Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK guys I just want some opinions on what my car is worth i.e what I will realistically get for it IF i decide to sell it.

It will be a regretful sale but I have all my money tied up in it (I own it outright) and need some cash.

Anyway I have listed the details below (excuse any mistakes - I am a bit of a novice):

1993 S1 R33 GTST (Midnight Blue)

261rwhp @ 9psi (Hyperdrive Dyno)

Moderate mods and a safe tune

Not driven too hard as it is my daily driver

Regularly serviced and maintained by Hyperdrive

110,000km

Body kit (GTR look-a-like kit from Autoworx)

Tinted windows

17” Advan RG’s (silver)

Lowered King springs

Whiteline front sway bar

Turbo back exhaust

Pod filter

FMIC

Power FC (+hand controller)

Blitz EBC (dual solenoid)

Turbo Timer

Extreme heavy duty clutch

Pioneer Stereo system (worth about $1500)

Blue interior neons for that extra BLING factor.

Well that's all I can think of at the moment.

Your comments will be much appreciated.

Thanks in advance,

Tay

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/77151-whats-my-car-worth/
Share on other sites

The onli thing that could possibly hold you back on your sale would be the car year. other buyers might be more inclined to lean towards a series 2. I would value your car at about 16-19k with 17k bein the lowest offer i would accept if i was sellin the car. If you were to sell it i would definatley pull the sound system out as you lose a huge value on it when reselling. Unless ur keen to ditch it.

Paul

17k for those mods you got to be joking?

seriously if you going to sell your import dont sell it on fourm cuz you will never get the best amount you can for your car, i say throw it in the autotrader if you where thinking of selling it for atlest 20k, i would be inclinde to say u could get 22k if you dont mind waiting

p.s dude ive seen ur car once at hyperdrive, and it looks sweet as very clean, :stupid: top skyline ;)

17k for those mods you got to be joking?

seriously if you going to sell your import dont sell it on fourm cuz you will never get the best amount you can for your car, i say throw it in the autotrader if you where thinking of selling it for atlest 20k, i would be inclinde to say u could get 22k if you dont mind waiting

you are dreaming :stupid:

I sold my last car a 97 series 2 with full exhaust manual and 70k/km on the clock for 20k.

who would want a 93 for 20... mods or not?

17k for those mods you got to be joking?

seriously if you going to sell your import dont sell it on fourm cuz you will never get the best amount you can for your car, i say throw it in the autotrader if you where thinking of selling it for atlest 20k, i would be inclinde to say u could get 22k if you dont mind waiting

p.s dude ive seen ur car once at hyperdrive, and it looks sweet as very clean, :stupid: top skyline ;)

Please get off the forums and stop talking shit on every thread .

']dreamer michael trying to build up other peoples hopes  

17- 19k  

sounds like a clean car though

dreaming am i just check out the autotrader

MAKE/MODEL: Nissan Skyline GTS-T

YEAR: 1993

ODOMETER: 75,000kms

PRICE: $21,000.00

TRANSMISSION: manual

CONDITION: Excellent Condition

NISSAN SKYLINE GTS-T, 93, turbo, man, 4WS, 3" exh, gauges, timer, mech unmodified, full elecs, CD, alarm, full 400 GTR kit, immac showroom cond, first to see will buy 75,000kms, genuine buyers only, genuine reason for sale! $21,000 ono,

MAKE/MODEL: Nissan Skyline GTS-T Turbo man

YEAR: 1993

ODOMETER: 60,000kms

PRICE: $20,990.00

COLOUR: white

NEW IMPORT COMPLIED UNDER STRICT SEVS/RAWS SCHEME Stereo with New tyres, Carbon Canister, Cat Converter, Full safety check / fix, Service, etc..

you are dreaming :D

I sold my last car a 97 series 2 with full exhaust manual and 70k/km on the clock for 20k.

who would want a 93 for 20... mods or not?

Depends on condition.

For example , we have a client who just purchased a 33GTR from the East for 26K.

After inspecting the car I would have rather bought a 32 GTR for the same money.

It is a dog..

To get back on track , Tay's car is a very nice example that looks mint with the RG wheels on it.

Has been regularly serviced by us and no expense has been spared to maintain it.

