Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok Im sold.... Duncan can you put me down for 1? so correct me if I am wrong.... this system is basically exactly as a stock car would drive UNTIL you modify the signal? then it is tricking the G sensor to think you are loading it up and therefore applying more or less torque to the FW's ?

how does it go with lap times?

Im dead keen for anything that you can keep the car stock looking!!!! awesome!

  • Replies 317
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

How does an LED display which setting you are on, or is it a cluster of LEDs?

Will this kill your centre diff/clutch quicker/more?

Is there any formula to the settings? Ie putting it on 3 ... multiplies the original signal by 3 or something?

williamsf1, that is exactly right, the effect on the lap times in the race car have been up to a second, which is pretty impressive when you think about it....even more in the wet.

While these work in any gtr, it is probably more noticable in the 32 since they were very rwd biased, Nissan recognised this problem and built more fwd in the standard computer on the 33 and 34.

ferni, its just a single LED that flashes a number of times for the level you are on 1-10. FWD off is Red LED on, full FWD is green LED on. I'm not sure of the exact factors that it adds to the standard signal at each level, I just know that it gives us enough range to have 0 to full front torque.

Re the transfer case wear.....it is possible to increase transfer case wear using this, particularly if you set it high enough that there is always some drive going to your front wheels, even in a straight line.

As I said earlier, even in the race car, in the wet, we don't run it higher than 6 it is effective enough out of corners below that level. I guess if you wanted to launch quickly you might set it to full FWD but other than then I cannot see why you would want more front drive all of the time.

all pms sent, and the first units should be ready to send out this weekend.

Hey nxtime (and our other dragers), I've checked this out further, this unit will not help for launches. It only adjusts the output of the lateral sensors, so it won't help you in a straight line ;)

Or if you can find a second hand HKS ETC/EDA or M's ETS on Yahoo Japan like I just did.. Good luck though, it is a pretty evil lot of bidding out there on these thigns, HKS ETC/EDA are goign around the 850-900 mark, I got my M's ETS for $375 delivered though..

Any pictures of this TSC yet?

still interested in one, but I won't get my car back for 2 weeks.

I hate how torque to the front wheels drop when you go around a corner.

Sorry for the delay guys still waiting for pics.....I'm going to take things into my own hands on Sat and take the damn pics myself if I don't have them by then!

First batch of controllers are completed and ready to go.

Williamsf1, yes, and you have pm

Alright I would like to get one of these now, the M's TSC is perfect for Drag Launching, so this shoul be good for my street driving as I am finding the R32 to a little too tail happy when trying to apply the 420 hp.. Please PM me your payment details..

I take it they come with a full set of installation instructions or atleast some chicken scratchings on a napkin??

Hey Yorik,

Yeah if the Ms TSC is like the HKS controller, it is probably great for launches but not really what you want to improve the handling. Then again I'm sure some of the drag fans in this forum would love to take it off your hands since this controller won't help them.

Anyway, pm sent with details, and yes the controller does come with instructions/scratchings for installation, there are 7 connections to be made, its pretty straight forward.

Mark, the pictures didn't seem to post properly, if you want to send them to [email protected] I can post them up. :rofl:

PM Sent regarding payment...

I am going to keep the M's Controller for the one 'legal' drag event a year up here.. This controller should complement it nicely. I should have basically a lot of control over the 4WD system after this..

Cheers..

heres another

And the actual box itself is just the black component box that lives under your console. Apart from the switch and LED there is nothing to see in the car.

Here is a pic of it installed in a 32 GTR. As you can see, no visible box, just standard controls and an LED. We can provide a switch instead of these radio controls if you prefer

tscinstalled.jpg

We originally had an analogue dial similar to the UK unit linked earlier, but the digital style controller is much easier to use and is more precise, especially on the go

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...