Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i was tightning them with 1 hand until it was firm and then pop.....

i thought the valve or whatever it was called was going down but no, the bolt broke....

anyone have a spare bolt for the cam brackets?

or will nissan charge me like $94.86 for 14 of them i dont need?

yeah, thats similar to the thing i got from bunnings the other day.. havent used it yet...

either way, i am f**ked...

i have to either drill and re-thread the hole and use a bigger bolt, or try using an easy out....

but the main question is

Does anyone have a spare cam bracket bolt i can purchase off them, or a part number for nissan... (or will they only sell me a pack of more than 1?)

yeah, but if i drill it out, wont there still be some of the old bolt left in there?

and also, i could damage some of the tread the bolt would attach it self to....

atleast if i use a easy out tool, i just have to drill a small hole into the broken bolt, then easy it out....

its about 1.5cm into the head, so might be a little tricky

If your going to replace the cam journal/cap, whatever they are called...be sure that it is toleranced for your engine. I ran into troubles when i used one of another engine on my otherwise perfect RB20.

I wouldnt think its overkill to drop off to a mechanic to be sure that the tolerances are all ok...as from the factory the gallery for the camshafts is line bored/honed (whatever the proper term:)) so sure its a bugger and agro, but best be sure:)

i snapped it replacing the cams... not from driving it...

want to do it all myself as a learning experience...

And whilst i didnt snap the stud, it diud seize in the cap which meant that i needed to source another one. I used a 2nd hand one off another RB20 that appeared to be in perfect nic, but as i said the tolerance turned out to be a bit different...so when car was off at tuners, the inlet cam became hard to turn and just about seized meaning that the cam belt skipped teeth and i ended up with bent valves:(

Im all for trying to do yourself, just be sure about the journal size should you decide to replace it

And whilst i didnt snap the stud, it diud seize in the cap which meant that i needed to source another one. I used a 2nd hand one off another RB20 that appeared to be in perfect nic, but as i said the tolerance turned out to be a bit different...so when car was off at tuners, the inlet cam became hard to turn and just about seized meaning that the cam belt skipped teeth and i ended up with bent valves:(

Im all for trying to do yourself, just be sure about the journal size should you decide to replace it

Its common for the bolts to seize in the cap , the alloy corrodes ( white stuff ) and its hard to pull the bolt out .

If you notice all the cam caps are mumbered and you must put them back whre they came from otherwise you are looking for trouble . If you must use a new one you have to torque it down then tunnel bore to suit , of course you can use a second hand one and measure the clearence but you must make sure its within specs .

Warpzor ,

the best way to get the broken bolt out is : drill as big a whole as you can without going into the thread , so about 4-5 mm will be about right . Get an easyout and you should be able to get it out . If you drill a very small hole you will snap the easyout . Make sure you drill straight .

If you stuff the thread , drill a bigger hole and put a helicoil in there .

Whatever you do dont break the easyout in there so dont force it to much and dont use a chinese aeasyout !

Good luck with it

Depending on how the bolt is snapped off, you might also be able to weld something (like a nut) onto whatever is left of the broken fastener.

If you don't really know what you are doing, it might be worthwhile getting one of the mobile thread repair type guys to come and extract the busted bolt. For $100 or so it might save a lot of time, frustration and could prevent further damage. Removing busted easy outs isn't much fun.

