Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This is mainly for roy and blck32, but others may find it useful.

Here are pix.. hope u follow.

The bottom of the bracket on the bottom of the radiator support, I undid, and shoved up, whilst putting the bolt back in. So the bracket basically sitting on top of the bolt.The washer on the bolt wedges it into place and is a very solid fit.

latch01.jpg

Spacers/washers basically fit behind the top radiator support there.. allowing the bracket to be moved back about 1cm from the support. Those bolts were a bit big, but all I had sitting around that would suit at the moment.

latch02.jpg

I had to remove that centre bolt and just left it like that. Its not massively important to the rigidity.. but you may wish to redrill, and the refit bolt if you like.

latch03.jpg

finished result..

gtr_bonnet04.jpg

p.s. don't whinge at me for putting on a GTR bonnet! my gts-t one came from japan badly faded and with a dodgy chip in there, and dented.. to fix would require new GTS bonnet (~$300) + painting ($300) = $600.. I only paid about $100 more to get an aluminium bonnet, in my car colour, that should provide a bit better airflow to the engine/radiator at the same time. The fact that it happens to be a GTR one that is what it is..

yeah, sometime when I want to waste $300 or so for a grill and painting.. wish there were more options available than stock GTR.. it looks a bit funny.. pov street racer look though ;) lol

man, you have good vision.. yeah, the LHS light needs adjusting.

That strap fromt he bottom of the radiator support mount, i see a lit of ppl removing it when installing intercoolers, any problem doign so. Mine is still there, but would think it would be pretty easy to grab some 30x3mm steel strap and bend/drill up a new one. A coat of hot pink will really go with the general theme of my car at the momet:(

Good work:thumbsup:

What's wrong with it NOW?

Nice work pred :P

Its gay thats all:(

Whats is the figure re-asthma, one in 3 kids has it or something.

I tell you my car is so spoilt its starting to think its farking human, it now wheezes and puffs like a bloody asthmatic...sheesh its not like i havent been giving it enough exercise the last few weeks:)

not sure about the bottom strap, it seems to push the latch up into place, otherwise it flops around and just bends down when its supposed to be "latching". Intercooler is next week :D, so we'll see how that effects things.

I am not too sure whether GTR headlights are any difference, there is about a fingers gap inbetween bonnet and lights, but its not really noticeable, and the rubber from the bonnet fills the gap. Like Bl4cK32 says, there is the tabs there to fit a grille.

I think the hole looks cool..

It looks ok in the photo, because its dark, but during bright light you can see the latch and the radiator.. looks a bit messy. I have seen an aftermarket grille which is like a hole with the mesh and that is really cool, but have seen it on about 2 cars out of 1000's of r32's I have probably seen over the years. Maybe i'll try and get one from japan.

anyhow, this isn't a show car.. I don't want it to look completely pox :P but I'm not going to fuss over every little thing. Did that with last car, bored of that.

I have seen an aftermarket grille which is like a hole with the mesh and that is really cool, but have seen it on about 2 cars out of 1000's of r32's I have probably seen over the years. Maybe i'll try and get one from japan.

group buy anyone? :P

Its gay thats all:(  

Whats is the figure re-asthma, one in 3 kids has it or something.

I tell you my car is so spoilt its starting to think its farking human, it now wheezes and puffs like a bloody asthmatic...sheesh its not like i havent been giving it enough exercise the last few weeks:)

asthma affects 10-12% of adults and children (including R32's)

:D

You need GTR headlights to fit the grille... Or you can do the dodgy with some cable ties..

we have a saying:

"If it can't be cable tied, it can't be mounted"

works alongside:

"if it can't be welded, it can't be fixed"

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...