Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I don't do track days and I don't think I give the brakes too hard a time... but I can't find any slotted rotors for series 2. The R33 ones recommended in the first post of this thread for series 2 are *not* correct (as several of us have found out). R33 GTST front rotors machined down by 6mm gives the correct diameter and thickness but the wrong offset. If I could find a set of slotted rotors which actually fit then I think I would be content with the stock setup and those.

Can the original post by SK on page 1 be ammended to say that the specified FRONT DISC ROTORS for Series 2 DO NOT fit. I almost ordered these and was ready to modify them until I read through all 16 pages of the thread. Most people won't readthrough all the pages!

"Front Disc Rotors - DBA 4963 (R33 GTST) modified by machining down the OD by 6mm"

(Moderators)??

Also can anybody confirm that the specified REAR DISC ROTORS do actually fit Series 2 Stagea?

" Rear Disc Rotors - DBA 4908 (R32GTR), modified by maching down the OD by 5mm"

Can the original post by SK on page 1 be ammended to say that the specified FRONT DISC ROTORS for Series 2 DO NOT fit. I almost ordered these and was ready to modify them until I read through all 16 pages of the thread. Most people won't readthrough all the pages!

"Front Disc Rotors - DBA 4963 (R33 GTST) modified by machining down the OD by 6mm"

(Moderators)??

Also can anybody confirm that the specified REAR DISC ROTORS do actually fit Series 2 Stagea?

" Rear Disc Rotors - DBA 4908 (R32GTR), modified by maching down the OD by 5mm"

Hey mate you should consider converting to R33 GTST brakes, I have done the conversion running rebuilt calipers front and rear, rda slotted rotors and ebc brake pads. Stops heaps better no fade and plenty of choices in regards of replacing parts when they wear out e.g. pads / rotors.

Hey mate you should consider converting to R33 GTST brakes, I have done the conversion running rebuilt calipers front and rear, rda slotted rotors and ebc brake pads. Stops heaps better no fade and plenty of choices in regards of replacing parts when they wear out e.g. pads / rotors.

Thanks, I have considered upgrading to either R33 GTST or R34GTT brakes, however;

a) don't really need the extra stopping power at the moment

b) cost factor for upgrade (especially R34)

c) increase in insurance premiuim for modified car

Having said that, if a (R34) brake package came up at a reasonable price, I wouldn't say no.

Are 33gtst brakes a straight swap for a series 2?

read the last couple of pages of this thred (15 and 16). there are a couple of post by myself (make sure you read both my long posts, i had to make some corrections in the second one) and also by Darrinspencer on what is involved in putting R33 and R34 brake on a S2 stagea.

short answer is yes they will fit, but you need to alter a couple of things.

Edited by QWK32
Can the original post by SK on page 1 be ammended to say that the specified FRONT DISC ROTORS for Series 2 DO NOT fit. I almost ordered these and was ready to modify them until I read through all 16 pages of the thread. Most people won't readthrough all the pages!

"Front Disc Rotors - DBA 4963 (R33 GTST) modified by machining down the OD by 6mm"

(Moderators)??

...

I second this... I did order these, and they now sit in the garage. I have also asked to have the first post amended too...

G`day All ,looking for rear handbrake shoes any one replaced then yet ????,did go & see perth comany called ATAP & no joy so if any one can shed some light on them Cheer`s chuckie

Thanks, I have considered upgrading to either R33 GTST or R34GTT brakes, however;

a) don't really need the extra stopping power at the moment

b) cost factor for upgrade (especially R34)

c) increase in insurance premiuim for modified car

Having said that, if a (R34) brake package came up at a reasonable price, I wouldn't say no.

Still reckon you should do the swap, heres why :blush:

a) Never hurts to be able to stop quicker, and in reality doing the swap won't necessarily help you stop quicker but you will certainly notice a difference if you stop 5 times in a hurry or your doing a track day or towing a heavy load. Anything where brake fade is an issue.

b) Admittedly there is a cost involved although most wreckers will sell a complete set of disks and calipers for a R33 for around $700, you may be able to get some pretty good ones. If you start with a reasonably good set you can replace bits as they wear out e.g. slotted disks for standard and better pads. I got virtually brand new Project MU HC+ pads in the calipers I got from a wrecker but I had already bought a full set of EBC pads. (the project MU ones are going straight on as soon as the EBCs wear out, saves me a few hundred in new pads)

c) Increase in insurance premium????? They are Nissan Calipers sir see it says it on them. They came on the car like that. How is anyone ever going to prove you wrong? Even if they did pick up that they aren't standard which face it most people would never know. How many insurance companies employ Nissan Stagea Model experts?

Are 33gtst brakes a straight swap for a series 2?

Yes they are a straight swap but you need to modify the bolts where the calipers bolt to the strut. The caliper is an M12 and on the strut it is an M10 or something like that. ( I can't remember but it is pretty straight forward) Take your car to any good mechanic with the calipers and explain what you want to do. My mechanic put it straight up onto a hoist had the front caliper off in 5 minutes checked the sizes no worries. Got the bolts modified and I picked the car up the next day. Only charged me $100 or so for the brake swap as part of the service. All the original lines abolt up and everything although you will need to remove the brass nipple from inside the caliper and slightly shorten the bolt that bolts to the caliper (nothing 30 seconds on a bench grinder won't fix)