did the same thing on thursday last week tourqed all inlet up to 9Nm last one just spun in the head them pop thought it was the wrench clicking off but nope!! snaped in the head

stay away from ezy outs there nothing but trouble

here is what i did

a friend of mine made a jig used the cap as a guide made a dowell like object that sliped tightly into the cap taped it through the cap and slightly into the head the jig had a 3mm hole in the dead center

once clamed with the cam cap in place with the other bolt drilled really slowly using inox to cool and lube the bit, thi step is done to drill the dead center of the hole other wise there is a chance that the bit will slip and you wont get center, because the bolt is hardened steel and the head alloy, alloy is much softer and the drill bit will prefer this

once the 3mm hole is drilled get a hold of a

M6 x 1.0mm

hellicoil kit hire one if you have to itll save you alot of money,

follow the steps drill out rest of hole with the drill bit attached

then using the thread tapper cut a new thread all ensuring that you are going straight

cut all the way to the bottom of the hole

the slowly screw the helicoil into the new thread

make sure you clean out the hole before you place bolt back in

(another tip is, if you have 1 get a magnet hold it on the smaller drill bit and use the drill bit as a magnet and get all the fillings out, also use masking tape and tape over the area so no fillings get in the head)

as for bolts use any hardened or high tensile bolt got mine from repco they are M6 x 1.0 35mm witha hardness rating of 8.8 these are common bolts they are the goldy collour ones spoke to an engineer they said thay are fine because of the tension they are at

the reason i went this way is that once you have ezyouted the old bolt the thread is ****ed even if repaired has been weekened from the abuse it just coped

helicoils are stronger than the original alloy, but i just like to be safe

sorry this is such a long wined post but its something that i feel strongly bout

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Murray_Calavera iam just considering options 🙂 of course it is very expensive so that why i ask here 🙂  @joshuaho96 I looked at that GCG hybrid(i remember looking at it few weeks before) So this is "that" hybrid where i send them my turbo and they upgrade the inside to Garrett stuff and then they send it back. It cost around 1200-1300 USD which is FAR cheaper than the HKS and it is what iam looking for(i just do not have experience like this...to send something off to "upgrade" ) @tylink720 that is like 150 USD turbo no? 😄 I dont think i have the "ease on my mind" with this kind of turbo. I just put over 7000k USD to "LINK" up my engine...dont want to blow it up with cheap turbo 😄     EDIT: https://www.cj-motor.com/gcg-turbo-charger-for-nissan-rb20det-rb25det-high?srsltid=AfmBOooVeOZ6CZ6r1AIv5m-KPaa6BvudIPJTY8LW78khkd-gQlsaCht9 I looked at this and it seems ok? It is that CGC hybrid and it costs around 1250 USD (with back shipping). Do any of you have experience with this hybrid on NEO turbo? I quickly look thru the forum/web and it seems very good.
    • Echo the awesome sentiment 👍 Definitely a car worth saving. Looking forward to seeing updates as well. 
    • Scenic roads, stunning skylines, and Chickos to finish it off! Join SAU NSW as we cruise through the Royal National Park and along Lawrence Hargrave Drive to Figtree! Sunday 26th October 2025 4:30PM Meeting Waterfall Station Parking 5:00PM Cruise Departure Royal National Park > Lawrence Hargrave Dr > Memorial Dr > Sid Parrish Park 6:15PM Arrival at Sid Parrish Park Figtree Meet Location: Waterfall Station Parking Final Destination: Sid Parrish Park RSVP: https://forms.gle/E4s5SiRKQfDdypky8 *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • It's funny, as Ive seen plenty of people use them in cheap builds on YT. And they actually go okay, even though a lot of other maxspeedingrods stuff is terrible. Those turbos seem reliable enough, the only part being, a good quality turbo that is "identical" to it, will out perform it day in and day out. In both a lower boost threshold, and the ability to flow more air at the same boost pressure. As a cheap cheap replacement, not a terrible choice. For cheap and shouldn't blow in a day, not terrible (like other eBay/Temu turbos) for low cost and still decent performance, that's where the question comes in to play from the results I've seen. I'd actually find it hilarious to buy one, and strap it to a paddock basher or some other cheap as POS originally NA car, and send it to the moon!
    • The maxpeedingrods turbo is cheap and bolts on to stock parts. I think you just need a bigger silicone coupler for the intake. Its a cheap china turbo, but it's been running on mine for almost 3 years at 16-19 psi.
×
×
  • Create New...