Stagea Brakes

[Dingus]

Can you use an R33 brake stopper? Or does it need to be specific for a WC34?

[chuckie]

Can you use an R33 brake stopper? Or does it need to be specific for a WC34?

Yes but will needed to have mods done ,

I did one for BUBBA ,& have same type on mine but modded different to his,

[chuckie]

$300+ added to $300+ doesnt equal $10000 chuckie lol

Why don`t you worry about the details, $300+$300 + pads + lines + brakestopper is $1000 ok if you can get pads lines & stopper for unders $400 you done well .

but i guess you don`t read to well ,Just stick to your own type of car THANK YOU

[Dingus]

I thought he was more going that you put too many 0's. Figured you meant 1,000 but you put 10,000

Thanks for info on stopper. Anyone able to confirm this?

Sorry if this has been answered, but haven't had time to read the thread properly. Just chasing part numebrs for front and rear brakes on a s1 rs4.

From the first post, am I right that pads are:

1250BP (F)

1144BP ®

And front rotors are same as S14 (DBA4909)?

Anyone have a part number for the rear rotors?

[zei20l]

oh i can read perfectly well, i was correcting your mathematical ability - or lack thereof

[Sunkist]

oh i can read perfectly well, i was correcting your mathematical ability - or lack thereof

yeh iain stick to your own type of car THANK YOU very much

[Dunc]

$10000

$1000

Theres a bit of a difference between $1,000 and $10,000 chuckie.

[chuckie]

REALLY ,

IF YOU HAVE NOTHING GOOD TO ADD IN THREAD DON`T POST CRAP ,PEOPLE TRY TO GET INFO NOT DRIBBLE

[Dunc]

REALLY ,

IF YOU HAVE NOTHING GOOD TO ADD IN THREAD DON`T POST CRAP ,PEOPLE TRY TO GET INFO NOT DRIBBLE

Yes, Really!!! Pretty sure I did add something good - I added some clarity, because you dont seem to be able to post a coherient response yourself.

I wouldnt want someone thinking they needed to spend $10k on brakes, irrespective of if they own a C34 or an M35

[Sunkist]

REALLY ,

IF YOU HAVE NOTHING GOOD TO ADD IN THREAD DON`T POST CRAP ,PEOPLE TRY TO GET INFO NOT DRIBBLE

i was taking your side man.. jeez trying to show the love for all the stagea owners.

[zei20l]

should i put 'lolz' at the end of the line instead of 'lol'?

i was joking chuckie!!!!!

anyway, i should add that brake stoppers were one of the best brake mods i did to my cars. cant find one for M35 tho which sucks

[KiwiRS4T]

I bought mine from a group buy but I can't remember who organised it.

According to the Cusco website they list the R33 same part number as WGNC34 but different from WGC34 (2wd) so R33 one should fit.

http://www.cusco.co.jp/en/pdf/Brake%20master%20cylinder%20stopper_nissan.pdf

[zei20l]

bigger booster to suit the 4 spot front brakes on the WGNC34?

[scotty nm35]

but i guess you don`t read to well ,Just stick to your own type of car THANK YOU

NoT vEry nicE THere Chuckie...

[Jetwreck]

LOL!

Edited June 21, 2011 by Jetwreck

[RS4-S]

bigger booster to suit the 4 spot front brakes on the WGNC34?

only 2 spot fronts mate, thats why people are opting to use skyline calipers

[zei20l]

good idea.

who knows why they didnt do that from factory!

the lighter R33 got 4-spot front calipers

[gslrallysport]

Why Waste MONEY doing that on Rear

Because all though the rear 'axle' as a component does less of the overall vehicle braking, it's also got substantially smaller hardware in which to do it with, so the rear brakes, more often than not, work just as hard in the back as they do in the front when pushed hard. The biggest mistake people make is neglecting the rear, hitting the hills/track, having the rear fade out without them noticing, and put more pressure on the front, which fade, and then get blamed...

When it comes to pads in particular, there's VERY few applications where we don't recommend running the same pads front and rear. VERY light front wheel drives and Porsches (the later for fairly unique reasons) are the two major exceptions. And the same thought process have to be applied when discussing upgrades and caliper choices.

[gslrallysport]

NoT vEry nicE THere Chuckie...

CLASSIC!!

[Jetwreck]

Because all though the rear 'axle' as a component does less of the overall vehicle braking, it's also got substantially smaller hardware in which to do it with, so the rear brakes, more often than not, work just as hard in the back as they do in the front when pushed hard. The biggest mistake people make is neglecting the rear, hitting the hills/track, having the rear fade out without them noticing, and put more pressure on the front, which fade, and then get blamed...

When it comes to pads in particular, there's VERY few applications where we don't recommend running the same pads front and rear. VERY light front wheel drives and Porsches (the later for fairly unique reasons) are the two major exceptions. And the same thought process have to be applied when discussing upgrades and caliper choices.

+1 on all of the above.

Might also add though that a good street setup for me is to try to get a little more bite/bias on the rear.....but there are problems with this setup as you can very quickly run out of talent!