Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

wanlis are ok in the dry, but in the wet r shocking....

overall they are crap like nankgas

all the major brands tyres companies make good quality tyres and they all have their cheaper crap.

as stated above, you pay for wat you get.

...my 2 cents... :rolleyes:

"You get what you pay for" - That is the general impression that everyone has, but it only applies to a certain extent... I know of tyres that I have paid big money for (not using brand names as it will just look like Im bagging another product) that have not provided anywhere near the kind of performance that I wanted, then gone on to other tyes (such as Federal's) that have proven to provide more dry traction, wet control, mileage and comfort than the bigger brands at a much more reasonable price.

I understand that there are some very inexpensive brands flooding the market these days and it pays to do some research and ask around about what people use and like - that is why this thread is a great idea.

In a certain way you DO get what you pay for, but at the other end of the scale you can spend WAY to much on tyres that will only do what some mid market "cheaper" tyres will also do.

Its a matter of opinion. ;)

I agree Mick. You do get what you pay for to some extent (don't expect $200 tyres to out perform $500 tyres) but the less know brands need to make better tyres at cheaper prices than the big brands.

the best street tyres I've used were dunlop's top of the line Sp9000 sport (about 500 a corner) but the falken fk452 were close behind at half the price. Look to the performance tyres within a second tier brand for the best price/performance....falken/federal/toyo are all good choices.

But for god sake don't buy a performance car like a skyline and then put real cheap tyres on it. they will ruin the whole experience in a flash.

has anyone used Federal 595 RS the semi slicks?

im not much of a tyre guy but would these performa tad better than a normal say Federal 595

maybe not in the wet, but at least in the dry?

anyone had experiences with them

and i can get a set of 4) 225 45 r17 for about $900

any good?

I use the 595RS every now and then for the street but mainly for the track, there are also a LOT of members using the RS for hillclimb and track events in the ACT forum, you should ask around in there.

Basically the 595 is a street tyre and not really meant for track use, however it will give you a bit of fun for a while, just dont expect to put down your best times.

595's are excellent for drift though, we have had multiple drifters tell us that they are one of the best tyres to drift on.

595RS is 2 steps up from the 595 in regards to track use, the RS has a much softer tread compound and has a much stiffer tread face due to a "low void ratio", this makes for a better footprint on the road while under hard braking, cornering, acceleration.

The RS is much much better for dry traction than the 595 but is a bit of a compromise in the wet (as any semi-slick is), if youre planning on using the RS as a street tyre you probably wont get the most out of them though (even though they have heaps of grip) as they work the best when they're hot (about 60 - 70 degrees).

Have a look at - www.federaltyres.com.au, www.federaltire.com.tw or www.federaltire.com for more info.

I hope that helps :/

cheers thanks heaps mick :(

Anyway ill get to catch up with you soon anyway cause ill be coming back up to Canberra soon

so ill tag along to a friday night cruise with youse and have a chat ;)

There is a thread somewhere in the vic section for the Donellan's prices for Re55s - they are the cheapest I've seen even if you add delivery to Sydney for me

Cheers Duncan. Did a search and found it. How about Toyo Semi slicks?

hmmmm.....i bought my gtr with bridgestone so3 285/30/18 on it, car tracks badly, quite dangerous to drive......hold your breath, these tyres cost NZ$1060 each........so selling them and going for some toyo t1r sound like the go....ha

How is this for a score.

I recently bought a set of 19" inch Rays SF Challenge off a vendor on another forum from Yahoo JP. The wheels were auctioned with a set of B'Stones S-03's.

When they got here I get a call saying they came with no tyres. The guy says he'll see what he has when I go and pick them up or I can have some $$'s off the price.

I get there and you should have seen the smile on my face when he hands over a set Michellin pilot sport, PS2's wit 95% tread. These are OEM on Zonda's and in 275/35/19 push $900 a corner (so I've been told). Full credit to the vendor, as he didn't have to do this but wanted too.

These are the best tyres by far that i have ever driven on.

Dry Grip 10 (V35 struggles to break traction on a warm day)

Wet Grip 8-9

Ride - very silent and very smooth

Still waiting for feedback on the Hankook H424's.

The Hankook catalogue descibes the 424 was designed for V8's with a high silica content for superior grip.

Anyone fitted these ?

A comparison to the K104's would be good.

Cheers.

Edited by conan7772

I have'nt tried many, but mainly because I'm poor and can't afford $500 a corner.

I had Bridgestone Potenza G3 on my old wheels (came with the rims). Tried it on track, wasn't too bad, but I found it shocking in the wet.

Now I have a set of second hand Dunlop Sp3000 (got for next to nothing) or what ever that came out of the police cars. I was quite surprised that how well it performed at OP, considering it only had 50% thread left AND I had it on the front wheels AND I was pushing it soo hard, not once did it understeer. VERY plesantly surprised.

