Jump to content
SAU Community

What's my car worth?

taynewguy

By taynewguy,
in Western Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

taynewguy Community Regular

taynewguy

Posted
Posted

OK guys I just want some opinions on what my car is worth i.e what I will realistically get for it IF i decide to sell it.

It will be a regretful sale but I have all my money tied up in it (I own it outright) and need some cash.

Anyway I have listed the details below (excuse any mistakes - I am a bit of a novice):

1993 S1 R33 GTST (Midnight Blue)

261rwhp @ 9psi (Hyperdrive Dyno)

Moderate mods and a safe tune

Not driven too hard as it is my daily driver

Regularly serviced and maintained by Hyperdrive

110,000km

Body kit (GTR look-a-like kit from Autoworx)

Tinted windows

17” Advan RG’s (silver)

Lowered King springs

Whiteline front sway bar

Turbo back exhaust

Pod filter

FMIC

Power FC (+hand controller)

Blitz EBC (dual solenoid)

Turbo Timer

Extreme heavy duty clutch

Pioneer Stereo system (worth about $1500)

Blue interior neons for that extra BLING factor.

Well that's all I can think of at the moment.

Your comments will be much appreciated.

Thanks in advance,

Tay

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/77151-whats-my-car-worth/
Share on other sites
[D4RKS1D3] Enthusiast

[D4RKS1D3]

Posted
Posted

The onli thing that could possibly hold you back on your sale would be the car year. other buyers might be more inclined to lean towards a series 2. I would value your car at about 16-19k with 17k bein the lowest offer i would accept if i was sellin the car. If you were to sell it i would definatley pull the sound system out as you lose a huge value on it when reselling. Unless ur keen to ditch it.

Paul

Kaido_RR Grand Master

Kaido_RR

Posted
Posted

17k for those mods you got to be joking?

seriously if you going to sell your import dont sell it on fourm cuz you will never get the best amount you can for your car, i say throw it in the autotrader if you where thinking of selling it for atlest 20k, i would be inclinde to say u could get 22k if you dont mind waiting

p.s dude ive seen ur car once at hyperdrive, and it looks sweet as very clean, :stupid: top skyline ;)

noise Mentor

noise

Posted
Posted
17k for those mods you got to be joking?

seriously if you going to sell your import dont sell it on fourm cuz you will never get the best amount you can for your car, i say throw it in the autotrader if you where thinking of selling it for atlest 20k, i would be inclinde to say u could get 22k if you dont mind waiting

you are dreaming :stupid:

I sold my last car a 97 series 2 with full exhaust manual and 70k/km on the clock for 20k.

who would want a 93 for 20... mods or not?

R32-GTS Mentor

R32-GTS

Posted
Posted
17k for those mods you got to be joking?

seriously if you going to sell your import dont sell it on fourm cuz you will never get the best amount you can for your car, i say throw it in the autotrader if you where thinking of selling it for atlest 20k, i would be inclinde to say u could get 22k if you dont mind waiting

p.s dude ive seen ur car once at hyperdrive, and it looks sweet as very clean, :stupid: top skyline ;)

Please get off the forums and stop talking shit on every thread .

Kaido_RR Grand Master

Kaido_RR

Posted
Posted
']dreamer michael trying to build up other peoples hopes  

17- 19k  

sounds like a clean car though

dreaming am i just check out the autotrader

MAKE/MODEL: Nissan Skyline GTS-T

YEAR: 1993

ODOMETER: 75,000kms

PRICE: $21,000.00

TRANSMISSION: manual

CONDITION: Excellent Condition

NISSAN SKYLINE GTS-T, 93, turbo, man, 4WS, 3" exh, gauges, timer, mech unmodified, full elecs, CD, alarm, full 400 GTR kit, immac showroom cond, first to see will buy 75,000kms, genuine buyers only, genuine reason for sale! $21,000 ono,

MAKE/MODEL: Nissan Skyline GTS-T Turbo man

YEAR: 1993

ODOMETER: 60,000kms

PRICE: $20,990.00

COLOUR: white

NEW IMPORT COMPLIED UNDER STRICT SEVS/RAWS SCHEME Stereo with New tyres, Carbon Canister, Cat Converter, Full safety check / fix, Service, etc..

gtrken Grand Master

gtrken

Posted
Posted
you are dreaming :D

I sold my last car a 97 series 2 with full exhaust manual and 70k/km on the clock for 20k.

who would want a 93 for 20... mods or not?

Depends on condition.

For example , we have a client who just purchased a 33GTR from the East for 26K.

After inspecting the car I would have rather bought a 32 GTR for the same money.

It is a dog..

To get back on track , Tay's car is a very nice example that looks mint with the RG wheels on it.

Has been regularly serviced by us and no expense has been spared to maintain it.

261rwhp is very good for a near stock one and shows the condition of the engine.

Cheers

ken

Steve Grand Master

Steve

Posted
Posted

Check autotrader and the like - see what people are paying. Better still, pm chowetime, she has just bought a skyline after looking at many cars, most of which she was dissapointed with - perhaps she can give you a feel for what is on the market and how much it goes for.

Remember, its pretty hard to say what a car is worth, until you have seen it yourself - there is alot of difference between a well modded, well maintained car in excellent condition (when I bought my 94, everyone who saw it and didnt know a thing about skyines thought it was a new car - it was that neat) and a car that hasnt been looked after. As Ken said, there are dogs out there :D

tdawg, my 94 with mild mods, in near immaculate condition and 80k/km sold for more than your 97 series 2 - either

you underpriced your car,

some people put more value on mods than you do, or

your car was in average condition even with the low kms

taynewguy Community Regular

taynewguy

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the feed back guys.

I consider my car pretty clean all round - the bodywork is good, interior is fine. Anyway I will do some more research (autotrader etc) and then make a decision on the sale.

I was hoping for about 19K, but it would seem I am probably 1-2k of the mark. And at that price I'd probably keep hold of it, we'll see.

Steve Grand Master

Steve

Posted
Posted

Tay, if worse comes to worse, remove some of the nicer fruit, sell the car and the bits seperate. Things like a power fc, fmic, ebc, will sell pretty quickly.

Oh, and fit a BOV if you want to sell it, or have one ready to throw on to seal a deal - alot of guys seem to think this is THE performance mod to have.

noise Mentor

noise

Posted
Posted
tdawg, my 94 with mild mods, in near immaculate condition and 80k/km sold for more than your 97 series 2 - either

you underpriced your car,  

some people put more value on mods than you do,  or  

your car was in average condition even with the low kms

The car looked an felt brand new, I just didnt feel like waiting 3 months to sell it. I priced it less then a car yard would and sold it quickly.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • GTSBoy
      Freddy Plenum vs Genuine options RB25

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • Murray_Calavera
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...