Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

None of the usual suppliers (Mod Your Car, Slidewize) are no longer able to source new Buddy Club rims. Apparently this is due to the Japanese company closing up shop. Have read a few forums which sorta confirm this:

http://www.jtuned.com/forums/showthread.php?t=373

Pissed me off no end. There's a bit more to it though, I'll see if I can find the other link..

  • 2 weeks later...

Buddy Club has in fact closed up, the news was a month ago...the P1's are gone forevar!

Similar thing happened to SSR...the Type C's are gone forevar!

Influx of cheap China made rims, like the copies of TSR Type C's I saw here in Taiwan is the main reason. They look identical except for the logo, even the font and colours scene for the logo is identical just the brand name.

Such a pity...both SSR and Buddy Club poured heaps of money into redesigning the wheels with cheaper materials and process but failed to succeed. Hard to imagine but this is the story I was told when I spoke to my supplier in Japan last month. Even my mate at SA told me the same story, they have no more stock. This will only makes these wheels even more sort after as both these wheels models Type C and P1 QF are the lightest and 2nd lightest racing wheels in Japan...lighter than Volks TE37.

Buddy Club has in fact closed up, the news was a month ago...the P1's are gone forevar!

I actually heard that it's just the Jap owner (First Inc) going belly up, and that internationally Buddy Club is ok. I spoke with Jeff Ash at C-Red and he reckons that they make start taking orders again quite possibly as soon as a couple of months from now, but no official word.

Vijay

I actually heard that it's just the Jap owner (First Inc) going belly up, and that internationally Buddy Club is ok. I spoke with Jeff Ash at C-Red and he reckons that they make start taking orders again quite possibly as soon as a couple of months from now, but no official word.

Vijay

I don't know about Buddy Clubs involvement outside Japan, but none of the wheel outlets in Japan can get any more stock then what they already have still remaining.

PS, I know Jeff Ash well :cheers:, put him in contact with a couple of his suppliers in Japan.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you take the top half of the intake off you can unbolt the flap off the shaft and leave the shaft in there blocking the hole. Then you can remove the little vacuum canister off from under the manifold and get a spare vacuum line to run to the ECU. I can take some photos of it later. Probably best to get the vacuum source to the ECU sorted first though. Mine all worked mint with the base map from the GTT an I've pretty much let the closed loop sort the fueling and took 1 degree out of the whole timing map.
    • This IS something you also have to configure in Haltech (or at least I did in the past when going from onboard-to-ECU map sensor and an external MAP sensor in haltech land).
    • I'm hoping it's something as simple as the ECU is looking for an external MAP sensor, but he is trying to use the onboard MAP sensor.
    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
×
×
  • Create New...