Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have a link in my car was in there when i got it few shops have told me to piss it off if i want 200rwkw

last tune it got a shit 140rwkw on stock boost

my next goal is like 185rwkw on 11psi with new Dumps and hi flow cat mods r

Link computer

PWR front Mount

K & N pod

cat back Exhaust 3" with 1 box

Had Aftermarket BOV took it off due to defect feels a little more laggy

If links r ok where the best Shop to get it tuned

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/79922-how-shit-r-link-computers/
Share on other sites

There's nothing wrong with Link ECUs. The tuner is the primary factor in how the car will run with an aftermarket ECU, not the ECU itself (unless it is a really limited one). They're used everywhere in NZ, so I'm sure the computer is fine. I'd head to Sydney.

I had a Link in a blown celica 10 years ago and it was shit. Their customer support was so pathetic that an australian distributer i bought it through ceased his dealings with them and refused to sell them.

I'm sure alot has improved in 10 years, but it's a case of "once bitten - twice shy" for me....

im running a link with my rb25, i think they are a great computer if you have a good tuner. my was tuned by tim sheather of electronic automotive at epping victoria. i personally would go with someone who is a good tuner and go with the ecu they recommend purely from a convenience stand point, ; ie no good getting a link if there is no one out your way that can tune them.

links are great running one in the r33 gtst and it finr had it tuned by AVO in melbourne the main Ausie supplyer and they are great i got 205Kw a the wheels on stock turbo and have been running for three years its great

I have personally had both a power fc and now a link and i would have to say from my experience i much prefer the link although that is for my setup so different things suit different cars. Your main problem would be the people you got the advice from don't know how to use them. I'd head down to Sydney as there are are few shops here that are good with them.

Care to elaborate, or at least point to some supporting evidence?

Cheers,

Lucien.

well... If people read the difference between I wouldn't have to. Also, just because a tuner is shit, or doesn't know how to tune a link, doesn't mean they are shit, and you run all over the internet trying to tell everyone that.

ok.

Thinks the link has over Powerfc -

Link Has Knock control

Link has Launch Control

Link uses the STANDARD boost solinoid on the R33's as a fully fledged electronic boost controller

Link comes with all the gear to plug straight into a laptop

Link ECU can have a MAFless tune

Link ECU has MANY more tunable options.

My advice, keep the link, get a tuner that knows what he's doing. There is a Tuner here in Mackay that specialises in Links, seen his work, he's tuned lots of 300rwkw+ cars, and guess what? He even tuned my PowerFC with the hand controller, and got 210rwkwn 420 nm torque, with it being a stock turbo, stock motor, FMIC and full exhaust.

I good tuner will never say something is shit, just because they don't know how to use it properly.

well... If people read the difference between I wouldn't have to. Also, just because a tuner is shit, or doesn't know how to tune a link, doesn't mean they are shit, and you run all over the internet trying to tell everyone that.

No point getting defensive, I was honestly after your opinion. Pointing to the paper specs is not very helpful as they tell you nothing about what its actually like to use.

Link Has Knock control

Link has Launch Control

Link uses the STANDARD boost solinoid on the R33's as a fully fledged electronic boost controller

Link comes with all the gear to plug straight into a laptop

Link ECU can have a MAFless tune

Link ECU has MANY more tunable options.

What about cold start, aircon, etc etc? Are all of these accounted for out of the box or do they have to be tuned? Some of those features are available in various forms of PFC (Pro / D-Jetro) or through addons, and its debatable how useful others are.

Lucien.

I had a link running my rb20 (t3/4, cooler, 3", etc) and it ran very well, although fuel economy was pretty poor, prob due more to my right foot tho....

I loved how it ran on a map sensor, NEVER back fired, stalled, or anything, and that was running either standard BOV, aftermarket BOV, or no BOV (tried 'em all).

Then, when i did an rb25 conv. i used the link on that too, which seemed ok, cold start was always a bit of a prob tho, it would constantly rev at 1000-1100rpm even when warm. Same deal as above with the map sensor.

Not sure about air-con, as the condenser was ripped out because of cooler piping.

I had alot of workshops tell me that they were shit, ended up at AVO who did as good a job as they could. I never tuned it for max power (sold now), just tuned to be driven (stock psi) after the conversion.

As stated already, they're VERY common over in NZ, and if tuned correctly, will stand up against most mid range ECU's.

But, having said all that, i've 'heard' that u cant really beat the power fc 4 an rb25.... choice is yours.

Thinks the link has over Powerfc -  

Link Has Knock control

Link has Launch Control

Link uses the STANDARD boost solinoid on the R33's as a fully fledged electronic boost controller

Link comes with all the gear to plug straight into a laptop

Link ECU can have a MAFless tune

Link ECU has MANY more tunable options.

The link plus also has anti lag, thermo fan control, intercooler water spray control, 3 stage shift light, boost cut, maps that allow tuning to 10,000rpm not 7000rpm like most ECU's. There is more in the ECU but i cant remember them all

GRACER makes 510kw at all 4 with a link and it drives perfectly so they cant be that bad ;):) We (Advan) use heaps of them.... we have about 15 of them getting about Sydney now installed in everything from MX5's and Mazda Familia GTR's to all models of GTR Skylines..... give us a call on 9647 1326 to dicuss getting your car tuned

The link plus also has anti lag, thermo fan control, intercooler water spray control, 3 stage shift light, boost cut, maps that allow tuning to 10,000rpm not 7000rpm like most ECU's. There is more in the ECU but i cant remember them all

GRACER makes 510kw at all 4 with a link and it drives perfectly so they cant be that bad :):) We (Advan) use heaps of them.... we have about 15 of them getting about Sydney now installed in everything from MX5's and Mazda Familia GTR's to all models of GTR Skylines..... give us a call on 9647 1326 to dicuss getting your car tuned

heheh I knew there were more features, thanks for adding them. Our tuner in mackay loves them.

Apexi PowerFc Standards are just an easy way to make a bit of power, you want to make alot, and have the tunability, get a link, or something different.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...