Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I 'think' the GTR console uses a wierd size gauges. Somehting like 44mm or something. The smallest I know of is 52mm, so you might have problems finding gauges to actually fit (that's if your going to replace them.

Would look nice though.

A bloke on SDU made up a 3 x 52mm holder that sits under the stereo and it looked great. It was a very tight sqeeze to get all three to fit, and he even andled them towards the driver.

Anyone keen to make them up :P :bahaha:

  • 16 years later...

Hi guys, sorry to bump such an old thread, I’ve got the car at the auto elec at the minute for a ton of little jobs one of which is obviously fitting some r32 gtr triple gauges in my r32 gtst, I’m hoping to hear from someone who’s done it or an electrician/ mechanic 

in terms of oil temp have you drilled the sump, used a simp plug or using an oil filter sandwich plate? Any links to anything you can purchase off the shelf etc

the boost gauge have people just tapped into the existing manifold pressure sensor on the fire wall? Added an additional similar manifold pressure sensor ? 

Thankyou very much Guys or girls 

I can't see the point of using the GTR gauges. Is one of them not a torque gauge for the AWD?

Just get a triple gauge plate and fit 3 gauges of your choice - boost, oil pressure and water temp.

Each gauge should come with its own fittings or you just follow the instructions. You may be able to T off the oil pressure warning switch for the pressure.

These are available on Ebay -

Triple Gauge Holder Din Bracket 3 x 52mm or 2 1/16

or you may be able to adapt the GTR holder if you have one.

R32 GTR torque gauge is in the main cluster, displacing the GTSt's boost gauge to the triple cluster in the console.

So, not pointless, but stupid, because why have 2x Nissan boost gauges (the original in the dash and the GTR one in the console) when you can have a better boost gauge? And while doing what everyone else has recommended (aftermarket gauges), why not put in something useful? Like EGT? Who the hell needs a bloody voltmeter?

Hey guys Thankyou for your feedback it’s just the look I want to go for, I understand having 2 boost gauges is abit of waste and a volt meter gauge is old school but as I said that’s the look I’m going for? So again does anyone have any experience or answers to my questions 2 posts up? 

The only obvious answer to "it's just for looks" is to not bother to hook them up to anything except the lighting circuit.

If you have to hook the oil pressure gauge up....then a sandwich plate is the only option that makes sense.

And obviously the boost gauge is driven the boost sensor. The only question is....will hooking two gauges up to the same sensor cause them both to read wrong? Try it and let us know? But wait! How will you know?

You could always put in a redundant second boost sensor to go with your redundant second gauge.

Do

May I suggest looking in to VDO gauges. I took this route a few years ago with my old 32 GTS-t as I always wanted a stock OEM look. (I hate the space ship bright light cheap gauges)

VDO are a quality brand and easy to find. Sensors come with the gauge, you'll just need to pick up a single din slot 52mm gauge holder (Anywhere online/ebay) and wire you're selected gauges in accordinly. 

From memory the stock gtr 3 gauge cluster harness runs with the dash loom. Massive pain in the ass to disect and install in to 32 GTS-t considering volt and another boost gauge would be pretty useless. 

 NgsaDJxC.thumb.jpeg.422a2b7d3e09884815f02de797fab39e.jpeg

  • Like 3

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...