Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just wondering who everybody is insured with.

comprehensive or 3rd party.

How much theyre paying.

And how old you are?..

im thinking bout getting an r33 sii n/a and had a quick look at nrma online quoting tool...apparently they dont insure guys for skylines till they have atleast 10 years experience behind the wheel...its stupid really...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/76409-who-are-you-insured-with/
Share on other sites

* I pay $800 Third Party Fire + Theft through Just Cars

* Maximum payout if car not recovered from theft or fire is $5000

* Lightly Modded - don't seem to be too fussed with aftermarket parts on cars

* 19 Years old in a DR30

Comprehensive insurance - R33 GTS-T

Just Cars

60% NCB

Loss of license last year due to speeding

A few basic mods

$20k value

$2080 per year.

On a side note, I looked around at S14As before Skylines... and one of them would have cost me $3560 per year... hence why I went the skyline :D

24

Just Car

R32 GTS-T

Mods: RB25DET, R33 gearbox/diffs, gtr body kit, custom paint, 18 inch wheels, full exhaust, custom intercooler

50% NCB

$1823 Full Comp

My old R33 was with just car, fully stock cept for front and rear bars, and it was $2654 full comp :)

24

R32 GTST 4 Dr

Standard except Zorst/wheels

$808 3rd party property fire and theft @ just cars

Lifetime maximum NCB.

No At fault accidents or license cancelations. I had one not at fault accident (chick rear ended me at round about)

I wanted comprehensive, but cheapest I got was $1800 with the maximum NCB at famouscarinsurance. Just Cars wanted $2700 with the maximum NCB. Neither would insure for more than $10,000 as that is the market value (says them)

I tried across 4 months and the above is my best offers, I had a lot worse from the same campanies.

They were aware that it was mostly a weekend driver, not a daily driver. It is garaged at all other times. I am not in a high risk area (country...about 40 mins from newcastle)

I will try again once I am 25.

Oh, and it took me about 5 phonecalls to Just Cars to get someone that would agree that a 1989 R32 existed. Everyone else said they didnt start till 1990. I had them telling me about "we are import specialists, and they did not start until 1990...if it is a 1989 model it is an R31" The way I got it done was I eventually got a girl, I guess she was new, or didn't have the knowledge to argue it, so she went to her boss or whatever. The other times were guys that obivously knew everything.

Insured with Famous

R32 GTSt for $14000

Full comp $1400 with 10 or 20% NCB

I have to park off the street at work & while within 500m of my house but neither have really been a problem for the 2 years I've been with them.

Famous Classic

1998 R33 GTS-t

50% No claim (originally valued it at $28 but i doubt that now)

Wheels and exhaust about it for mods

$1700 (but I'm over 30)

What's with "agreed value or market value, which ever is the lesser"

I hate that clause !

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...