Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, ive been wanting an r34 for a while now so ive been looking around

my major requirements are turbo, manual and coupe

ive found this one, the kit it has is MAD!! love it... but its n/a

a - im curious what kit it is?!

b - how expensive stupid is it to convert the n/a to a turbo

the car on carsales.com.au

Any thoughts or comments would be appreciated

thanks in advance

:rofl:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82229-so-i-want-to-buy-an-r34/
Share on other sites

You could import a turbo 5 speed for that price that he is asking for.

To convert to a turbo it would be ridiculously expensive and would most likely cost you more to convert than to buy one already done from factory.

You'd need to upgrade your gear box, brakes etc.

By the looks of that too, I reckon this bloke has thrashed it because of it's N/A factor by people trying to run him at lights :rofl: I could be wrong.

Check out the import sites dude, you'll find one at that price turbo manual and coupe.

A few import places I recommend are

www.j-spec.com.au

www.imports101.com.au

www.importcars.com.au

Import cars is REALLY good he will look after you.

Also Danny at imports 101 is great.

Good luck in your search mate.

-trel.

$26k is way too much for an na 34.

i got my R34 for about that price imported through J-Spec - manual, turbo & coupe. But, since then, i have yet to see one that cheap unless it's either an automatic, four door, or well over 100,000 k's.

I think the kit is a Bomex kit - because i was looking @ one for mine and it looked exactly like that one.

Hi all, ive been wanting an r34 for a while now so ive been looking around

my major requirements are turbo, manual and coupe

ive found this one, the kit it has is MAD!! love it... but its n/a

a - im curious what kit it is?!

b - how expensive stupid is it to convert the n/a to a turbo

the car on carsales.com.au  

Any thoughts or comments would be appreciated

thanks in advance

:rofl:

this guy is on these forums, ive seen the car around a few times in SE suburbs but ye its way too much for an NA

$26k is way too much for an na 34.

i got my R34 GTT for about that price imported through J-Spec - manual, turbo & coupe. But, since then, i have yet to see one that cheap unless it's either an automatic, four door, or well over 100,000 k's.

I think the kit is a Bomex kit - because i was looking @ one for mine and it looked exactly like that one.

i know someone who got a '98 R34 auto 4 door w/ only 40,000k's on it for $28k.. sure tis 2k more.. but still a damn good price..

i know someone who got a '98 R34 auto 4 door w/ only 40,000k's on it for $28k.. sure tis 2k more.. but still a damn good price..

I think that's expensive... in my earlier post i said "But, since then, i have yet to see one that cheap unless it's either an automatic, four door, or well over 100,000 k's". I've seen many auto R34's/four doors for about $20k, imported and that includes compliance.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not sure the US can import anything other than the C34 Stagea's, but if you can and you need to to tow, DO NOT under any circumstances get an M35 Stagea. If it is just as a family car and your country/state allows it, absolutely and definitely get an M35 (3.5L if possible as it is effectively a 350Z) over a C34.
    • Punch your VIN (nm35-xxxxxx) into Amayama.com You can see everything there quite easily.
    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
×
×
  • Create New...