Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It is a common belief that most, if not all, odometers are wound back either here or over there.

I believe it was done to mine.

Thing is, I also believe that the engines are tough and the drive train can take it.

Just check the condition of everything and try not to judge by odometer alone.

Mate, if the 45 thou is genuine you have no need to worry (even if it had a coupla hundred thousand in front of it.

Go by the condition and service it regularly.

El Bee

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82036-high-milage/#findComment-1488050
Share on other sites

My old RB20DET did 170,000km's, 100,000km's of that was running 1bar and ~164rwkw.

I occasionally threw it on the dyno to check afr's and ignition timing to ensure they fuel pump wasn't going bad etc..

Keep them running well and you won't have any problems for hundreds of thousands of kays.

The motor still had good 145psi in all 6 cylinders when I pulled it out.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82036-high-milage/#findComment-1488062
Share on other sites

my 32 gt-r is showing 138ks, which i believe is genuine as the car has been here since 96..

compression tested it on the weekend, its showing 170psi in all cylinders, and i know the car has had an avcr and aftermarket turbos for a few kays..

makes me wonder how many have had some form of tampering going on.. theres no reason a stockie engine (maybe not turbos) couldnt do 200k i reckon.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82036-high-milage/#findComment-1488402
Share on other sites

I should also state that 145psi across all 6 cylinders in the rb20det was exactly the same as it was when I bought the car on 67,000km's.

Compression is affected by cam, cam timing etc.. Overlap bleeds off compression, as a result show a lower compression.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82036-high-milage/#findComment-1488524
Share on other sites

I have a problem with my Odometer, I bought it a year ago and it was 115000Kms on the Odometer. One day i was driving and suddenly I noticed it says 230000Kms which I believe it's supposed to be 130000Kms cuz I'd only driven it for 15000kms. The old owner told me there is a minor problem with the Odometer it's not functioning correctly sometimes...is there a way to fix it?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82036-high-milage/#findComment-1490710
Share on other sites

I have a problem with my Odometer, I bought it a year ago and it was 115000Kms on the Odometer. One day i was driving and suddenly I noticed it says 230000Kms which I believe it's supposed to be 130000Kms cuz I'd only driven it for 15000kms. The old owner told me there is a minor problem with the Odometer it's not functioning correctly sometimes...is there  a way to fix it?

i'm guessing its a digital odo.

i've heard many many cases of this with digital odo's all of a sudden they jump like 100-200K kms!!!

this is the result of the odo catching up on its true reading after being electronically wound back.

some sydney siders may remember a dealership name B** B*** Toys, rhymes with Fig Joys Toys, on parramatta rd broadway.

heard of lots of cases from them...

i'd suggest making sure your car has all the things replaced/repaired that should normally be done for a car with your 'new' odo reading,

the rest is up to you!

everyone should be aware that realistically, every single jap import has had the clock wound back.

i've just bought a r32 gtr with 80k on the clock, its a 15yr old car, theres no way thats legit!

just do the maths

20k kms/yr

15yrs

300,000kms

and that myth that japs dont/cant drive very much is crap, japs drive as much as we do!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82036-high-milage/#findComment-1492255
Share on other sites

and that myth that japs dont/cant drive very much is crap, japs drive as much as we do!

SPOT ON!!!

I can't believe the dreamers with the amazingly low K's.

But all this "winding back the clock" stuff went out with white-wall tyres.

They just buy another speedo from the wreckers and use that one. Cheap as.

Come selling time, they re-fit the original speedo and hey, look at the low K's on my car.

Log book history is much harder to falsify.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82036-high-milage/#findComment-1492308
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...