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Soarer V8 is the sweetest, but that's my opinion.

I just don't think the garage is complete without a V8 of some type. I'm not keen on the latest Holden 8's though. Sound like a vacuum. Be nice to hear what the remus does for Vusters'.

Soarer V8 is the sweetest, but that's my opinion.

I just don't think the garage is complete without a V8 of some type. I'm not keen on the latest Holden 8's though. Sound like a vacuum. Be nice to hear what the remus does for Vusters'.

Here you go Geoff. Maybe a loud vacuum? :thumbsup:

http://users.tpg.com.au/mcurro/clips/ls2Re...sRaceSystem.WMV

Sorry. It was taken on my little digital cam. Plus I had to shrink it to a downloadable friendly size.

Higher reving? Here's a dyno run.  

http://voodoo.theddrzone.com/carstuff/remu...s2remusdyno.WMV

Very nice :D

  • 3 weeks later...

A couple of things, that wing, that wing does absolutely nothing for me, put the bloody gtr wing on if u want it looking like that ! The twin cannons. hmmm look like, a little bit odd, but i would need to see it in person. Alot of damn work has gone into it. At the end of they day, damn great thing he has done, something different. What he really needs on it tho, is a nice stroker kit, u reckon you could fit a twin turbo set up in there, hmmm hardly looks like it.

But its not in vic, so i cant say. Change the cover colours !!!, hehe.

love to see it on fullboost one of these days :rant:

Oh and nothing sounds better than an old carbifed v8... mmm rumble

Edited by Coupe-This
  • 3 weeks later...

WHAT A WASTE OF TIME ,EFFORT & MONEY- I HAVE A LS1 STATESMAN & A 96 R33 GTS-t SKYLINE & I CAN TELL YOU RIGHT NOW THAT THE SKYLINE WINS HANDS DOWN FOR INSTANT PERFORMANCE & HANDLING & THRILL FACTOR. THE LS1 WOULD HAVE TO BE THE MOST DOUGHY , WEAK V8 I HAVE EVER DRIVEN , & UNTIL YOU WIND IT UP OVER 5000RPM ITS AS WEAK AS P.SS. STICK TO THE BEST 6 CYLINDER DONK EVER MADE IN THE HISTORY OF THE MOTOR VEHICLE I SAY!!!!!!!!!!

to those saying it'll be too heavy, or heavier than a VH45 ...

the car with LS1 & T56 now weighs 10kg less than it did with the RB25DET

ive seen a Z32 300ZX with the same conversion and it dropped 150lbs from the VG30

OHV all alloy V8 = very light

OHV all alloy V8 = better weight distrobution too, as it can be mounted further back in the engine bay (OHV and V configuration means its very compact for its capacity). There are guys on the RX7 forums retaining the 50:50 weight distrobution running LS1s instead of 1.3 rotarys.

WHAT A WASTE OF TIME ,EFFORT & MONEY- I HAVE A LS1 STATESMAN & A 96 R33 GTS-t SKYLINE & I CAN TELL YOU RIGHT NOW THAT THE SKYLINE WINS HANDS DOWN FOR INSTANT PERFORMANCE & HANDLING & THRILL FACTOR.  THE LS1 WOULD HAVE TO BE THE MOST DOUGHY , WEAK V8 I HAVE EVER DRIVEN , & UNTIL YOU WIND IT UP OVER 5000RPM ITS AS WEAK AS P.SS.  STICK TO THE BEST 6 CYLINDER DONK EVER MADE IN THE HISTORY OF THE MOTOR VEHICLE I SAY!!!!!!!!!!

What do you expect from a luxobarge? The car weighs 2 tonne. I haven't heard anyone trying to compare a statesman to a skyline.

I've seen the car in the flesh and its a very nice conversion - and my god does it sound good. Plus 429rwhp is a fair amount in anyone's book.

I'm all for thinking outside the square...We have an LS1 about to make its way into a RWD Nissan platform too...

Jash

  • 3 weeks later...
WHAT A WASTE OF TIME ,EFFORT & MONEY- I HAVE A LS1 STATESMAN & A 96 R33 GTS-t SKYLINE & I CAN TELL YOU RIGHT NOW THAT THE SKYLINE WINS HANDS DOWN FOR INSTANT PERFORMANCE & HANDLING & THRILL FACTOR.  THE LS1 WOULD HAVE TO BE THE MOST DOUGHY , WEAK V8 I HAVE EVER DRIVEN , & UNTIL YOU WIND IT UP OVER 5000RPM ITS AS WEAK AS P.SS.  STICK TO THE BEST 6 CYLINDER DONK EVER MADE IN THE HISTORY OF THE MOTOR VEHICLE I SAY!!!!!!!!!!

My "lux-0-barge" does 12.5 @ 109mph and would beat a lot of the cars on here. Stock they are doughy as they are supposed to be smooth and comfortable, not a sports car.

Now i have both and about to turbo the f**ker too. 380rwkw anyone?? hehe

  • 1 year later...

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This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. 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