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Got an Ep71 Starlet with 1.5 turbo for racing before i got my license (still own it now) Then bought a bright yellow '93 180sx turbo. Sold that a year later for my '32 4 dr. Not as fast...but will be soon! Drove the 20B cosmo on my L's though, loved that car..

I'm a Nissan fan from wayback, my first car was a 1970 Datto Sunny .. all 998cc of menace :D, After that was an R30 Skyline, then a Ford Laser (the horrible twin-carby "sports" model) and now driving a Pintara TR-X (stop laughing). Trying to convince the missus that a Stagea RS Four would be a good idea with another bub on the way :D

Just brought what will be my official first car cuz im not including my old 81 sigma that i use as a paddock basher. It's an 84' z31 300zx N/A, not much at the moment, bought off these forums u might have seen for $600 :( Gunna be fun doing it up tho and plenty enough power for me.

hey i have a 79 sigma paddock basher! so unroadworthy, and undriveable too, with a rooted tourque converter/gearbox/diff that makes a lovely clunk and shakes the whole car going up hills. its great fun, driving over small trees..

1983 BMW 528i - Learnt in the car, took the tests in the car, passed the test in the car, had my first accident in the car.

Overall a solid car, but very very expensive whenever anything needs to be done to it. Still got it at the moment, sitting there on 18s, with M-Tech bodykit and exhaust...

1979 TE 4.1ltr 4speed Cortina burn out machine. :)

Had some awesome fun in that car and was suprisingly quick for what it was.

It had a mild cam, holley and extractors.

Peak power felt as if it was some where just before 5000rpm.

Had no problems pulling away from friends cars, VN v6, VN 5ltr, HQ 4door 5speed 308, 13B N/A RX7 S3.

I ran 235's on the rear, it used to launch off the line like nothing else.

And burnouts.. First second in to third on the spot.. To hold it down the road second was required, third would die off.

I went through 6 4speed second hand single rails (a couple broke teeth, and the rest were bearings and selector forks). I learnt how to rebuild the gearbox and after that it held for 1year without breaking.. Only 1 diff.

Awesome car handled well too as it had lowered springs and gtgas shocks. I remember my old may taking me for a drive in it and saying, you can either have this or a Mustang style celica 4cyl.. I said.. Whats this? he said 6cyl 4speed, I thought thats got to be quicker than a 4 banger. :)

Sold it, saved for my VL Commodore while I drove around in a little 4cyl Corolla, had the vl for 1year sold it for the VS 5ltr 5speed. That went through every drive line part imaginable inc a split rear subframe, so i sold it after 9months and bought the R32 Skyline. I've now had this for a little over 3years. THREE YEARS.. Says something I thinnk. :D

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    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
    • Neg, the top one is actually for the front. The sizes are 18x10.5 +18 and 18x11 +32.   I measured many times but I'm sure I'll have problems as this is the thread for problems.
    • Just one thing; tapping tapered threads is tricky. Taps are always tapered and you would generally run it as far as you can, but with a tapered thread you have to stop much sooner otherwise the wide part of the taper will run in too far and you will have to thread the sensor in too far too as well (possible that it will never make a good seal) BTW nice wide wheels, I guess the top one is for the back!
    • Welp, good to know. Will have to wait awhile until steady hands with drills and taps are available. In other news, these just arrived! I will weigh them for posterity. Edit: 11kg each (or 10.9/11.1 depending on what my scale decides over multiple tests, the 18x11 don't seem to weigh noticeably any more than 10.5)  
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