Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Most sets of 350Z brembos seemed to be around the $600-800 mark when I was looking. Check out Japan then compare to here and the states.

Personally I'd be going the Akebonos if anything. SO sex, and by the time you add up cost of lines, rotors, etc, it doesn't work out too expensive.

$600-800 is cheap!? From Japan is basically not worth considering from what I've seen this arvo.

The Akebono kit is pretty good value that's for sure. Maybe we should be looking at group buys of them?

Edited by jasevr4

OK So I fitted the 33GTST to the RS4, and fitted the two pot RS4 fronts to the 25G. Now the brakes on the 25G rattle a lot. No sure if some of the shims missing cause these rattles.Also the G needs two pumps to get a hard on. (no sex jokes please) I guess this is caused by unbraided lines???

Any clues?? And yes have bled about six times.

Jase, feel free to chase it if you want. But I don't think you'll be able to get the price down low enough to tempt me yet. The way things have worked out, I'm pretty happy so far, and suspect when the braided lines and Motul fluid go in I'll be very happy. That, and the DBA Clubspec T3 disks look sexy! :laugh:

I probably won't replace mine until the disks need replacing. Unless you get cheap enough!

That's about right Jase, check out my post here on the Akebonos for M35/G35/V35 including delivery (with and without rotors):

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/185569-m35-info/page__st__1760__p__6204845#entry6204845

OK So I fitted the 33GTST to the RS4, and fitted the two pot RS4 fronts to the 25G. Now the brakes on the 25G rattle a lot. No sure if some of the shims missing cause these rattles.Also the G needs two pumps to get a hard on. (no sex jokes please) I guess this is caused by unbraided lines???

Any clues?? And yes have bled about six times.

Wouldn't be caused by unbraided lines - was there a difference in rotor thickness or have you transplanted the rotors too?Did you clean up the pistons - they could be sticking in the bores.

Wouldn't be caused by unbraided lines - was there a difference in rotor thickness or have you transplanted the rotors too?Did you clean up the pistons - they could be sticking in the bores.

Transplanted the rotors too which are wider. Had to space both the calipers and the rotors to get the proper fit. Calipers were O/H and had new kits fitted.

Brakes on the G are a PITA. The ABS light has been on long before the brake upgrade and had to disconnect the hand (foot) brake caus it would not release and now the ABS unit has a violent buzzing in it even when the ignition is off and when the motor is running. Had to pull the 30 amp fuses from the engine bay fuse box to get it to stop.

There is no bee hive under the hood so WTF is causing the buzz.

The buzz started yesterday, 2/3 months after the brake swap.

Edited by 66yostagea

Transplanted the rotors too which are wider. Had to space both the calipers and the rotors to get the proper fit. Calipers were O/H and had new kits fitted.

Brakes on the G are a PITA. The ABS light has been on long before the brake upgrade and had to disconnect the hand (foot) brake caus it would not release and now the ABS unit has a violent buzzing in it even when the ignition is off and when the motor is running. Had to pull the 30 amp fuses from the engine bay fuse box to get it to stop.

There is no bee hive under the hood so WTF is causing the buzz.

The buzz started yesterday, 2/3 months after the brake swap.

Maybe the buzzer is telling you the handbrake isn't working! Have you tried to get diagnostic codes from the ecu (paperclip and engine light)?

Fitted R34 GTT calipers and rotors to my S2 C34 this weekend with mixed results.

Bolted in easy enough, used original caliper bolts, removed flare nut stopped thing and everything went in easy.

Problems, new Allied Nippon pads that came with were super squeally.

Any light application sounded like I was in a kindergarten right next to the mega slide at lunch break.

So bought some Bendixs, still squealing but no where near as bad.

I think I may be missing squealer pads between pistons and pads.

This is what I got before bolt up.

2012-01-29142240.jpg

Next question is where the heck would i get replacements?

Also anyone know if there is a diff between C34 and R34 masters?

I have the squeally pads on the RS4.Only on light pressure. PITA. But if I am out back "sharpening the mower blades" I can hear Mrs

drive in. :whistling: Down the coast tomorrow to get some new pads.

Hey guys hoping for some help on this please, i replaced my front rotors and pads which largely cured my heavy judder under braking but its not gone completely. I'm still feeling a bit of pulsing under light braking in particular, could this be the rear rotors or something else?

Hey guys hoping for some help on this please, i replaced my front rotors and pads which largely cured my heavy judder under braking but its not gone completely. I'm still feeling a bit of pulsing under light braking in particular, could this be the rear rotors or something else?

Yeah rear rotors seem to cop a hard time; mine are ready for replacement.

These look like good value; http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/110711373098?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649#ht_500wt_1054

You can buy all the shims and springs on eBay, I'll post a link in the morning.

Buggered if i can find anything on the net, regarding anti-squeal plates.

May have to do a J-wrecker trawl.

I'll try and find some rears while i am there....

Buggered if i can find anything on the net, regarding anti-squeal plates.

May have to do a J-wrecker trawl.

I'll try and find some rears while i am there....

This is what I'm talking about.

http://www.ebay.com....9#ht_594wt_1037

The bit that people seem to lose is the corner shims (centre of the pic) these stop the pads knocking around in the caliper.

I've seen them cheaper; so it might be worth looking around a bit more.

Edited by Daleo

This is what I'm talking about.

http://www.ebay.com....9#ht_594wt_1037

The bit that people seem to lose is the corner shims (centre of the pic) these stop the pads knocking around in the caliper.

I've seen them cheaper; so it might be worth looking around a bit more.

Thanks heaps for that^

Its the search criteria that was getting me, I was trying things like "squeal+plate" etc with no result.

"Brake shim kit" wins.

I have not a single item installed in that picture.

Never mind.

If my wrecker trawl fails I will just get a set in from the US like shown.

Thanks again.

As for

Would 300ZX fit R33GTST 4 pots? And I guess i will need a set for the RS4 stock 2 pots.

My bendix box for the R34 pads said they matched 300zx, r32 gtr, r33gtst. and wrxs etc.

The original pads off my S2 RS4s calipers were heaps different compared to the 4 pot ones.

Edited by shane344

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
×
×
  • Create New...