Jump to content
SAU Community

manual conversion


philta
 Share

Recommended Posts

hi all, im new here and just need sum advice on where to get a tranny swap form auto to manual.

if anyone know who to contact plz help out.

any1 know how much it cost anyways. just seeing my options if its cheaper to import a auto and swapping the tranny here.

cheers

Philta

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Phoungy, what's up????

It probably would just make it easier to buy a manual, instead of having it converted from automatic, but if you want to go that way read through this thread - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=63000

The difference in price between manual & auto would probably be lost with the conversion price anyway, although you would have new components.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

just read the thread, but im really serious importing a 4 door skyline, prob is most of them are autos, hence manuals are rare and expensive.

it is an option that im willing to take since auto arent thrashed as bad as some manuals, but if any1 knows any local workshop that does it, plz help out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm in the process of importing a 4 door manual R32. Just be pacient, look through the auctions for a suitable one put a bid on and wait. It may take a while to find one but you'll be happy when you buy one, that you spent the time looking.

Took me 2 months to find a suitable one through trying and bidding on an average of 1 car every week and I'm happy that I did. We'll just have to wait and see what condition it is actually in. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the plug Bam Da Man but that is for a 180sx or R32.

The box alone for an R33 GTS-T is around $1300-$1500 plus all the parts so the conversion would be closer to the $3-$3.5K depending on clutch.

Cheers

Ken

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I did a manual conversion on my r33 and did it all my self... It is a fairly easy job to do and works out cheap if you do it the way i did it.........

I ordered a 33 halfcut (manual) from a place in wangara (pm if you want the details as this place doesnt like to be known about) for about $3500, swaped boxes and sold the halfcut here for $3500!!

The conversion is simple, you and a few mates can change the flywheel and lift the box in. The pedal box is a bit fidgity but if you persist its all ok. You dont have to remove any of the computers as it all adapts well.

The only electrical things you have to sort out are the reverse lights, speedo and neutral start switch (which i just looped together), But i have the way i did it written down if you need it.

Everthing else just bolts in (except for a hole you need to drill for the master cylinder)..... And the beauty of a halfcut is you have all bits to make yours a complete manual.... nuts, bolts, correct dash, centre console, gear boot etc etc.....

Saved me 5000 when purchasing the car, not that i wanted the manual at the time, it just happened that i annihilated the auto haha :)

Mike

Link to comment
Share on other sites

SL33KGTS thanks for that advice, seems like a good idea and might save me sum cash in the long run cuz i might need sum extra parts in the future.

as for swapping it mysef, the only clutch &tranny i ever replaced is on a datsun (81) and that just a straight swap of the tranny and clutch that requires a shit load of upper strenght, becuase i didnt have a ramp.

dont get me wrong, i love doing things myself, but i doubt ill know how to get the peddal in there. and plus i doubt i have the rite tools

cheers guyz

Ps G0DF4Th3R whats ken's number

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had my four done bout 3 months ago. Can't conplain just a few simple things to iron out yet. Like when u convert using a auto speedo it reads 60 kms at 110. I just put a manual speedo cluster in and now 120kms is 110 accordin to gps. Also still got to get the reverse lights hooked up.I got a r34 box put in and it has cost me around the 3g mark but i couldn't be happier. Still worked out cheaper for me to do this then buy and manual and i have a 34 box ;) so much nicer. I have a Phone number of a guy that can do the conversion if u are intrested.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The autos in the 33 are extremely strong and i know of a few with stage 2 shift kits and 2.5 to 3 stalls....

From factory they have a failsafe function to prolong life. Everytime the trany shifts, the computer causes a missfire in the fuel/ingnition system so that no power transfers through the box at that time.... it sucks badly.... but i found a way around it: pump the gas pedal just before change (ie off then on) and she used the smoke into 2nd!!

Another advantage is the snow mode. The snow mode stops the use of 1st gear (unless you are manually in 1st) for slippery conditions..... so when you stall it up, put the stick in 2nd and it stalls in 2nd...... more boost no spin. When the light goes green, drop it into 1st and you'll have full boost. It is litterally like dropping the cluch in a manual ;)

Unfortunately as a consequence i destroyed the box after 6 months of hard driving..... unlucky hehe

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Slap a 460L into the car, send its mum.  
    • So last night pulling away from the lights, I lost power for about 1 second. Bit weird, but I kept driving... 5 minutes later the pump completely dies. When I tried to start the car, the pump won't even prime.  I left the car for about an hour, tried to start it and it all appeared fine. Pump primed, car started, got the fuel pressure I should have.... Start driving home, 5 minutes later it dies again. I'm stuck in a shit spot this time going up hill with a car right behind me, so I just let the car continue to turn over while praying to the fuel pump gods. After about 2 minutes of turning the engine over, the fuel pump came back to life and I got home (only about another 5 min away).  So I've been digging around online, it seems like the 525 fuel pumps really don't like to be run at 100% all the time. I've found quite a few examples online of people killing their Walbro 525 pumps within about a year of usage when they are run without PWM.  So, my pump is an Aeroflow 525 (AF49-1057) and I've been running it at 100% without PWM. I'm thinking the Aeroflow 525 didn't like being run at 100% and has burnt itself up.  I really am sick of dealing with fuel pump issues, my current thoughts are -  1. Use a Walbro 450 and run it without PWM. It seems like these pumps hold up pretty well to being run at 100% all the time. I only make about 350kw and can't see me making any more power any time soon so this is probably a fine option.  2. Get a Walbro 525, run it with PWM. I know doing this will annoy me as I feel like with only 350kw, its extra expense that I don't "need" and I'll be thinking the whole time while setting it up that I should have gone with option 1. I know I'll be happy with this option when its setup and running, its only the initial setup frustration and cost as an issue.  3. Get a Walbro BKS1001 brushless pump. This is the fu*k it I'm already going PWM, might as well go full retard. This option just seems better in every way, with the only downside being cost. But I don't know much about this pump so I could be wrong.  Happy to get everyone's thoughts before I go digging around in the fuel tank again. 
    • Doing it this weekend. For sure this time. Thank you forum gods.  And im running map sensor now with the haltech. Still have the AFMs attached to the mushroom dome shaped air filter things
    • Actually, it is probably pretty legit. I mean, it's still woke feminazi bullshit academia, but you would have to agree that it is very likely that there would be a correlation between wanting a loud exhaust and scoring at the unpleasant end of the scales for dark triad personality traits. The fact that they found it didn't correlate with narcissism and only with psychopathy and sadism definitely shows that the loud exhaust thing is more of a "f**k you" than a "look at me", and I reckon that rings pretty close to most of the dickheads who take it to the extreme. Remember, this is correlation with tendency to be closer to one end of a personality trait scale than the other end. Of course someone who is at the literal opposite end of the psychopathy scale is going to be so considerate of others that they wouldn't even think about wanting to upset anyone with a loud exhaust. So the finding isn't that "you are a psychopath". Just that you score more towards that end of the scale than someone who doesn't like loud exhausts (on average, not necessarily even for specific individuals).
    • Blitz ER34 at some point hopefully, should be allowed in Gr3 if they do.
×
×
  • Create New...