Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thats what im worried about when he gets his 400rwkw in 5 years but hopefully i'll still beat him reason for ( i was going to buy one) i cant get a gtr is i CANNOT get insurance seeing as im only 19 and i like to work on cars and see that i had some input to what makes it go or what makes it blow if you get me......how would a to4e or r go on one? seeing as the Ford 4lt engines theyre like the medium sized ones ( yes i own a ford but i love em) but guys are using these and getting full boost at around 3200rpm how would a turbo of this size handle on a skyline

p.s ford guys are getting 205rwkws with these to4s with UNOPENED engines

Thanks guys

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Hey, I've got a GTR and I'm only 22.

And by the way, Ford guys are getting 300rwkw+++ easy with "unopened" engines, some more like 400rwkw, all on stadard heads, rods and pistons. They have around 190rwkw or so standard. They're getting well over 1000hp out of them now with modified heads, rods, forgies and big turbos.

Simple..

Get a R32 GTS4, over time build up an R32 RB25DE or Rb30, some nice headwork and lumpy cams.

Bolt on a suitable turbo 500-600hp turbo and off you launch with your head stuck in the seat running your high 11 sec 1/4's on street tyres. ;)

At the end of the day you are going to need 4wd to get any decent amount of power/torque down to the ground. But where does it end?? :(

Just don't let their power figures scare you as my little old R32 RB20DET running 16psi and making 164rwkw used to hold its own against a 280kw LS1.

164rwkw is around 220kw at the fly, thats 60kw less than the mightly ls1 to accelerate at the same pace.

How much work can you do yourself? If its little, take others advice and get a car with a headstart on the mods i.e exhaust,cooler, fuel system and PFC.

At present, my opinion is its a buyers market for skylines and there are some decent cars with above mods going for reasonable money.

Because $10K gets gobbled up frightingly fast if you pay retail workshop labour rates.

Well if i can i will get a r32 gtr, how much do you pay for insurance if you dont mind me asking, im not talking about the ba models i know how much they put out damn bastards im talking about a 4ltr engine from eb's and such from over 10 years ago putting out over 200 rwkws unopened from just a turbo....if i can get a gtr with fmic, exhaust, i'll probably put on n1 turbos and ecu with larger injectors and custom headers......is it possible with ecus, nowadays to actually have two maps lets say at a press of a button u can go from 150kws (economy) to around 300+ (just figures).......id be very interested in that cause i dont want to drive around with 300+ kws for no reason......thanks

( yes i own a ford but i love em) but guys are using these and getting full boost at around 3200rpm how would a turbo of this size handle on a skyline  

p.s ford guys are getting 205rwkws with these to4s with UNOPENED engines

Thanks guys

What Ford do you own?

If you really wanna beat your mate, spend 10K on a turbo kit for that, I know a guy that had an EB all up he spent something like 8k for EVERYTHING needed to run a 13.6 quarter mile, on 10 pound boost he made something like 186 rwkw, the kit included a garrett gt35/40 internally gated turbo,wolf 3d, bigger injectors, etc etc. And remember it doesn't stop at 10 pound. The falcon engines are also quite strong, even if it does blow just buy another one for $500 from the trading post :(

Or you could spend the rest of the 2k to rebuild your engine with an ACL race series rebuild kit, get the rods crack tested and aligned, lower the comp, ARP rod bolts and a balance, a set up like that is proven to take more than 300 rwkw all day everyday.

Hey man the GTR is the go there is so much more room to play with, and as faras the tuning goes i take it you mean by the petrol pressure and boost and that stuff. the best thing to do is get the car set up for your 300rwkw + (just figure) and then if you dont want to use it dont put your right foot down as far thats the best boost control right there

I don't understand why you would go with a GTSt if you are after 300kw @ wheels... It would take alot more to get them there. A GTR can get 300kw @ wheels with very minimal mods.

Get one now, beat him now. In 5 years when he does whatever you said about some crazy kit, you would have already built up CAMS, Bigger Turbos, PowerFC, bigger injectors, so on. You could be looking at 350kw @ wheels pretty easy with that combo. The GTR is always going to be lighter too.

Just think of the extremes, if you bought an excel and beefed it up.. the limit would be very low of what you can achieve. SO to a lesser extent, the limit of GTSt is lower (with the given budget)

If you really wanna beat your mate, spend 10K on a turbo kit for that, I know a guy that had an EB all up he spent something like 8k for EVERYTHING needed to run a 13.6 quarter mile, on 10 pound boost he made something like 186 rwkw, the kit included a garrett gt35/40 internally gated turbo,wolf 3d, bigger injectors, etc etc. And remember it doesn't stop at 10 pound. The falcon engines are also quite strong, even if it does blow just buy another one for $500 from the trading post :rofl:

Or you could spend the rest of the 2k to rebuild your engine with an ACL race series rebuild kit, get the rods crack tested and aligned, lower the comp, ARP rod bolts and a balance, a set up like that is proven to take more than 300 rwkw all day everyday.

And again. 10K kit for a 13.6?

22K for a WHOLE GTR will go in the 12's. Then go get you "KIT" later, find some 11's....

The cost of doing the GTST or GTR up equals its self out with the purchase of 2 turbo's vs one. Both will need injectors, fuel pumps, ecu.

The GTST will need a headgasket to drop the comp.

It now comes down to traction, which the GTR has lots of.

GTS4 and build up a RB25DE or simply drop in a RB26DETT is a cheaper option from an initial outlay point of view.

People state yer by the time you spend this much you could have got this.. Its not always the way it works, having the money or finance upfront is not always a possibility, isn't this why we build up cars to make them faster?

The amount of money I've spent on mine I could have easily bought a 32 GTR. Point is I couldn't afford it outright being a full time uni student so I settled on a 32 GTST.

I don't understand why you would go with a GTSt if you are after 300kw @ wheels... It would take alot more to get them there. A GTR can get 300kw @ wheels with very minimal mods.

A GTR would be the go, but dont kid yourself that its cheap to get 300rwkws. Irrespective of whether you have a GTST or GTR to get 300rwkws you will need:

- PFc

- Injectors

- clutch

- cat back exhaust

- some form of boost controller

But now having the GTR, its going to cost more for the front pipes, more for the turbos, more for the filters. But with a GTST you will need an intercooler.

Get a GTR, but its not a $2,000 proposition to get 300rwkws out of them:(

And again. 10K kit for a 13.6?

22K for a WHOLE GTR will go in the 12's. Then go get you "KIT" later, find some 11's....

All he had to to was turn the boost up, it was capable of an 11.

But if adzi can get a R32 GTR then IMO he should definetely get that.

Am I the only person reading this who thinks its a bit lame buying a car just to beat someone??

If you do that, you are destined for disappointment - there is always a biggest fish. Get something ywhich makes you happy, you'll always be the winner at the end of the day if you take it for a drive and don't want to stop.

Thanks for the reply guys hopefully i can get some cash saved and get the gtr, and no i wont control the power with my right foot cause i dont trust my self i will get sumthing worked up for this im sure ecus can run two maps these days not jus fuel pressure and boost pressure but everything (i.e. a limiter) and then a flick of a switch KABOOM well if (when) i get the gtr i'll look at getting n1 turbos or t4 turbos put on..exhaust system from turbos back......ecu (as said)......injectors.....cams.......and front mount.......hopefully mid 2007 this willl be done sounds long way away but time fly's these days

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...