Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 393
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

At least there was one zed there frotn and centre that was nice. Like a fish out of water though.

QUOTE]

Two zeds were there' date=' well almost! lol. Mine was on the side of the road at the entry to the car park. Actually did anyone get a pic of it with the extinguisher dust on it? i didnt and i would like one just cause i think its well funny.[/quote']

Three actually :D

Don't 350s count?

Toulia, thanks so much for the bread rolls mate!  

You have to come to more SAU events though!!! Just cos you don't have your GTR anymore, doesn't mean you're allowed to leave us! :D Just look at me, I'm sticking around like a bad smell  :uh-huh:  :uh-huh:  :innocent:

It was great to catch up with Toulia and so many others - nearly all of the original team track day there - think we were missing Dino and FATZ.

A VERY BIG thanks has to go to Jaala and Adam who have pretty much driven the whole event, along with Merli and Nick.

The SNS committee set big aims for 2005 which were more than delivered- well done guys.

I would like to say a big thanks from the ACT guys to all the organisers of the event, I had a great time.

One thing I have noticed though is that in this thread I have counted only 3 pictures of R31's (one posted by the owner of car) and NONE of DR30's and I think only 2 of KPGC10's, however there seem to be plenty of 32, 33 and 34 pictures here... Are R31's or older just not considered cool enough anymore???

Has everyone forgotten thier Skyline roots? I know I have a bias opinion but it seems to me that the older (original) Skylines only get over looked these days, I believe there is even a post by someone here outlining the winners of each category (on page 1,2 or 3) but the "Best R31 category" is completly left out........

I drove for 5 hours from the ACT just to be at this event and I thoroughly enjoyed it, I absolutly love every model of Skyline and Nissan alike, but when I see things like this I start to wonder why I put in the effort.

Once again, thankyou to all of the organisers and competitors, I had a great day...

Congratulations to all of the winners (even the best R31 and Classic Skylines).

I will definatly be there next year.

Mick,

Well put ;)

Just wait for my photos... I made sure I took photos of the R31s, R30s and the KPGC10s!

Don't be disheartened if people mention the older models less, I guess in the same way you're biased towards your car model, everyone else is biased towards theirs! But because there are so many more R32s, R33s and R34s, it's only natural that conversation tends to gravitate towards the models that the majority own!

We definitely appreciate you coming all the way from the ACT, but even more so because you brought out your R31s!!! It wouldn't be a complete show without your input and your beautiful cars! :uh-huh: :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...