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I assume you are referring to Ben @ Racepace's R33? I've yet to see a verified output of that motor, the only reference I have is the HPI article where he states he has 425kw @ wheels - on 19psi... a power figure some people are reliably making on RB26's locally (cough Paul + Stace).

If you are talking about a 550+kw motor, what about Leewah's R33? How often has that had durability problems?

Another good one is Keir Wilson or John Munro, abeit the milage on those cars is extremely minimal.

Is 400k's a good indication of a street car? I think that's probably one big long cruise...

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Bens is one of them. I'll ask him of what he runs if you like, i'll be there enxt week to get my car back.

Its more than 425kw though im sure

Leewah's does get driven, but remember there was NOS on the AutoSalon run, obviously its not using that on the street. Hopefully he wont kill me but he runs around 400kw on the street.

And he does bring it out too meets, usually Thursday night ones :D

The occasional weekender if dave is free.

As for durability, its had no problems at all.

i'd say a car thats done 20thou+ (like bens) majority of track, is a very good start.

Years go on, more Km's you do

Sorry Ronin09 i didn't realise that we were talking about track work over two years as long term.

sorry mate, not having a go at you directly. Just sick of people chiming in about some things they aren't experts in. I've edited the post, didn't mean to be rude :D

that's exactly what I was thinking. a 1000bhp car will be pretty crap off boost...

Umm i have been lucky enough to be in a couple of the cars being talked about here...and they are fine for daily driving, plenty of repsonse and power to get around. God help you if you ever want to use the power they have available on the street though:)

  • 2 weeks later...

Using an RB30 with RB26 head is fine if you haven't already got a RB26 block. If you have, it would be silly to go to a much weaker block and crank. Its nowhere near the strength of the RB26 crank and cradle arrangement. It's pretty hard to beat and what makes RB26 blocks and cranks so much stonger than RB25's and RB30's. (Also why 1UZ-FE and 2JZ-GTE's are so bulletproof)

Using an RB30 with RB26 head is fine if you haven't already got a RB26 block. If you have, it would be silly to go to a much weaker block and crank. Its nowhere near the strength of the RB26 crank and cradle arrangement. It's pretty hard to beat and what makes RB26 blocks and cranks so much stonger than RB25's and RB30's. (Also why 1UZ-FE and 2JZ-GTE's are so bulletproof)

The RB30 block would be under more stress if used in 4WD, so it would be limited more than the 26 block.

RB30's have been proven on the strip and the track to be just as reliable in 2WD. There are several VL RB30ET's on street tyres that are in the same league as the quickest skylines on street tyres. Alot of people here tend to ignore the VLT's simply because they are commodores and are not as sophisticated.

IF you were to build a 2WD street car there's no reason why you wouldn't choose a RB30 unless you like lots of lag.

I finally got to drive a RB30det today, there is no way i could go back to a RB25DET or even a RB26DETT. The low down torque is simply amazing..:whackit:

Alot of people here tend to ignore the VLT's simply because they are commodores and are not as sophisticated.

IF you were to build a 2WD street car there's no reason why you wouldn't choose a RB30 unless you like lots of lag.

no, i'd say the reason is 90% of them are running autos with slicks.

Its hardly an effort to get a non IRS car into the low 11's with a nice auto and slicks... and around 300rwkw

It gets done all the time.

Setting up a sky IMO takes a lot more work

Not many fast VL's out there these days are running on street tyres.

There are most Sky's out there doing in on the streeters thats for sure.

Going to Calder park on Fridays... you get too see this kinda thing

The RB30 block would be under more stress if used in 4WD' date=' so it would be limited more than the 26 block.

why?? is rb26/30 is not good for GTR 4WD system??[/quote']

The 26 block is alot thicker/stronger than the 30 block.

With 4WD there is alot more weight hanging off the bottom of the block (front diff/sump). A 1000 bhp 26/30 4WD would need extensive strenghtening which is big $ and makes the 26 block look cheap.

The only place where you would use the 1000hp would be on the strip and on the dyno. Is it really worth the $ ? :headspin:

Using an RB30 with RB26 head is fine if you haven't already got a RB26 block. If you have, it would be silly to go to a much weaker block and crank. Its nowhere near the strength of the RB26 crank and cradle arrangement. It's pretty hard to beat and what makes RB26 blocks and cranks so much stonger than RB25's and RB30's.

