Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Whatever you reckon. Rotor size (ie. the thermal mass and it's ability to dispense the heat) is what's important. Pad size accounts for 3/4 SFA. But uno, you're the expert, what ever helps you sleep at night. The laws of physics are broken all the time...

  • Like 2

If you read i put N1 brake ducts on my car THIS IS A MISSIVE HELP :thumbsup: so i guess your not reading what iam done with my car :whistling: ,

Iam not some silly kid that your talking to ,

But I guess you have a Stagea :no:

I do try different stuff with my BRAKE SETUP,

as you see i did have my Backing plates REBONED & have had R32 4 pots on my car ,

BUT again i don`t look at my car as a Performace car like many think they are ,

I have looked at many ways to IMPROVE STOCK SETUP,best i can do on a small budget,

:wave:

cheers chuckie. might i say those braided lines look the business, i guess the rubber lines would have done the job for the first 10 yrs of the cars life but id imagine mine are fairly well toast by now.

i think i might save my coin and get GTT calipers with braided lines and some dba/rda slotted rotors and EBC greenstuff pads cos ive had a good run with them and they arent anywhere near as dusty as some.

if i end up turfing my SMIC you rekon it would be worth running some ducting from the front bar ends to the brake calipers/rotors? just something home job nothing to overboard.

Or you can generally pick up 2nd hand brembos for like $1500 of a 350z

thats the line i was enquiring about, im aware alot of people are running the 350z rotors but will 350z brembos only bolt up to m35's?

Just wanted to say i have just done the rear pads on my RSFOUR-S and they are definitely the Bendix DB1399.

If your old pads still have the metal backing shim plates to help spread the piston load across the pad, then you will find that the 2 little nipples on the back face of the outer pads will interfere.

Use some side cutters to remove the nipples and file them back to be flush. Apart from that, perfect fit.

Jez

  • 2 weeks later...

Guess this is the best place for the following.

Just did a skim and rear brake pad replacement on my M35 300RX. All went well and feels perfect now.

The pads where a stocked off the shelf item and where listed for the M35.

They are Bendix DB1509 GCT and are a perfect fit. Cheap at only $80 total for both sets.

They are the ceramic tech ones with titanium stripe (no bedding in).

The fronts were changed earlier and are the Bendix DB1232 GCT.

Too easy!

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What copper washer do you guys use on the bleeder bolts? The existing one I have I had no idea where to find it in a local store, I did buy some online but that are only 1mm thick whereas my old one is 2mm+ thick and when I put the new washer out and squeeze the top radiator hose I can hear a bit of air but not with the old one. Does this matter? The new one doesn't leak, but the inner diameter is a bit loose whereas the old one threads on the bolt.
    • Howdy all, after being out a few weeks ago on a spirited drive in my GTR I have 2 issues that oddly have appeared at the same time. Whilst accelerating quickly through the gears all of a sudden i’ve lost power at the top of third gear (below redline around 6000rpm) for no obvious reason.    From that point onwards the car has been running rich on idle, won’t really rev under load without a ton of black smoke and the odd backfire, and dying as a pull up to a set of lights unless I keep the revs up around 1500rpm. In addition when shutting down the car that same night (I was 10 minutes from home) I noticed one of the turbos was significantly noisy on wind down when shutting off the engine. After letting the car cool down overnight it starts up fine, although once it gets to temp the revs start to creep up and down, the exhaust is darker than it should be and it also sounds like it’s running rich (fat note) I’ve put a new set of plugs in it - no change, the old plugs all seemed OK with two of them being somewhat richer/fueled up than the other 3 with 1 being borderline. I’ve smoked tested the intake system via the front of the Turbos, found a split vacuum hose going to the factory boost gauge sender, which I have since replaced.  Also found another leak on the gasket coming off the rear turbo outlet, have also replaced this. After fixing both of these leaks - still have the running rich issue. I’ve also tried another pair of AFM’s - no change here After pulling off the front turbo intake pipes, there is obvious shaft play in the front turbo, which now hisses loudly on light revvs although I can’t see why this would make the car run funny even under idle. I’m curious to know why it’s running rich before I potentially replace/rebuild turbos. The car is completely stock <50,000kms  other than an exhaust. Oil and coolant are all clear. I haven’t bothered with coil packs as it looks like they won’t be the issue due to condition of the plugs. Any help appreciated as I cry myself to sleep!
    • No probs at all. I used to love trying to dig up obscure info for those in need where possible going back 20+ years on SAU.  I did have another look and couldn't come up with any closer match. I'm leaning towards those skirts in your first pic are custom fitments, cut down/extended or from another car entirely and modded to fit an R34 sedan. I would've thought someone in Japan had them and taken a photo at some stage over the last 2 decades but there's nothing. Someone out there must know surely.
    • Welcome mate. Any pics? Even with a DE I'd be well happy if I had that as a 1st car. 
×
×
  • Create New...