowerFC Software

PowerFC FAQ

PowerFC DIY Tuning

PowerFC - Road Tune

NISTUNE - All information

Emanage - Everything you need to know

450-500HP turbo, Internal or External Gate?

ECU for my AUTO
ECU for my AUTO #2
ECU for my AUTO #3


z32 AFM Install
z32 AFM Install #2

RB30DET(T) into a GTR

Consult LCD Display

RB25 turbo onto RB20DET - Exactly what is needed

Spark Plugs - Types, Gaps, Duration

Metal Head Gaskets

Intercoolers - Everything from A-Z about them






Engine Bolt-On's and Upgrades


Forged Piston Discussion

RB26 - Dump/Front Pipes

GTR Injectors into RB20

External Wastegate Sizing

Upgraded Fuel pump - Correct voltage is essential

$350 Turbo - 250rwkw (RB25DET)

Manifolds

Front Facing Plenum Install - Full Writeup

Garrett GT30 Thread - Full Writeup





RB26DETT

HKS T04R

HKS T04Z

JUN 2.7ltr Stroker/T04Z

First set of Turbos, many options

300-340rwkw A guide for your RB26




RB25DET

RB25 Dyno Results

HKS 3037 on an RB25

HKS 3040
HKS 3040

RB25 Flat Spot



RB20DET

RB20 - 200rwkw, how too

GT28rs (discopotato)

260rwkw+ RB20 Club

RB20 with RB25 Turbo/Cam Gears - Results

RB20 with RB26 Cams



Before & After

RB25 - Dump pipe

Ex Cam Gear - Before/After

R33 GTS-t SMIC Upgrade to R34 SMIC

Edited by Scott Black
  • Like 2
  • 2 weeks later...

Hi guys just thought i would post a couple of videos with the little mods i have done

Only mod i had done before these was when i boosted the stock turbo to around 11 psi

This is when i took off the old exhaust and before i installed the 3" exhaust

This is when i installed a 3" turbo back exhaust

My cousin had a VL High flow turbo that i decided to put in, with a few mods we made it fit.

i had to get a new oil line ($120) made, because my dump pipe from the turbo to the cat was 1 piece i had it get that modified to suit the VL dump pipe ($250 exhaust mod), had to find the a VL dump pipe and saw a few days earlier that one sold on ebay for $80 but after 1 day of searching on a friday and having to have the car running over the weekend i ended up buying the only i could find for $300 and all the extra piping for the intake and in-between the compressor housing and intercooler which worked out to be around another $50.

Total spent $520 plus what ever my cousin wants for the turbo which he said he paid around $500 which apparently was run for a round 5000km's and rated to 25 psi.

A lot more turbo lag in 1st and 2nd it wont start boosting until 3000 rpm but 3rd gear and over it boosts well. Only running it at just under 8 psi it is significantly faster then before. the night i left i raced another r34 and he told me he had a 3" exhaust and he had boosted it to 10 psi, he had me on take off but as soon i started boosting there was clear winner :) …… it wasn't a proper race it was like a slow rolling start but you could clearly see the improvement.

This was just me taking of from a friends house

Now i really want a FMIC and probably need a fuel reg can anyone recommend brands?

my cousin also said he has a O2 censor that goes to lcd screen so we can work out how much more we can boost it safely……………….does anyone know a safe limit to boost it too once i get an intercooler assuming i have enough fuel being available?

  • 8 months later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 9 months later...
  • 3 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Input shaft bearing. They all do it. There is always rollover noise in Nissan boxes - particularly the big box. Don't worry about it unless it gets really growly.
    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
×
×
  • Create New...