Jump to content
SAU Community

Stagea Brakes

Sydneykid
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 1.6k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

chuckie
chuckie

IT is in a 1700KG WAGON & one built in 1998, with 298 mm Rotors ,just wonder off & play please .

Daleo
Daleo

We really are lucky to have you here to tell us how it is. Where have you been all my life? Also; Tyres, not tires. Welcome to Australia.

scotty nm35
scotty nm35

You put Bendix pads on a Brembo setup? Sacrilege...

Posted Images

Scriblez Enthusiast

Scriblez

Posted
Posted

hmm, are you saying that I could purchase a set of Slotted Rotors built for the 34GTT as long as I buy a set of Calipers as well?

I'm kind of looking to buy a full set of brand new slotted rotors that are completely interchangeable and require minimum to no modification to fit.

If anyone has part numbers or recommended Rotors, I'd appreciate it.

whitenight27 Proficient

whitenight27

Posted
Posted (edited)

yep that's what u can do.

the dumb ass guys here in Perth not hear what i said, i have a s1 not a s2 so the rear is 265mm some people piss me off.

now i have new 295mm rotors i cant use.will have to take them back glad i not take them out of the plastic but check it all first.

dose any1 know of a rotor with all the same specs as a skyline but only 265?

Edited by whitenight27
KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

Ok can u guys help me with info for fitting r33 rear brakes to my s1. Need to know of all the bits needed?

If they are the same as GTT brakes: calipers, pads. rotors. Need to trim the backing plate. You may need to pull the olives out of the calipers to convert to banjo fittings for the brake lines or vice versa.
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
shotpointblank Collaborator

shotpointblank

Posted
Posted

right guys cant seem to found the answers im looking for.. Ive got a rs4s stagea ive got r34 brakes to suit.. question is about braided lines will r34 braidlines work? notice each cailper have three seprate pieces.. some i see online are only two piece?

Pft shh 89 Collaborator

Pft shh 89

Posted
Posted

A little while ago i replaced my brake pads all round due to the fact that the rear left was metal on metal (the rest still had a fair bit on them but changed them anyway so they were all the same), while it was off i noticed one of the bar guide things in the caliper was a tiny bit bent. Hoping it wouldn't be too much of an issue i just put them back on. Turns out now it is an issue as the same corner has worn down again. rather than just find a new/secondhand caliper, i thought it might be a good reason to do a brake upgrade all round. Can anyone confirm the below for me? also should i be looking for new stuff or just go secondhand? and also will this be a reasonable upgrade or would i be better off going something bigger/different?

I have converted my S2 to all R34 gtt spec brakes (F+R) in my garage.

The rear dust covers needed a little trim around the caliper area, i just used tin snips, a file and pliers to bend the daggy bits.

From memory the front dust covers were fine.

The diameter of the rotors was close enough to just bend them a little where they touched.

I had the rear R34 soft lines but they dont match the Stagea at the chassis side where they join the hardlines.

I was able to pop the ferrule out of the caliper with a self tapper on both sets of calipers and use the original banjo fittings.

The rear banjo bolts needed abut 3mm taken off its length as they still bottomed out, took my time with a hack saw and a file and no dramas.

Also there is a fitting block bolted to the back of the rear R34 caliper that connected the soft line to a short hard line into the ferrule fitting.

I couldnt find a way of making the blocks work so they're in a box under my work bench with all the old Stag brake parts.

I have left the brake lines as per Stagea spec,

I used all the original Stag caliper bolts but they were the same as R34 ones.

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

The pad was dragging due to the bent pin, mine was the same when I bought it. I have no idea how one pin can bend but it seems to be common. You could simply straighten the in a vice using something soft so you don't mark it, then grease it up and re-fit them.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • codygrimm27
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By codygrimm27 · Posted

      Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      You think its the AFM? I know its a common issues on R32s. I find it coincidental how this issue raised right after cleaning the fuel system. As everything except the fuel system was fine before. I tried running it with the IACV unplugged but did not notice a difference and still stalled. However, the RPM gauge is not in the cluster right now, so I will need to connect the laptop again and use Nistune to check the RPM. I will check this weekend.
×
×
  • Create New...