I have Toyo Teo I think, at the rear. Brand new, and the cheapest out of the Toyo range. Can't say much, as it is the rear wheel, all of them have broken traction at some point or another but I found it to be ok.

I had Bridgestone Potenza G3 on my old wheels (came with the rims). Tried it on track, wasn't too bad, but I found it shocking in the wet.

Interesting. I had GIII's on the front of my R31 and thought the grip was quite good. However, I had Falken 326's on the rear and a locked diff so I guess it's all relative :laughing-smiley-014:

had bridgestone potenza g3's 255 40 r17 and when i went to replace 2 the price blew me away so i asked the guy who ive dealt with for years what else will do the job.. i want a good quality tire but im not paying that!. he directed me to maxxis victra ma z1 in the same size.... they are better in the wet and just as good in the dry and alot cheaper. tread design is quiet and realy expells water. extremely soft compound but still seem to be wearing nicely.. hardly done any kms on them as yet cos no liscence :) but when the mates drive it down to victor harbour they are faultess tires!

best normal size car tire ive ever had on a 15 inch rim were parelli p6000 oh man did they grip only 215's and grip better than my cheap 235's r18's on the wagon.

just my experiences hope ive been of some benafit to someone

cheers

For a daily driver these are pretty good for the buck.

Kumho Ecsta Supra 712, 275/40/17 =$109USD Ea. (just to give an idea about pricing)

Falken FK451... good dry grip and good wet grip but tread life is poor IMO. And once the tread starts wearing the wet grip is terrible! It's like ice skating with your car if you go 80+kmh.

I'm looking to get either the Good Year Eagle F1 GS D3 or Toyo's T1to fit my 19's... unless I find something better in that price range (around $250 per corner).. any suggestions? :banana:

Edited by chak8080

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Get an inspection camera up there. 
    • Yeah, but look at the margin in viscosity between the 40 and the 60 at 125°C. It is not very large. It is the difference between 7 and 11 cP. Compare that to the viscosity at only 90°C. The viscosity axis is logarithmic. The numbers at 90 are ~15 and ~35. That is about half for the 40 wt oil and <half for the 60. You give up viscosity EXPONENTIALLY as temperature rises. Literally. That is why I declare thicker oil to be a bandaid, and a brittle one at that. Keep the oil temperature under about 110°C and you should be better off.   Having said all of that, which remains true as a general principle, if you have indeed lost enough oil from the sump that the pump was seeing slightly aerated oil, then all bets are off. That would of course cause oil pressure to collapse. And 35 psi is a collapse given what you were doing to the engine. Especially if the oil was that hot and viscosity had also collapsed. And I would put money on rod or main bearings being the source of the any noise that registered as knock. Hydraulic lifters should be able to cope with the hotter oil and lower pressure enough to prvent too much high frequency noise, although I am willing to admit it could be the source.
    • Thanks for the reply mate. Well I really hope its a hose then not engine out job
    • But.... the reason I want to run a 60 weight is so at 125C it has the same viscosity as a 40 weight at 100C. That's the whole reason. If the viscosity changes that much to drop oil pressure from 73psi to 36psi then that's another reason I should be running an oil that mimics the 40 weight at 100C. I have datalogs from the dyno with the oil pressure hitting 73psi at full throttle/high RPM. At the dyno the oil temp was around 100-105C. The pump has a 70psi internal relief spring. It will never go/can't go above 70psi. The GM recommendation of 6psi per 1000rpm is well under that... The oil sensor for logging in LS's is at the valley plate at the back of  the block/rear of where the heads are near the firewall. It's also where the knock sensors are which are notable for 'false knock'. I'm hoping I just didn't have enough oil up top causing some chatter instead of rods being sad (big hopium/copium I know) LS's definitely heat up the oil more than RB's do, the stock vettes for example will hit 300F(150C) in a lap or two and happily track for years and years. This is the same oil cooler that I had when I was in RB land, being the Setrab 25 row oil cooler HEL thing. I did think about putting a fan in there to pull air out more, though I don't know if that will actually help in huge load situations with lots of speed. I think when I had the auto cooler. The leak is where the block runs to the oil cooler lines, the OEM/Dash oil pressure sender is connected at that junction and is what broke. I'm actually quite curious to see how much oil in total capacity is actually left in the engine. As it currently stands I'm waiting on that bush to adapt the sender to it. The sump is still full (?) of oil and the lines and accusump have been drained, but the filter and block are off. I suspect there's maybe less than 1/2 the total capacity there should be in there. I have noticed in the past that topping up oil has improved oil pressure, as reported by the dash sensor. This is all extremely sketchy hence wanting to get it sorted out lol.
×
×
  • Create New...