Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i think my car was problems...

my car wont boost higher than 0.6bar boost (factory GTR boost)

i've removed the restrictor and put in a b/c controller (bleed valve system) and it still wont boost past 0.6bar boost...

what's going on

does any1 have any ideas?

ps..i had an engine rebuild it boosted to 1bar b4 but after that it doesnt...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/67685-car-wont-boot-more/
Share on other sites

]']i think my car was problems...

my car wont boost higher than 0.6bar boost (factory GTR boost)

i've removed the restrictor and put in a b/c controller (bleed valve system) and it still wont boost past 0.6bar boost...

what's going on

does any1 have any ideas?

ps..i had an engine rebuild it boosted to 1bar b4 but after that it doesnt...

What sort of boost controller you got? i had a turbo smart boost controller and had the same problem as you. so i took apart the bleed valve gave it a good clean mine was full of crap which stopped it from working properly.

ok here's how to stroy goes..

currently it doesnt have any1 boostcotrollers and it still wnt boost past 0.6

even with the restrictor washer off..

i dont think the b/c is the problem here..

b4 my engine rebuild the car was boosting to 1bar without the restrictor..

but now it's not.

There is a vacuum diagram in the R32 GTR manual that shows the stock boost control solenoid and how it hooks up, as well as how the stock actuators are fed boost. This would be best for you to trace how it is supposed to be set up. Lwells has posted a copy of this manual in general maint. section - download quick! Otherwise search on the net for it.

It sounds like the person that installed your engine has blocked the pipe that the stock solenoid uses to bleed air off the boost feed to the actuators.

The only way is to get that diagram, understand how it needs to work, then go and look under your bonnet.

Paul

There is a vacuum diagram in the R32 GTR manual that shows the stock boost control solenoid and how it hooks up, as well as how the stock actuators are fed boost. This would be best for you to trace how it is supposed to be set up. Lwells has posted a copy of this manual in general maint. section - download quick! Otherwise search on the net for it.

It sounds like the person that installed your engine has blocked the pipe that the stock solenoid uses to bleed air off the boost feed to the actuators.

The only way is to get that diagram, understand how it needs to work, then go and look under your bonnet.

Paul

cheers mate

ur a good man

:rofl:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...