261rwhp is very good for a near stock one and shows the condition of the engine.

Cheers

ken

Check autotrader and the like - see what people are paying. Better still, pm chowetime, she has just bought a skyline after looking at many cars, most of which she was dissapointed with - perhaps she can give you a feel for what is on the market and how much it goes for.

Remember, its pretty hard to say what a car is worth, until you have seen it yourself - there is alot of difference between a well modded, well maintained car in excellent condition (when I bought my 94, everyone who saw it and didnt know a thing about skyines thought it was a new car - it was that neat) and a car that hasnt been looked after. As Ken said, there are dogs out there :D

tdawg, my 94 with mild mods, in near immaculate condition and 80k/km sold for more than your 97 series 2 - either

you underpriced your car,

some people put more value on mods than you do, or

your car was in average condition even with the low kms

Thanks for the feed back guys.

I consider my car pretty clean all round - the bodywork is good, interior is fine. Anyway I will do some more research (autotrader etc) and then make a decision on the sale.

I was hoping for about 19K, but it would seem I am probably 1-2k of the mark. And at that price I'd probably keep hold of it, we'll see.

Tay, if worse comes to worse, remove some of the nicer fruit, sell the car and the bits seperate. Things like a power fc, fmic, ebc, will sell pretty quickly.

Oh, and fit a BOV if you want to sell it, or have one ready to throw on to seal a deal - alot of guys seem to think this is THE performance mod to have.

tdawg, my 94 with mild mods, in near immaculate condition and 80k/km sold for more than your 97 series 2 - either

you underpriced your car,  

some people put more value on mods than you do,  or  

your car was in average condition even with the low kms

The car looked an felt brand new, I just didnt feel like waiting 3 months to sell it. I priced it less then a car yard would and sold it quickly.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
    • OK, now we are ready to get started. You need to remove the air boxes on each side for clearance. The cover is straightforward, undo the clips on the top and lift the front cover out of the rest of the housing. If it is tight you can remove the air filters first. The rear section of the airbox is trickier. On each side you need to remove the Air flow meter wiring which is held to the airbox with a clip; you need to get behind the clip on 2 sides if you want to remove it without breaking it - unclip the harder side and pull on the clip with medium force, then unclip the easier side and it should pop out The airbox is held onto the intake hose with a spring clamp; you need to get a flat bladed screwdriver behind the spring on both sides and pop them outwards. When you have got them in the right unclipped place they will stay there and the airbox slips out pretty freely. Put a rag in the intake to prevent anything getting dropped in there, and also to prevent you seeing that the turbo seal is leaking oil (as they do). Then. The top of the radiator is held by a steel plate, it is secured by 2x10mm and 2x12mm headed bolts . Remove them and remove the plate Also grab the bushings that hold the radiator to the plate on each side so they are not lost!
    • Next, remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, both are held with a spring clamp. While you are under there, tackle the Auto Trans cooler lines.  Again both are held on with spring clamps, and as mentioned above you should cap them on the radiator side with an 8mm cap, and on the car side loop them with a length of 8mm pipe - this will stop you losing a dangerous amount of AT fluid during the rest of the job If you've been meaning to add a sender for AT trans temp, this is a great time to do it; put a sender fitting into the passenger side line as that is the inlet to the cooler/radiator.
    • Next you need to remove the intake duct (as with pretty much every job on these cars), it is a series of clips you gently remove with a flat bladed screwdriver. They do get brittle with time and can break, and I have not found a decent quality aftermarket one that fits (they are all too soft or flimsy and don't last either) but the nissan ones are a couple of bucks each (ouch).  Once the clips are off (either 8 or 10, I didn't check) you lift the intake duct out and will see the reservoirs Undo the line into the radiator side cap (some bent needle nosed piers are awesome for spring clamps) and then remove the 4x 10m nuts that hold both in place.  I didn't get these pics, but remove the line under the radiator reservoir (spring clamp again) then remove that reservoir. Then you can get at the intake reservoir, same thing, spring clamp underneath then remove it. BTW This is a great time to put in a larger (+70%) combined reservoir that AMS makes..... https://www.amsperformance.com/product/q50-q60-red-alpha-coolant-expansion-tank/ They also make an Infiniti branded and part# version if that is your thing
×
×
  • Create New...