Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi to all,

I'm need here, stumbled here when i was searching the net for reviews of the R32 GTS... couldn't find any though. :rofl:

I'm driving a AE92 Seca Corolla at the moment, and i'm thinking of upgrading to a 4 door 32 GTS. Mainly because i'm still a young driver, and reasoning with basic logic, turbo = more air in = more power if more fuel in as well = not a very good fuel econ figure.

I really want a review on the 32 4 door GTS... i really like the look of the 32, and the 4 door because of its practicality... but what are the real world economy figures for the RB20DE hauling a heavy (compared to corolla :cheers:) body? Is it underpowered? Anything R32 GTS owners wanna share?

Thanks heaps for all your replies.

Cheers,

Jon

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/67627-rb20de-r32-4-door/
Share on other sites

http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_2278/article.html

You need to pay to get a membership. I bought access to all the back issues (304 issues) for $80. I reckon it was worth it, but it depends how much time you would spend reading an online magazine. I think you can buy just the one issue for like $4 if thats the only article you want to read...

So long as it's the DE not the E then i think you'll enjoy it.

However, 4 doors are already harder to find than coupes, and most R32's are turbos so you're narrowing your options yet again.

Also have you contacted any insurance companies and found out what the price difference between cover for NA and Turbo? In my experience there's not a whole lot, the fact it's a Grey import works against the most, Turbo usually only adds a few hundred to Comprehensive cover and almost nothing to 3rd Party Fire/Theft with little higher excess too.

i'm not really concerned about the insurance point of view, because as u said, its a grey import, therefore the cost is already there; turbo or not it doens't really matter.

I'm concerned about the fuel ecnonomy aspect though, with the turbo... not sure how it would affect fuel economy. And also the weight of the R32 4 door might be an issue too.

if you are buying one, you better do it quick before the 15 year free for all ends, as a 4 door N/A will not qualify as a SEVS vehicle because it dosen't meet power to weight ratio requirements.

As for a GTS, my daily driver is one, great economy, better performance than almost all the other alternatives that are in the same category. RWD, handles well, reliable, can't complain... insurance is only $1200 p/a for full comprehensive as well over 12 monthly payments. Mine's a coupe though, but the 4 doors aren't that far behind.

If i was you i'd just be buying the GTS-T 4 door instead of the GTS 4 door, as they are pretty much the same in fuel economy, it all depends on how hard you drive it, and if you decide later on you want more power, which lets face it, we all do its much easier with the GTS-t

David

whats the widest tire width that could fit on the R32 GTS?

i think the GTS only has 4 studs ... so what would be the optimum size for performance?

as far as i know, for my corolla 1.6; 15" is the best on the track, due to its lower inertia and is wide enough to do the job.

also, is engine transplant a usual scene in the skyline world? In the corolla world, we normally get supercharge frontcuts and transplant the bugger over. Cost around 4K all up. i'm tihnking maybe if i outgrow the GTS... maybe plonk in a RB25DE?

I know first hand a RB26DETT bolts straight up to a RB20DET gearbox, the RB25DET would too, and i would assume it'd do the same with a DE. If you want to go for torqe you can always twin-cam a RB30 with turbos.

If you get the RB20DET out of the box you can push respectable power out of that too, but you're always going to be down on torque compared to other RBs. The other advantage of a DET is if you get a Type-M you've already got some awesome brakes with no need to upgrade unless you're doing a fair bit of track work.

The previous question of rims, I know 9.5" fit on the rears and 8.5" on the front, but you'd struggle to get any more on stock guards, esp. the front.

ic...

thanks for all the info guys.

so now i assume that if i actually get a GTS 4 door, i got a few things against me:

- insurance, since its a grey import, might as well get it turbo

- 4 stud wheels instead of 5

- brakes can still be upgraded

and the pros:

- cheaper

- economical even though u drive like a wanker

- if it gets slow, might as well mod it with the "works" ie 2.5L/ 3.0L RB stick some hairdryers, put some nice brakes... and its ready to roll...

....rb20det is pretty dam economical ...i get 11 to 12L per 100km city driving which i think is really good ....and 8 per 100km highway driving

u aint going to get much better than unless u get a smaller laser or corrolla.

my last car with a 2.4 L motor got min 14 in the city and min 10 on the freeway....it was an NA car

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
×
×
  • Create New...