Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Not many tho  :thumbsup:
No, but you just have to be in the right place at the right time.

Someone going overseas and needing to sell 'or else' ... or someone upgrading to an R34GTR and needing the cash to pay off the R34GTR or start modding it, it's been done here.

DAMN! some nice 32's in here, makes me remember why I bought mine all over

Nice widebody hiro, love the silvers makes me wish I bought one now :(

gunmetal had to be the most boring colour yet it seemed to be the most popular

Here's mine

Right%20side%20front%20view%201st%20day%20home.JPG

I think I have the same sideskirts as black one posted earlier

Sorry for the lack of nice photo's, thats a few reasons

1 - Work too much

2 - really crappy photographer

3 - car gets used everyday, so not really ever that clean

YOU NEED CONVINCING??? mate just look at all the fine examples posted previously, then theres always price, the less you spend on buying it, the more you can spend on mods :(

mark

I think I have the same sideskirts as black one posted earlier

Sorry for the lack of nice photo's, thats a few reasons

1 - Work too much

2 - really crappy photographer

3 - car gets used everyday, so not really ever that clean

YOU NEED CONVINCING??? mate just look at all the fine examples posted previously, then theres always price, the less you spend on buying it, the more you can spend on mods :(

mark

They're nismo style side skirts :( I want a pair.

what's with the matt bonnet?

Ewww...that Black ones horny lookin!

Morgs is yours Green? If so I was lookin at buying a Green one looked sweet but did'nt think it was factory colour and did'nt want to take chance on resprayed car......although ended up with one anyway!

what's with the matt bonnet?

Looks like a clear coat has not been applied / rubbed back and Buffed yet....?

From the pic it does not appear to have a clear coat applied, you can check with a bit of cut n Polish, if it comes off on the rag grey then no clear coat...if no colour on the rag then it has a clear coat and needs to be cut back.

If it does have a clear coat, try (on a small patch) getting some 1200 wet n dry and with a hose pipe trickling over it rub in circular motion until you can see your face in it (Mirror), then when dry polish with cutting compound, should come up looking like the rest of your car, if so continue on with rest of bonnet :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...