Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I think that this depends on what part of melbourne your talking about. Stay out of knox. One memeber from here was from WA with his WA registered car and WA license, mr TMU pulls him over and immideatly recognises that his 32gtst has an RB25 inside. The driver copped a red sticker because he had P plates and was over the power/weight ratio

The person who copped it was me. I had a R32 with a RB25DET.

The car was WA regoed and all, but they still recognised it and checked the engine block number and did me for no engineering.

I wouldnt do it, you cant fool them. If ur prepared to fork out a couple of grand go ahead and get the thing engineered. They will still **** u over in some way though with conversions.

I still don't know what the big deal with the crack down on engineering at the moment.. how many accidents have taken place where the cause of the car has been anything other than driver error in a modified car?

oh hum

If you have insurance, full comp.

And your car is butchered. If they check... bye bye insurance

Also, if you get canaried at any stage. A normal RWC place will check it.

If it dont match they wont pass you for a RWC and then you'll never get it engineered in time

I have *heard* that RB20, RB25 and RB26 cam covers are interchangable... so you might want to find yourself a nice set of second hand RB20 cam covers with a nice big "RB20" on the timing belt cover :O save the hassles. I would imagine they wouldn't bother checking the engine number if it had a RB20 cam cover.

The RB20/26 covers wouldn't fit on the RB25 unless you removed the VVT, which is half the appeal of the 25 to me (the extra 0.5L doesn't hurt either).

I was actually just thinking that there was an extra lump on the RB25 timing cover on the inlet side when I wrote that... LOL

But you could go the exposed cam wheel look with RB20 covers and an ECCS sticker on the plenum... sorted :D

Yeah, but how starionturbo was spotted was the plenum. well thats what he said in his post. The officer spotted it stright away eventhough he had the cam cover on and the big RB20 on the front.

Crap! just read that too! oops.

Are the plenums THAT different looking from the top?

I was actually just thinking that there was an extra lump on the RB25 timing cover on the inlet side when I wrote that... LOL

But you could go the exposed cam wheel look with RB20 covers and an ECCS sticker on the plenum... sorted :D

haha yeah, I actually ran the exposed cam wheel for a while. It's a good look :P

BTW That cop sure must have known his engines if he picked it from the plenum. I'd be fooled by the ECCS sticker :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...