Jump to content
SAU Community

Bloody Drag Racing.

Bass Junky
 Share

Recommended Posts

Bass Junky Grand Master

Bass Junky

Posted
Posted

Hey ppls.

Well, here's the story.

First time out, ran a best of 13.4 at 106mph.

No Major mods, stock clutch, stock turbo, computer, etc. etc. About 160 odd rwkw

Only mods were king springs and koni adjustables at the softest setting.

Hooked up to a 1.9 60ft. No Axel tramp, all good.

Next time out, new mods were Ogura Lightweight Flywheel, HKS Front Mount. 165 odd rwkw.

Couldn't better a 14.4 at some lowly mph.

Axel tramp to the shithouse, shuddering through gear changes etc. etc. about

Last night, new mods include PowerFC, bit more boost, etc etc 200 rwkw. Pineapples set to drag, Camber and alignment kit.

Again had problems getting it off the line, and through the gears.

Would either spin em up on the line and then have reasonable changes, or it would get off the line okay, and then when changing gears (esp into 2nd) it would break into axel tramp and bounce it's way down the strip.

Best time of 13.9 at 101 mph. This was with a long cool down (about 45minutes) and a good launch.

2.219 60ft (Crappy I know)

9.052 660 ft @ 80.68

13.926 @ 101.07 at 1/4 Mile.

$1000s of dollars to go slower! ARGH!

Why oh why?

I have wider tyres now, but no that hasn't helped.

My theory is that with the lightweight flywheel the car is too keen to spin en up and at I change into second, it break traction and bounces away.

Also, I noticed that when changing gears, unless I really really rushed it that the car would jerk back as I let the clutch out and put the foot down again. Again, I think that the flywheel is the culprit as there isn't as much inertia to keep the engine going and get that little jolt of forward motion as the clutch comes out.

Why couldn't I crack the 12s... I so wanna crack the 12s

Any ideas???

Do all you drag racers run light weight flywheels??

BASS OUT

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70559-bloody-drag-racing/
Share on other sites
7heavn Experienced

7heavn

Posted
Posted

your 60ft's suck

Maybe try lowering your tyre pressure . When you mod your car the charactaristics change alot and how you got off the line before might not be the best way this time . Practice practice practice starting by dumping at say 3500rpm's and work your way up the rev range untill the 60ft's drop . You may find that you need to ride the clutch alittle off the line for the best results and that may require a totally differen't rpm then when just side stepping , it's all about trial and error .

7heavn Experienced

7heavn

Posted
Posted

hahaha yeh I didn't want it to come arcross as harsh was a last minute post :cheers: . I've done worse in a 2wd car out at the creek so don't feel bad 2.260ft isn't all that bad for 2wd on street rubber but if you can get it down to 1.9 then thats about the best you could hope for on street tyres.

But then again hey all this advice is coming from a GTR owner us guys don't have any probs with 60ft'ers just everything else

:D

2rismo Grand Master

2rismo

Posted
Posted
nar your a 10th off :cheers:. Hopefully next time out  might be able to see some 1.6's .

Kewl but

But then again hey all this advice is coming from a GTR owner us guys don't have any probs with 60ft'ers just everything else

This little RWD chicken runs 1.6's. Then again, hey all this advice is coming from a lowly gts-t owner, us guys don't have any probs with 60ft'ers :D

:)

Adrian

Bass Junky Grand Master

Bass Junky

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Nah it was good all night.

I had Wanli tyres on which I've been told recently are grippy as for a cheap arse tyre (were on the car when I bought it), and I started at a 13.7 and got to a 13.4 at the end of the night. The this ran a 1.9 60ft and launched hard. Dumping the stock clutch at like 6000 rpm.

That's why I'm so frustrated with the crappy times last night. My car is much faster now that it was, but the crappy times show that it ain't the best on the strip.

Rev210 picked up 0.4 of a second with the lightweight flywheel.... Why did I drop speed?

BASS OUT

neil_se Experienced

neil_se

Posted
Posted

Something else sounds up rather than just a bad launch and wheelspin, you should still be running, at worst, 106mph. Even when i had a shocking 60', wheelspin til 3rd, hot day, blah blah, i still ran the same mph of 114 even though my ET was 13.4. I also had a lightened flywheel, but it wasn't the cause of my crap times (best of 13.0@113mph).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • PranK
      R35 GT-R production ends after 18 years

      By PranK · Posted

    • SteveL
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By SteveL · Posted

      I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...