Yes they are a straight swap but you need to modify the bolts where the calipers bolt to the strut. The caliper is an M12 and on the strut it is an M10 or something like that. ( I can't remember but it is pretty straight forward) Take your car to any good mechanic with the calipers and explain what you want to do. My mechanic put it straight up onto a hoist had the front caliper off in 5 minutes checked the sizes no worries. Got the bolts modified and I picked the car up the next day. Only charged me $100 or so for the brake swap as part of the service. All the original lines abolt up and everything although you will need to remove the brass nipple from inside the caliper and slightly shorten the bolt that bolts to the caliper (nothing 30 seconds on a bench grinder won't fix)

Awesome... and are R34 brakes a straight bolt-on? ie. no bolt size differences to worry about? What about lines, anyone know if the fitting on the car that the flexible lines attach to is the same as R34 (thus enabling the use of R34 braided lines) or would a custom line need to be made? (this for S2 RS Four)

DaveB, i think all of the flared fittings on the skyline/stageas are the same size thred and pitch. i've got some R32 lines here and they fit in the R32 brakes R33 brakes and also looked like they would fit on the stagea flared fittings, i didn't try them though.

edit: you'd just have to check the R34 line length was ok

Edited by QWK32

Dave, I can't say 100% for R34 brakes but I am running the std stagea hoses on my car into R33GTST calipers no problems here, the lines are a bit short on the back, could do with another inch but there still ok. I believe other than the caliper mounting bracket on R34 calipers being slightly longer (To allow for larger disks) the calipers are pretty much the same. Not sure on bolt sizes for R34 calipers but even if they are different like on R33 calipers its not too much of a drama to get sorted. In terms of braided lines i believe Maltech make a set for a stagea which are ADR approved. I have considered getting a set but have kind of gotten lazy and haven't gotten around to looking at this yet. Let us know how you get on.

Cheers

Thanks for that will see what I can do. Now that cheap S2 pads can be had for $80 it's kinda tempting to stay stock... but I at least want braided lines and I guess that R34 pads surely aren't going to be more expensive than S2 stagea ones.

Still reckon you should do the swap, heres why :)

a) Never hurts to be able to stop quicker, and in reality doing the swap won't necessarily help you stop quicker but you will certainly notice a difference if you stop 5 times in a hurry or your doing a track day or towing a heavy load. Anything where brake fade is an issue.

I don't do track days- not with a Stagea anyway. If I tow a heavy load, I adjust my speed and braking distance accordingly.

b) Admittedly there is a cost involved although most wreckers will sell a complete set of disks and calipers for a R33 for around $700, you may be able to get some pretty good ones. If you start with a reasonably good set you can replace bits as they wear out e.g. slotted disks for standard and better pads. I got virtually brand new Project MU HC+ pads in the calipers I got from a wrecker but I had already bought a full set of EBC pads. (the project MU ones are going straight on as soon as the EBCs wear out, saves me a few hundred in new pads)

Brake conversion second hand + Installation + upgraded slotted disks + better pads = Even more cost.

c) Increase in insurance premium????? They are Nissan Calipers sir see it says it on them. They came on the car like that. How is anyone ever going to prove you wrong? Even if they did pick up that they aren't standard which face it most people would never know. How many insurance companies employ Nissan Stagea Model experts?

You may or may not know that there are members on this very forum from specialist Insurance companies such as Shannons etc....who may not necessarily know a Stagea inside out, but can EASILY find out the required info....2 spot vs 4 spot SIR- Sorry your car is modified.

If an insurance company is looking for an excuse to refuse a claim based on you not fullfilling your duty of care, then they will find it...especially these days.

I personally like to disclose all modifications to my insurance company as refusal of a claim will offend and leave you many $'s in debt.

The fact that people are drawing attention to this brake upgrade, is information out in the open that brake conversions to these vehicles are probable and may become popular and draw attention to insurance companies insuring your pride and joy.

Can the original post by SK on page 1 be ammended to say that the specified FRONT DISC ROTORS for Series 2 DO NOT fit. I almost ordered these and was ready to modify them until I read through all 16 pages of the thread. Most people won't readthrough all the pages!

"Front Disc Rotors - DBA 4963 (R33 GTST) modified by machining down the OD by 6mm"

(Moderators)??

Duncan,

It's the FRONT rotors that do not fit a Series 2 - offset is incorrect as I understand it, not rears as in your EDIT. Also can the EDIT be in BOLD to be very clear?

RE: The rears I have asked whether they do infact fit, however nobody has confirmed as yet.

Also can anybody confirm that the specified REAR DISC ROTORS do actually fit Series 2 Stagea?

" Rear Disc Rotors - DBA 4908 (R32GTR), modified by maching down the OD by 5mm"

doh sorry, will fix that first post for front instead!

BTW re brakes and insurance companies....while I personally would notify them of a change (they know about the 8 pot brakes on mine) I am sure they would not be able to refuse a claim if they are properly fitted, upgraded brakes.

RS4STAGMAN, fair enough everyone is entitled to their view point. Personally I am very happy I have done the conversion and no mroe brake worries for me when it comes to replacing disks / calipers.

Also FYI I got my calipers rebuilt at Racebrakes here in Melbourne and the chap there commented that the standard Stagea brakes were inadequate for the size and performance of the vehicle. He thought I was doing the right thing by upgrading the brakes and he didn't think there would be any issues with doing the swap.

Regarding insurance have you ever made an insurance claim? I know I have made a few in my time and the reality is if they wanted to ping you for something it is more than likely not going to be in the braking department. Probably for something like bald tyres or an engine modification e.g. Boost Controller or lowered suspension or something like that. If I had my insurance refused for replacing my braking system with a superior system offered by the same manufacturer which had been fitted professionally with all brand new parts e.g. Pads / Disks I would be taking the insurance company to court.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
×
×
  • Create New...