Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Nice effort 600hp interesting to compare the time slip with mine if you can post it as last year while running 480-490rwhp (not awd hp) managed a 11.33 125mph, so to put down 11.7 at 115mph sounds like an efficient ET for the mph. But does seem it's not running on as well in the top end strip as you might hope ,yet it's get down the first half well to get the efficient ET.

Again Nice work

pete

  • Replies 96
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

guys my dad was shifting at about 7300rpm when the car revs to 8500rpm this is because we have still not wired up his shift light and with a 4'' exhaust when your doing 2000rpm it sounds like your doing 6000.

at for what sort of mph the car should be good for 125-130mph, this is what jim from CRD says anyway.

the car did a 1.75, 60''foot

as for times, dad said he can easily take another .5 of a second off.

, thats with out any trouble he rekonds.

as for the GT-SS not having much up top.they make peak power at 7500 rpm

if anyone is questioning the GT-SS turbo's i'll let you all know before we go out which should be in two weeks time, and you guys can come and watch.

also it looks like we are putting in an OS six speed sequential so we can really pushh the car.

Cheers Ben

and also i'm no good at computers so i'll write up the whole run sheet a little later.

Thanks guys and yes the OLD MAN said we can all have a drive (his sons that is)once hes done the fastest time he thinks is possible.

Also i don't want to have a drive and then have the box die on me,so i thinki'll wait untill the new box is in before i try to beat him.

Stacey/Paul i heard that you have got a new OS gear set in your car now is this true.

as for the comment on the shift light and tacho. my dad dosen't like looking done when he's going that fast.he is 59.

Also Stacey/Paul/Anyone what is a quick 60'' foot time and what should we be aiming for.

Cheers.BEN

I dream off a 60ft time like that:( My mph was 111-114mph all night long, despite ETs varying from a 12.9 to 14.2, depended if my 60ft was 2.2 or 2.6:(

Take the keys and give them to Fatz or Duncan, want to see if the thing can knock the sled/Zed off top place for Eastern Creek lap times:thumbsup:

11.7 is good for 115mph must have backed off at the top end ????. I've done 11.9@115mph and thats about as good a time as you would get with a 115mph trap that is driving the car to it's full potential . If you have 360kwaw on CRD's dyno in a r33 my guess is something under 125mph and no more which is hell quick for a car that is driven to and from the track in street trim . But hey hopefully you can prove me wrong and go 125mph+ :rofl: .

once we have finished the car as in JUN Plenum,OS sequential,Big Brakes and tuned on C16 we intend on hitting the Track and seeing what times we can get. Yes is would be great to take down a Zed from the No.1 place.is that the UAS Zed.

We intend to one of the quickest Drag, Circuit and driven everyday car in OZ(Thats my dream anyway).

Our goal is a 10.5 with NOS with these turbos.

i know a lot of you will say thats impossible but then again most would not have thought you couldn't get 367AWKW out of GT-SS turbo's.

The response of the turbo's is great so the car should be good on the track.

once we have finished the car as in JUN Plenum,OS sequential,Big Brakes and tuned on C16 we intend on hitting the Track and seeing what times we can get. Yes is would be great to take down a Zed from the No.1 place.is that the UAS Zed.

We intend to one of the quickest Drag, Circuit and driven everyday car in OZ(Thats my dream anyway).

Our goal is a 10.5 with NOS with these turbos.

i know a lot of you will say thats impossible but then again most would not have thought you couldn't get 367AWKW out of GT-SS turbo's.

The response of the turbo's is great so the car should be good on the track.

Hard to set up your suspension to be optimum for circuit, drag and street. My suggestion regarding NOS is to get two bottles. Big ones.

as for suspension its awd, so it'll be a bit stiff all the time and it still should hook up of the line ok.

as for NOS we would put a 100hp shot in to make up some extra mph once we are into 3rd.

Righto then.

Not so much impossible as unrealistic or impractical, or poor return for money invested. You know it would be easier to bolt on a larger turbo and make 450kw+ instead of the plenum, and the gearbox you are talking about is a dog box that requires alot of maintenance (5,000k pulldowns).

But then again anything is do-able...

Guest two.06l
Not so much impossible as unrealistic or impractical, or poor return for money invested. You know it would be easier to bolt on a larger turbo and make 450kw+ instead of the plenum, and the gearbox you are talking about is a dog box that requires alot of maintenance (5,000k pulldowns).  

But then again anything is do-able...

clearly in this build money is not an object. Didn't realise that OS produced a dog engagement sequential transmission. Surely a pfitzner box would be a cheaper and better/stronger option.

OS box is heliquial cut gears so they are not as loud and they don't need as much mantenace.

as for all they other box's on the market,my father wants one which will be a lot quicker to change gears.

as for the larger turbo set up instead of the plenum,out car has got allmost no lag and still pulls.

The car is producing more torque than a R32 with a T88 straped to it,which also was on the same dyno.

Also the price is 16,500au from otomoto.

Guest two.06l
OS box is heliquial cut gears so they are not as loud and they don't need as much mantenace.

as for all they other box's on the market,my father wants one which will be a lot quicker to change gears.

as for the larger turbo set up instead of the plenum,out car has got allmost  no lag and still pulls.

The car is producing more torque than a R32 with a T88 straped to it,which also was on the same dyno.  

Also the price is 16,500au from otomoto.

hope your not comparing it to the abflug car ben....no offence to abflug but...its a dog. 16,500 why not a hollinger can't see why you would spend all that cash and STILL have helical gears which still require synchros.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...