Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

Anyone else got a broken centre console latch?

You know, the little button you press to open that compartment behind the hand brake that you rest your left elbow on??

I have found on both my R33's that these were broken and didn't realise how annoying it had been till I fixed them.

Here's how I did it -

WHAT YOU WILL NEED - All you will need is a medium sized safety pin, Phillips head screwdriver and a pair of pliers.

TIME – 10 minutes.

DIFFICULTY – Piss easy! I reckon I could teach a monkey to do this.

STEP 1.

Remove console lid by undoing the 3 screws that go down into the console.

This may require a little gentle jiggling to clear the hinge springs after the screws are removed.

You should have the lid as in pic console01.

STEP 2.

Remove hinge from lid (3 screws) and all the screws (8) holding the plastic underside of the lid in place.

This will allow you to take out the latch, removing the broken bits of plastic that have been rattling round in there.

Refer pic console02.

STEP 3.

Find a medium sized safety pin, make sure that the size of the hole part on the pin is a snug fit over the latch pivot (pic console05).

Cut the head and point of the pin off, and bend with the pliers as per pics console03 & console04.

STEP 4.

Place pin within the latch as shown in the rest of the pics, then trim the pins top arm to be close to flush with the face of the plastic (pic console06).

STEP 5.

Put everything back together.

You should now have a nice firm feeling, spring loaded latch.

Hope this helps! :spank:

post-12522-1123161356.jpg

post-12522-1123161509.jpg

post-12522-1123161733.jpg

post-12522-1123161767.jpg

post-12522-1123161838.jpg

post-12522-1123161995.jpg

post-12522-1123162040.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70913-how-to-fix-centre-console-latch/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Fantastic.

I went to Nissan to order a new catch, and was told I had to order a whole new lid ($80). I was just about to ring back and confirm the order when I saw this post. Thanks a lot.

thommo - I owe you a beer next time your in Adelaide.

Fantastic.

I went to Nissan to order a new catch, and was told I had to order a whole new lid ($80). I was just about to ring back and confirm the order when I saw this post. Thanks a lot.

thommo - I owe you a beer next time your in Adelaide.

hehe, i will dead set hold you to that mate :P

Fantastic.

I went to Nissan to order a new catch, and was told I had to order a whole new lid ($80). I was just about to ring back and confirm the order when I saw this post. Thanks a lot.

thommo - I owe you a beer next time your in Adelaide.

$80? I called my local Nissan dealer and that quoted me $170 or something for a new lid assembely. So Thommo :)

ah tommo y didn't you come earlier, i pikt up a new lid from the wreckers. the way i did it was wedge a folded up piece of paper in between the latch and lid part. sometimes the lid still came up and i miss shifted a few times into third because my arm hit the lid and i couldn't pull the gear stick right back. Cheers.

  • 2 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...