Before we started to use RB30's a lot of people told me that RB26's were superior and that we should use them. So I did a lot of testing amd measuring.

I have measured many RB30 and RB26 blocks, I have yet to see any evidence of the standard RB26 block being any stronger. The bore to water jacket metal content is exactly the same, the main bearing cradle is basically the same, the main bearing bolts are exactly the same diameter and thread pitch.

As for cranks ditto, I have checked the hardness on the cranks (30HRC), counterweights (28HRC) and their bearing surfaces (55HRC) and I have no evidence that the RB30 crank is made of any different material to the RB26 crank or is hardened to any superior level.

I fact I would argue that the RB30 stroke / rod length ratio (1.79) is superior to the RB26 (1.65) and therefore there is less loadings on the crank and block than an RB26 producing the same horsepower.

So until I see some real evidence of RB26 blocks and cranks being superior, I will continue to use RB30 blocks and cranks.

:D

No engine that makes anywhere near 350hp/litre is going to last as long as one that makes 130hp/litre, so you're not going to get the same life as a standard engine would. In reality you are probably not going to get 10% of the engine life.

At similar hp figures, the 3litre will last longer as it's not spinning as fast to pump the same amount of air. The RB30 crank is the same material as a 26 crank and the same design, just a longer stroke and slightly bigger diameter conrod journals. The longer rod and taller deck puts less thrust load on the piston and bore. The block on a 26 does have some more ribbing but personally, I havent seem a 30 block crack in the areas where the 26 has extra ribs. The only cracks I have seen in either (apart from an engine that has had something break inside it) is around the head bolt holes on an RB26, I haven't seen this on a 30. I would be interested in seeing how an RB30 cooling system would work if the block was filled so it had the same cooling volume as a 26 as this would make the bores a lot stiffer.

I'd also be interested to see how a 26 crank would work in a 30 block as it would give you a much higher rod:stroke ratio,around 2:1 which in any engine should give you better cylinder filling and more peak power.

Finally though, any engine that makes 1000hp does so at the detriment of torque and driveability, it might look good on a dyno but a power curve that is smooth and parabolic from a fairly low engine speed will be a quicker car on the street that one that has a near vertical power curve starting at 6k rpm. The bigger the area under the curve, the better overall package it will be, remember, on the street you dont have VHT or slicks and sometimes it rains.

Before we started to use RB30's a lot of people told me that RB26's were superior and that we should use them.  So I did a lot of testing amd measuring.  

I have measured many RB30 and RB26 blocks, I have yet to see any evidence of the standard RB26 block being any stronger.  The bore to water jacket metal content is exactly the same, the main bearing cradle is basically the same, the main bearing bolts are exactly the same diameter and thread pitch.

As for cranks ditto, I have checked the hardness on the cranks (30HRC), counterweights (28HRC) and their bearing surfaces (55HRC) and I have no evidence that the RB30 crank is made of any different material to the RB26 crank or is hardened to any superior level.

I fact I would argue that the RB30 stroke / rod length ratio (1.79) is superior to the RB26 (1.65) and therefore there is less loadings on the crank and block than an RB26 producing the same horsepower.

So until I see some real evidence of RB26 blocks and cranks being superior, I will continue to use RB30 blocks and cranks.  

:)

The RB30's don't have a cradle design for the crank. Its as simple as that. Why do you think an RB26 can rev so hard reliably with the stock stuff compared to an RB30. Nothing to do with capacity but the crank design. Brave man to rev RB30 stock bottom end to 8000rpm+. RB26's ARE for revving. If you want torque off idle get a V8.

The RB30's don't have a cradle design for the crank. Its as simple as that. Why do you think an RB26 can rev so hard reliably with the stock stuff compared to an RB30. Nothing to do with capacity but the crank design. Brave man to rev RB30 stock bottom end to 8000rpm+. RB26's ARE for revving. If you want torque off idle get a V8.

All of nissans RB engines run a main cradle and all of them use 10mm dia main bolts.

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