Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well finally i bit the bullet and bought some Toyo Proxies RA1. These are a race tyre but are street legal similiar to the Bridgestone RE55. Im not expecting a very long life out of them but when you spend a fair bit of time spinning wheels, these are a huge releif. With the old Sumitunos HRZ 11's 255/40/17, 2nd gear wheel spin was at will as soon as boost hit. Good for showing off but not good for winning races. Now with these RA1's, i have 1st gear traction on the street and it is a rocket, no more hiding at traffic lights. Just for the record, i know RWD cars doing 1.6 60's with these tyres. Im not expecting 1.6, but if i can get 1.7/1.8 60's look out for a very low 12 and then i can drive it home. Perfecto.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82245-traction-like-a-gtr-from-a-gtst/
Share on other sites

The drag spec Nitto's is what you want for straight line.

They handle quite well also.

Whatsisname had them on his car when it was making some where from 260-290rwkw and ran a low 12 with his granny shifting. :P

I remember him telling me he can get almost all the power from first down and second also.

The drag spec Nitto's is what you want for straight line.

They handle quite well also.

Whatsisname had them on his car when it was making some where from 260-290rwkw and ran a low 12 with his granny shifting. :P

I remember him telling me he can get almost all the power from first down and second also.

Where do you buy Nittos from? and how much are they roughly?

I just found this on Toyo's website:

The Proxes RA1 has the same construction & tread compound as the Nitto NT555R Extreme Drag Radial, and therefore provides very similar performance.

Don't know if I believe it but interesting... anyone know the price diff?

The Proxes RA1 has the same construction & tread compound as the Nitto NT555R Extreme Drag Radial, and therefore provides very similar performance.

If Toyo's RA1 (which they advertise as a clubsport circuit racing tyre) has the same construction and tread compound as Nitto's NT555R (which is reknown as a drag tyre), then one of them is going to suck at their advertised function.

Drag tyres make shit circuit tyres, because of their weak sidewalls. And vice versa.

With the rubber compound and tread pattern, I don't doubt that the circuit tyre will provide good grip compared to your regular street tyre off the line, but its still not ideal.

If Toyo's RA1 (which they advertise as a clubsport circuit racing tyre) has the same construction and tread compound as Nitto's NT555R (which is reknown as a drag tyre), then one of them is going to suck at their advertised function.

Drag tyres make shit circuit tyres, because of their weak sidewalls. And vice versa.

With the rubber compound and tread pattern, I don't doubt that the circuit tyre will provide good grip compared to your regular street tyre off the line, but its still not ideal.

Refer to my original post, I know guys using these tyres at the drags and producing awesome launches. As for me, my car now bites hard.

If they cant do both (drag and cornering) why do alot of quick street cars use RE55's and also Ben from RacePace uses these on his track GTR.

The Toyo's are a great "cold start" tyre. On the track they are awesome for the first 2-3 laps. From that point on they go off like "Mums pants on Father's Day". Excellent hill climb tyre and for street -the only thing to look out for would be to make sure they are not overworked too much. A lot of high speed continuous cornering would see them go off. Once they do, they become very "squidgy".

Good tyre though - except they will probably wear fairly quickly.

The Toyo's are a great "cold start" tyre. On the track they are awesome for the first 2-3 laps. From that point on they go off like "Mums pants on Father's Day". Excellent hill climb tyre and for street -the only thing to look out for would be to make sure they are not overworked too much. A lot of high speed continuous cornering would see them go off. Once they do, they become very "squidgy".

Good tyre though - except they will probably wear fairly quickly.

So far i have noticed, i can still get wheelspin in 2nd when they are cold, but once they warm up, grip is phenominal. Im yet to try them down the 1/4 as yet but im predicting a nice drop in my times. I dont track race so i can't adivse you, but i only have them on the back so i would be understeering quite badly.

The Toyo's are a great "cold start" tyre. On the track they are awesome for the first 2-3 laps. From that point on they go off like "Mums pants on Father's Day". Excellent hill climb tyre and for street -the only thing to look out for would be to make sure they are not overworked too much. A lot of high speed continuous cornering would see them go off. Once they do, they become very "squidgy".

Good tyre though - except they will probably wear fairly quickly.

So which tyres are good for track days?

Those bloody A032Rs....did you guys run the 48s? I am interested to see if they will be any better....I am hoping Gordon will be out of stock of the 32s when I need to buy the next set :P

Pete and Terry were having a tricky time with the 48s apparently?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • With stone chips, you really can't just try to fill them. You really have to sand that spot to lower the edges of the chip, so that the filler will end up covering a wider patch than just the chip. Otherwise, you're trying to have a sharp edged paint surface match up to some filler, and they just do not sand the same and you always end up with a noticable transition. A bunch of adjacent chips should be well sanded back, to round off all those edges, and use a lot (in a relative sense) of filler to raise the whole area back.
    • To expand on this to help understanding... The bigger/longer the block is, the more it's going to work to sit on your far away high areas, and not touch the low stuff in the middle. When you throw the guide coat, and give it a quick go with a big block, guide coat will disappear in the high spots. If those high spots are in the correct position where the panel should be, stop sanding, and fill the low spots. However, using a small block, you "fall off" one of the high spots, and now your sanding the "side of the hill". Your little block would have been great for the stone chips, where you only use a very small amount of filler, so you're sanding and area let's say the size of a 5/10cent piece, with something that is 75*150. For the big panel, go bigger!   And now I'll go back to my "body work sucks, it takes too much patience, and I don't have it" PS, I thought your picture with coloured circles was an ultra sound... That's after my brain thought you were trying to make a dick and balls drawing...
    • Oh I probably didn't speak enough about the small sanding block for blocking large areas.  In the video about 3 minutes in, he talks about creating valleys in the panel. This is the issue with using a small sanding block for a large area, it's way too easy to create the valleys he is talking about. With a large block its much easier to create a nice flat surface.  Hard to explain but in practice you'll notice the difference straight away using the large block. 
    • Yep I guessed as much. You'll find life much easier with a large block something like this -  https://wholesalepaint.com.au/products/dura-block-long-hook-loop-sanding-block-100-eva-rubber-af4437 This is a good demo video of something like this in use -    You have turned your small rock chip holes into large low spots. You'll need to fill and block these low spots.  It's always a little hard not seeing it in person, but yes I would go ahead and lay filler over the whole area. Have a good look at the video I linked, it's a very good example of all the things you're doing. They went to bare metal, they are using guide coat, they are doing a skim coat with the filler and blocking it back. If what you're doing doesn't look like what they are doing, that's a big hint for you  
×
×
  • Create New...