Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

We have a single plate, and are producing 467rwkw...never been a problem...and its copped a fair bit of punishment too.....its a JIM BERRY special.

yeah, but a Jim Berry certainly isnt the run of the mill clutch by any means of the word.

His twins hold 600kw+ no worries ;)

everything has its price

IMO - go for something rebuildable.

Remember if you have one plate, two is going to cost more.

Im running an OS Twin, awesome clutch ive never had problems with. It was almost shagged and still gripped without issue.

Rebuild is $1500 (plates themselves around around the $600 mark give or take)

You'd think a single would be cheaper, but how long does it last?

R31Nismoid: That was one of my initial concerns and part of the reason why I posted this topic.

I do not want to install a single plate and have it die on me in a year.....then get a rebuild when getting a twin plate in the first place would have been cheaper.

But judging from the response I have got from this thread, I think a single plate would be sufficient enough for me.

i have an OS Giken twin plate in my car, but it's the hard core solid centre one, not the sprung centre. it certainly cops the punishment I dish out, but it's a bit of a bitch for city driving, and it rattles when your foot is on the clutch (makes people think your car is broken). Nick (blitz) has just installed a nismo twin into his GTR. I dunno if he's given it much punishment yet, but it sure seems a fair bit more civilised than my OS Giken one. can't fault the performance of mine though. plenty of 7000rpm launches (in both RWD and AWD), a few track days and no dramas. :D

Well I am getting a Jim Berry single! once that is in the car will be tuned again for 1.4 BAR and I'm sure to see 300awkw and from all reports, Jim's clutch will do this in its sleep....

for what its worth, my understanding is that a single has more meat on it that say a twin or tripple, being that it is still in the same space the single would take up... so I would say a good single will outlast a twin in most cases.... which seems to be backed up with the time frame most of jims clutches last over twins... and they seem to be half the price of a decent twin too :D:):):);)

oh and I think I must hold a world record!!! (Jim on and off the phone with clutch info and spec's etc in 6 mins 34 sec!!!!)

:)

Well I am getting a Jim Berry single! once that is in the car will be tuned again for 1.4 BAR and I'm sure to see 300awkw and from all reports, Jim's clutch will do this in its sleep....

for what its worth, my understanding is that a single has more meat on it that say a twin or tripple, being that it is still in the same space the single would take up... so I would say a good single will outlast a twin in most cases.... which seems to be backed up with the time frame most of jims clutches last over twins... and they seem to be half the price of a decent twin too :(:):):):)

oh and I think I must hold a world record!!! (Jim on and off the phone with clutch info and spec's etc in 6 mins 34 sec!!!!)

;)

Tell 'em the price sun?:(

but it's a bit of a bitch for city driving, and it rattles when your foot is on the clutch (makes people think your car is broken).

my os giken clutch rattles as well. Do you know if this is normal, as its quite loud.

my os giken clutch rattles as well. Do you know if this is normal, as its quite loud.

We have 3 X OS Giken multiplate clutches, 1 X twin plate in the GTST and 2 X triple plates in the GTR's. They all rattle when not under load, however they are what I call "competition" multiplates. I understand that OS Giken also have a range of "road" multiplates that have springs between the intermediate plates and the cage that stop the rattle.

I get might sick of people rushing up to me and telling me to turn the engine off as it has bad big end rattle. :chairshot

"It's OK, its just the clutch",wears a bit thin after 20 or 30 people per race weekend.:(

my os giken clutch rattles as well. Do you know if this is normal, as its quite loud.

my OS twin only rattles with the clutch depressed

since rebuild its a lot more quiet as the plates arent as worn and its definately rattling less

I have an ogura racing super single cerametallic. Had the centre plate replaced due to a destroyed spring, but may need to look at another clutch. When driven hard, after a while produces slip which has only just started happening. Will need something stronger as the new centre plate was less than 10000kms old. ;) Money wasted

from scratch?

or supplying a dead clutch to be modified?

I bought a dead 3 puck nismo clutch for $100, sent it to Jim Berry, and he made a 3800 pound carbonic 5 puck clutch for $800.

Factor in the several hour long mobile phone calls to Jim, and i got an awsome clutch for under a grand! He certainly can talk! Better that someone who doesnt give you the time of day though!

Shaun.

HypeR33...how much power are you making ???

From what I have read the Ogura racing is rated at 450HP. I am making less than that at just under 250rwkw. Plans in the works to bring the kw way up. Will definitely need a new clutch then :goddam: should have used the $900 spent on the new centre plate towards a more powerful clutch, but also need a new flywheel coz it has an Ogura racing lightened flywheel with the clutch.

I purchased a 9puk Ceramic 1100kg in anticipation of 300rwkw.

I bought it from Tim Possingham the previous owner of www.horsepowerinabox.com 1yrs ago for $600.

I'm making no where near it yet, I have no doubts it will hold.

The same clutch is in 2 other 300rwkw monsters I know of. Whatsisname just under 300rwkw & another 2jz Supra making a shade over 300rwkw.

Its quite a nice clutch to drive, reversing is the only time I find it bounces the drive line a little.

I get might sick of people rushing up to me and telling me to turn the engine off as it has bad big end rattle. :chairshot

"It's OK, its just the clutch",wears a bit thin after 20 or 30 people per race weekend.;)

tell me about it. i get looks when I'm at the lights, foot on clutch, select first now everyone within 20 metres of the car is looking at me like i'm must be some kind of idiot not to get that death rattle seen to. quite funny though. those that know just give a little smile... also, like you said the solid centre OS clutches really are a competition style clutch. not very friendly to tootle around with, but awesome for track work, big launches, burnouts etc whatever your heary desires. I think if/when it dies i will either just rebuild it, or try one of the new nismo ones.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...