Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Originally posted by JiMiH

Does it hurt the engine/gearbox/clutch/anything?

Cheers! :(

Yes, yes , yes and yes unless you are running a sequential boxed, fullshift rev cut Motec or Autronic then don't try it.

Ken

It is possible to do, by matching revs, but the likelyhood of getting it right is slim. You can do this with a dogbox arrangement as there are no synchros.

The other option is to have your foot flat to the boards, clutch in, change gear, clutch out. If you keep your foot hard on the accelerator then you won't loose as much revs as normal shifting. This has the negative effect of loading up the clutch and gearbox.

In general you won't make sufficient time gains to make this worthwhile, as the risk of damaging some part increases.

See'ya :burnout:

Originally posted by GTS-t VSPEC

The other option is to have your foot flat to the boards, clutch in, change gear, clutch out. If you keep your foot hard on the accelerator then you won't loose as much revs as normal shifting. This has the negative effect of loading up the clutch and gearbox.

ahh right this is actually what I was reffering to :D

i thought this was called flat shifting!

my bad!

so does this damage the clutch and gearbox when you load it up?

most comps have a setting

you keep your foot burried it cuts ignition timming but not the fuel

pop the clutch and boom lots of zorst flame but a very quick spool of turbo casu of excess fuel

still very harsh on you clutch and box

worth it for the flames if you have a shtter of a car

pete

JiMiH,

I think flat shifting is not using the clutch, and power shifting is not lifing your foot from the accelerator. But it could be the other way round.

I use power shifting while at the drags, it provides more punch between gears and keeps the revs higher in the power band. I do have a twin-plate clutch, so I think both it and the box can handle it fine.

It's worth giving a go, might improve times slightly.

See'ya:burnout:

jimih i wouldnt do it unless .1 of a second is important enough to you to justify the cost. It is not good for the box or clutch. Superbikes/GP Bikes have a special button to do this, but a bikes gearbox is different. V8 Supercars have a gearbox that can cop it. If you can afford to go through gearboxes then go crazy.

Agreed - it's not worth it. One thing I do occasionally is to blip the throttle while the clutch is on the floor. Keeps the revs up without the sudden shock through the driveline.

I've always referred to flat shifting as holding your foot flat to the boards (hence the term 'flat') and changing gears as normal. The other method you refer to I've always called 'clutchless shifting'. This may or may not be the correct terminology but it's the terminology I've always used.

I would NOT bother with clutchless shifting either, unless you have a constant mesh/sequential gearbox in your car, or you're on a bike.

If your car is primarily a road car, treat it as such... just drive it like a much faster version of how you drive on the streets.

  • 2 weeks later...

I've always flat changed but the rev's don't go higher as they don't have time. :)

I learnt in a Mild TE 250 Cortina 4 speed.

I soon learnt how to pull out the gearbox and replace syncro's and especially select forks.

VL 5 speed 3ltr.. Started crunching second after only a few quick changes.

The V8 T5 Commodore gearbox didn't like it, she started to pop out of gears and crunch second and third.

Skyline well so far so good. No crunches, just an input shaft bearing whine that was there from the start but is now getting worse.

Originally posted by gtrken

unless you are running a sequential boxed, fullshift rev cut Motec or Autronic then don't try it.

Or a T-SPORT Flat-Shift can do the full shift rev cut what ECU you have. $280. Can someone please try one of these, so I can find out if they are worth the free plugs I keep giving them?

Originally posted by Revhead

I've always referred to flat shifting as holding your foot flat to the boards (hence the term 'flat') and changing gears as normal.  The other method you refer to I've always called 'clutchless shifting'.  This may or may not be the correct terminology but it's the terminology I've always used.

Yeah I was referring to the bit that you reffered to as flat shifting.

Or as GTS-t VPSEC says, Power shifting.

Cheers guys.

On the web page they suggest setting it about 2000revs below redline......that maybe ok for gearchanging ....but I don't fancy dropping the clutch at 5700 on the start line!!! especially with around 17psi boost

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
    • When you pulled it off, there is no signs of blown head gasket? Is it possible you have some other issues going on? Possible cracked blocked? Or do you think it's straight up lifting the head? Did you check what the head was torqued to before pulling it down (To see if possibly they're stretching, or starting to break threads out etc)?
    • Seems like a decent result for a modded JZX110. They are bulky in comparison to the 100 and 90 models (which I'd prefer myself) but they are getting very few and far between here in JP these days. Thanks for the detailed review and the import process into the UK. I also have a car which I'm hoping to export from Japan at some stage so it's good to know if someone from the UK was interested in it. By the way the corrosion underneath is par for the course for cars which were located in/near the mountains or along the Japan sea coastline. They get huge amounts of snow every winter and the sodium chloride is used on the roads. Many cars have some kind of rubber like treatment underneath but they tend to limit it to the wheel arches underbody and fuel tank. Suspension arms and sub-frames will have similar corrosion to your JZX110 which is a common sight. See it all the time and car dealers here generally don't even mention it unless asked.
    • If the sound goes away when you clutch in, the 1.5/2 way diffs are just shit, and you are a normal person. The diff is likely "fine" but driving at anything under 30kmh is a violent horrible experience. It would be exaggerated with solid diff bushings and subframe bushings if you have those.
×
×
  • Create New...