Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

drivers side seatbealt,mine dont wind back up, ill give ya $5?

where in sydney?

n ill take ur headlight globes(unless already sold)

n that black plastic under the engine that protects it from rocks on the road.

n the 2 windscreens squirters on ur bonnet(theings that shoot water at ur windscreen,mines blocked)

0410531540 anytime between 9am n 5pm.

  • Replies 77
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 1 month later...

i'm after the rear boot lid, steering wheel...

how much? and wats the condition of the steering wheel.. if u got pics email me..

$60 each? but feel free to give me a counter.. pm me

edit: dont need the bootlid anymore.. still after steering wheel

Judd, I want the bumper call me on 0401 896 663 or PM me. I also want the interior piece that runs up the drivers A-pillar (where you would normally put a boost guage) I will give you $25 for it. I live in Sydney and will collect these from you on Saturday.

WOuld you be interested in selling the metal impact bar that sits behind the front bar?? If so... how much?

Also, my CV joints are on their way out so i was wondering if you would be keen on selling yours (if they are in good cond). If so, how much. I need both sides.

I also need to get hold of the following seals; * drivers side door seal

* Front windscreen seal

* Rear windscreen seal.

Are they in good cond???? Make a price.

Cheers,

Scott.

Hey buddy do you have a R32 steering,very interested, tell me if you do.

Cheers

JD

the lot must go..

big plans, no money.

RARE

late model 93.  

Engine + turbz (77,000km)

gearbox + new clutch

interior (no rips no tears)

dash  

thats the big stuff taking offers on the lot

5% of the sale of every item goes to SAU.

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
hey, im keen for the rear shocks, what are they like?

Hey Judd, Presuming the carpets will fit R32 GTR we'll prob take em.

wanted some from t88onboard on here, but he doesnt seem to reply.

Really want for this weekend - so a quick reply would be appreciated.

thanks

[email protected]

Michael

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...