Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

c'mon gary. Put me out of my misery! I'm dying to know!!! hehe.

thanks mate. :)

Sorry, I am not at my engineering computer, I will do it as soon as I get home tonight.

:P cheers :P

  • Replies 378
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Coil ID = 100/105 mm

Wire OD = 13 mm

# of Coils = 9.5/10 turns

Spring rate = ???

Thanks ...

135 lbs per inch (2.4 kg/mm) if it 9.5 turns and 125 lbs per inch (2.2kg/mm) if its 10 turns.

:D Cheers :(

Hi gary,

I've got one for you.

Rears:

coil OD 91mm

wire OD 13mm

coils 9.4

length (lightly captive) 247mm

Fronts:

coil OD 90mm

wire OD 13mm

coils 7.75

length (lightly captive) 190mm

thanks very much Gary.

Sorry for the delay, I haven't been at my home office PC since last Thursday.

Not too bad;

Rears are 185 lbs per inch (3.3 kg/mm)

Fronts are 245 lbs per inch (4.4 kg/mm)

:D Cheers :(

Edited by Sydneykid

woah! that is a long way off what i thought. maybe i measured something wrong, but i'm pretty sure i wasn't legless when i measured.

thanks mate. :(

woah! that is a long way off what i thought. maybe i measured something wrong, but i'm pretty sure i wasn't legless when i measured.

thanks mate. :P

OK, ignore that. I just noticed you measured coil OD not ID. I will redo them tonight, sorry.

:( cheers ;)

Hi gary,

I've got one for you.

Rears:

coil OD 91mm

wire OD 13mm

coils 9.4

length (lightly captive) 247mm

Fronts:

coil OD 90mm

wire OD 13mm

coils 7.75

length (lightly captive) 190mm

thanks very much Gary.

Lets try that again, using the correct ID this time

Rear = 440 lbs per inch (7.9 kg/mm)

Front = 565 lbs per inch (10.1 kg/mm)

My suggestion for a cheap fix, stick the rears in the front and buy some 250 lbs per inch (4.5 kg/mm) rears.

:D Cheers :(

  • 2 weeks later...

Gary, couple more please -

Coil ID = 102/88.5 mm

Wire OD = 12 mm

# of Coils = 6.1 turns

Spring rate = ???

Coil ID = 102/92 mm

Wire OD = 13 mm

# of Coils = 8.9 turns

Spring rate = ???

Coil ID = 99/68 mm

Wire OD = 12 mm

# of Coils = 7.25 turns

Spring rate = ???

Thanks

Gary, couple more please -

Coil ID = 102/88.5 mm

Wire OD = 12 mm

# of Coils = 6.1 turns

Spring rate = 225 lbs per inch (4kg/mm)

Coil ID = 102/92 mm

Wire OD = 13 mm

# of Coils = 8.9 turns

Spring rate = 170 lbs per inch (3kg/mm)

Coil ID = 99/68 mm

Wire OD = 12 mm

# of Coils = 7.25 turns

Spring rate = 245 lbs per inch (4.4kg/mm)

Thanks

:P cheers :(

  • 1 month later...
Coil ID = 66mm / 96mm

Wire OD = 13mm

# of Coils = 8.5 turns

Just a set of std fronts for an r32. Just like to know what they are rated at ;)

275 lbs/inch (4.9 kg/mm)

Which isn't standard R32GTR front, maybe check the dimensions again.

:P cheers :)

r32 gtst springs they are. The previous owner had them on my car to put the car at std height.

What would this pair be good for? (besides raising the car up :P)

That's an OK front rate for a GTR that sees a bit of track work, would need some decent shocks to control it. From what you are saying the height might be the problem. Some Bilsteins with the additional circlip grooves would handle the rate and then the height could be fixed using the lower grooves. But the Whiteline springs are only $144 a pair on the Group Buy and they are the right rate and height.

:) cheers ;)

  • 4 weeks later...

I have two sets of springs for you to check out please.

First set:

Front: Coil ID: 116mm

Wire OD: 13mm

# of coils: 6.5

Rear: Coil ID: 90mm

Wire OD: 13mm

# of coils: 8.125

second set:

Front: Coil ID: top 103mm - bottom 106mm

Wire OD: 12mm

# of coils: 6.5

Rear: Coil ID: top 70mm - bottom 65mm (this spring starts small, tapers out, then tapers in again)

Wire OD: 12mm

# of coils: 8.8

I appreciate your time. Hope to hear from you soon.

Regards,

Beau

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...