Jump to content
SAU Community

JUN Oil Pump upgrade on R33 GTR

Blitz

By Blitz,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

pnblight Mentor

pnblight

Posted
Posted

Ha blitz the tomei head gasket resistor is that come in the std tomei head gasket kit as i'm also looking at upgrading internals and pump etc and want to address the oil supply issue to the head at the same time cheers

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted

We block off one (of the 2) oil supplies to the cylinder head, we increase the ID of the oil returns to the sump (they are too small) and we run an external oil return from the rear of the cylinder head to the sump.

As for oil pumps we use the standard RB26DETT oil pump, or dry sump for a far superior result for similar cost. The aftermarket pumps are rediculously priced for what they are.

:P

pnblight Mentor

pnblight

Posted
Posted

SK would you be able to maybe do a small drawing or pics of the changes you do as i'm very interested in the mods. (i'm like woundering where you take the oil from the back of the head and plumb back to etc)

pete

do you use the N1 or just the std pump?

and is it posible to just buy the higher pressure release spring for the std pump?(as i have asked nissan and they don't less any parts for the pumps)

pete

BU5TER Grand Master

BU5TER

Posted
Posted
We block off one (of the 2) oil supplies to the cylinder head, we increase the ID of the oil returns to the sump (they are too small) and we run an external oil return from the rear of the cylinder head to the sump.

As for oil pumps we use the standard RB26DETT oil pump, or dry sump for a far superior result for similar cost.  The aftermarket pumps are rediculously priced for what they are.

:)

I'm pretty sure I've said this before, there is no hope in hell that you could do a dry sump set up with new fittings, braided hoses, external oil pump with custom pulley and drive and modifications done to the head and block for custom pick ups/returns and the can to hold the oil for $1200

please tell me I'm wrong and I'll book it in to be done tomorrow

Fitzpatrick Speed Works Mentor

Fitzpatrick Speed Works

Posted
Posted

In parts I ordered all the stuff to do a dry sump in a mates torana, with all the parts supplied from an american wholesaler at a really unbelievable price the parts still cost me $1029 USD!!!

The earlier pic of the fitting welded to the outside is done as it is a pic of the AVO rb30 GTR, in a rb30'd gtr you need to run an external oil pump pickup, as the factory pickup on the rb30 block sits directly above the axel tube in the rb26 4wd sump thus you cant fit it!!! An external oil pick up has no perfomance advantage!!!

proengines Rising Star

proengines

Posted
Posted

Dry sump is a great option if you can do the work yourself. for my RB30 I picked up the pump used but in great condition for $152.50 from Ebay and the tank arrived today for less than $100, it is missing the bottom part which I didnt realise but it's not much to fabricate. I might just buy another, they go for around US$200 used from Nascar teams including a tank heater and usually some lines. Lines etc.. come to around $300 because the tank is being mounted in the tray of the ute. It's a bit of work to mount the pump and set up the drive belt etc so if you are paying by the hour it might add up to a bit to do. I'd say it will take a good Saturdays work and it will be all mounted up.

I fitted a collar to a RB30 crank a couple of weeks ago and it's not a small job, you need to machine the fromt of the crank down, then shrink fit the collar and drill and tap for the screws supplied. It's about 2 hours labour and theres no way you could do it in the car. It comes to $500 or so to supply and fit the collar, then add the price of a Jun or HKS etc pump and you wont have much change out of$4000 including the labour to fit it. On a 33 you dont need to fit the drive collar so you can do it in the car but it still adds up.

The dry sump setup will always make more power on the same engine because it reduces windage. The parasitic losses due to windage are pretty big. It also stops the oil pump sucking in aerated oil which doesnt lubricate anything all that well. The scavenge side of the dry sump pump can pick up oil straight from the back of the head so that oil doesn't have to run back past the crank to get to the sump. Most newer dry sump pumps also have a vaccum pump as the last stage which is great for reducing crankcase pressure.

If it was my engine and I was paying for someone to do it and was on a budget, I would go for the 26 pump, stiffen up the relief spring and clean up the sharp edges in the oil feeds. I'd also knock some restrictors into the oil feeds to the head, we make them with a .75mm feed hole and tap the original down and our one in on top of it. The amount of oil that doesn't feed to the head after that would most likely make up most of the difference that a larger pump would make without the restrictors. You are better off making good use of the flow of the pump that's already there by sending the oil to the right places that by just pumping more oil to make up for a simple design flaw. Oil pumps use a fair bit of power to drive and the less power it takes to drive the pump, the more power at the flywheel. I'd also look at sump baffling, you can have the best oil pump money can buy but if the pickup isn't sitting in the oil it's not going to do any good.

  • 2 years later...
  • 3 years later...
ff_driftz Community Regular

ff_driftz

Posted
Posted

I fitted a collar to a RB30 crank a couple of weeks ago and it's not a small job, you need to machine the fromt of the crank down, then shrink fit the collar and drill and tap for the screws supplied. It's about 2 hours labour and theres no way you could do it in the car. It comes to $500 or so to supply and fit the collar, then add the price of a Jun or HKS etc pump and you wont have much change out of$4000 including the labour to fit it. On a 33 you dont need to fit the drive collar so you can do it in the car but it still adds up.

I have a early r32 rb26 in my 180sx and would like to upgrade my oil pump, most probably an N1 oil pup, how do you fit the collar is it just puched on? do i have to machine anything? do i have to remove the crank?

thanx for help guys

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

I have a early r32 rb26 in my 180sx and would like to upgrade my oil pump, most probably an N1 oil pup, how do you fit the collar is it just puched on? do i have to machine anything? do i have to remove the crank?

thanx for help guys

Spend 5 minutes reading the thread - all the answers are there.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      ECU sees many times the speed than speedo does (R34 swap)

      By Kapr · Posted

      The car/ECU will have all the sensor that it needs and expect to have. I think i do not have to explain to you how the Link is way better specialy if you have swapped engine   I just do not want to deal with any "problems" cuz i have only Nistune which i learned is not that great and in my case cant even deal with that speed problem (Link can) And of course it will be way more easier to tune and diagnose and safe. And for the ECU/speed problem...i dont know.
    • wizlb
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By wizlb · Posted

      Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune: Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • wizlb
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By wizlb · Posted

      Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune:     Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      The fancy pants red shock tower brace is finally incoming from MX5 Mania, getting it shipped from 'Merica has been a long and problematic process, and GWR, the 'Merican supplier will not ship directly to consumers outside of the US, Mania basically had to order a heap of them, the colour choice was silver, or red, and we all know anything red adds 5 killerwasps of dynotorques..... Whilst it does fit over a 2.5, and I've seen a few photos and videos of it being installed and fitting, google also says it might get real close to the FAB9 intake front runner, people in the US says it does fit with the FAB9 intake, except for one person who said it slightly touched.......so there is that.....LOL..... As it seems that I am the first in AU to have this combination of parts there's no local knowledge about fitment, so I'm just a willing guinea pig in this endeavour, I'll cross my fingers and toes and hope for the best In other news, I ordered stuff from China  on the same day I ordered the 23° silicone bend from Victoria, the stuff from China arrived a day ago, the 23° silicone bend is still travelling around Australia thanks to Australia Post, and "may" be here next week
    • Duncan
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Very good news...I contacted Racebox about it last night. My car is a 2016 so remains to be seen if it is compatible, requires a TCU swap, or is impossible.
×
×
  • Create New...