Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

guys

I had a set of non-turbulence (HKS style) dumps made up by custom exhaust here in Brisbane, used mild steel and had them HPC coated - and they work great (20+AWKW extra)

Already had custom fronts @ 3" - so that was fine

I agree - the std dumps on the R32 GTRs are AVERAGE at best

IMHO - save your pennies - do it once and do it right

changing dumps is not an easy exercise from what I've seen - (almost as much to fit them as it is to buy them) I had mine done while the engine was out - easy :rolleyes:

  • Replies 72
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

They certainly exist:  ARC makes a titanium front pipe, and these ones are constantly for sale on Yahoo JP.  Only problem is none of the titanium ones seem to be the split design.

I haven't come across titanium dumps, however.

Edit:  I would imagine that titanium dumps would cost a fortune given the thickness of metal required.

Lucien

my oh my. those titanium front pipes look very tasty, but at around $1000 in japan they are far from cheap. I will still be going the trust set-up when I can be farked. from the results I've seen with them they appear to be the best set for the money.

my oh my. those titanium front pipes look very tasty, but at around $1000 in japan they are far from cheap. I will still be going the trust set-up when I can be farked. from the results I've seen with them they appear to be the best set for the money.

Do it. go on do it. you know you want to :rolleyes:

my oh my. those titanium front pipes look very tasty, but at around $1000 in japan they are far from cheap. I will still be going the trust set-up when I can be farked. from the results I've seen with them they appear to be the best set for the money.

If you think that's expensive, you should check out the proper ARC items (the Yahoo ones look like knockoffs) -- up to ~A$2,000:

http://www.arcinter.co.jp/titan.html :D As for "do it once, do it right", the problem is I have a noticable leak that needs fixing soon. It won't be a good 6+ months till I get around to the Trust/Greddy units so waiting is not the preferred option.

PSI_GTSII: I'd love to know too, perhaps Nick or someone from UAS can shed some light on this. My guess is you would need the front pipes off (obviously) and perhaps the oil return pipes. I also expect you would need access from the top: probably the removal of air pipes and heatshields??

Cheers,

Lucien.

It won't be a good 6+ months till I get around to the Trust/Greddy units so waiting is not the preferred option.

go for option 3. buy the trust dump/fronts now and worry about the cost later. then you can fit them and tell me how hard it is to do, and what difference they made :D

if you are deffo goind to upgrade later then just buy some stock front pipes. I'll sell you mine for $250 :)

go for option 3. buy the trust dump/fronts now and worry about the cost later. then you can fit them and tell me how hard it is to do, and what difference they made :)

if you are deffo goind to upgrade later then just buy some stock front pipes. I'll sell you mine for $250 :)

I would buy them, but I am too poor plus I will be quitting work in a month or two until my honours thesis is done, so I have to save for other things :D

$250... you sure you don't want to make that $1100 so you can buy the trusts :)

LW.

Ok heres my Noob question for the day.... :D

Would this item below be all thats required to replace my Standard Dumps and Front Pipe?

http://www.nengun.com/catalogue/product/85

Would it bolt up to standard turbos for now, and then bolt up to say a pair of 2530's or GT-SSs that I may fit infuture..?

Ok heres my Noob question for the day.... :D

Would this item below be all thats required to replace my Standard Dumps and Front Pipe?  

http://www.nengun.com/catalogue/product/85

Would it bolt up to standard turbos for now, and then bolt up to say a pair of 2530's or GT-SSs that I may fit infuture..?

The page you requested Catalogue no longer exists, is not available or has been moved.

Please login or create an account and search the product catalogue for your request.

Redirecting you to the index page in 5 seconds.

Argghh...crap :D

Hows this:

nengun-product-207.jpg

If anyone has delt with the HKS Twin Extention kit (BNR32,BCNR33, BNR34 Part No 1418-RN005) then you will know how good the qualitly is. Hard Core steel built to withstand the harshest punishments from those HKS Turbos. Unlike the HKS Extention kit which are two small pipes that bolts onto the turbos then they are attached to the frontpipe which is made from a thinner metal, these Greedy Extentions pipes start where the HKS pipes finish and continue all the way to the cat still using the high density steel as HKS does. Trust Has tested these Extention pipes to handle over 700PS.

Product Code Price Delivered *

11920300 AU $ 893.65

AU $ 1,112.55

Extention Front Pipes 80mm

Compatible with Nissan - Skyline R32 GTR - BNR32

Richard: You remind me of the lawnmower man :(

PSI_GTSII: Yes, those are the Trust/Greddy front extension pipes everyone is drooling over (and that Ronin has). They replace both the dump and the front pipe. A very similar setup is made by CES Racing.

Ronin 09: Its so confusing. They are branded as Greddy on the Trust website :D

CameronBNR32: Link?

Lucien.

I have just finished installing a set of Competition dump pipes from CES to my car. With no other changes, I would honeslty say the turbos kick in almost 1000rpm earlier giving a much needed midrange boot. The whole car seems to breathe better and you don't have to give it that little extra to get the good part of the power band.

Apart from these (dump pipes and front pipes) I am only running pods and Nismo cat back exhaust and larger intercooler. I am still running the standard boost! The car really feels like it wants that extra boost now, and is going to fly when it gets it!

These pipes were a great investment for my car and I highly recommend to anyone else the the CES product is the goods!

Ronin 09:  Its so confusing.  They are branded as Greddy on the Trust website :D

yep trust/greddy... just choose a name dammit!! I don't know why, but I think Trust does all the mechanical engine stuff, and Greddy does all the electronic / more 'bling' stuff - turbo timers, gauges, etc etc

edit; actually I have no idea how it is branded...

trust appears to be the head coy, with sub brands greddy, grex, gracer??

I think they look fine. I don't see a big issue with front pipes - they are simple in design and the difference in flow between one and another is marginal.

Whereas I think that the design of the short dump is more important

2c

I don't see a big issue with front pipes - they are simple in design and the difference in flow between one and another is marginal

Could'nt agree more which is why I may just get my local exhaust shop to knock the front pipe up.

$820 for pair coated dumps and $500 (approx) for the front pipe

So the HKS /Trust...whatever ones from Nengun are a fair bit cheaper then...!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
×
×
  • Create New...