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intercooler upgrade for R32 GTST

TTT

By TTT,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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BOOSTMEISTER Mentor

BOOSTMEISTER

Posted
Posted

I don't know where he got it and I will not find out because it was crap....and I don't recommend you buy crap, as it turned out it was only $150 less than one from ARE in Brisbane but the end result was well under half of ARE's quality.

To realise why it was so bad you have to understand that air must be able to travel as smoothly as possible. Here is a diagram of the cooler.

Problem 1.

On the inlet the actual inlet pipe infact protruded INTO the end tank about 20mm which basically stops the air from moving up to the top of the core

Problem 2.

The outlet has the same problem as the inlet however on the outlet it is even worse because the pipe comes through a big square shaped piece of alloy tank making it almost impossible for the air to smoothly flow out of the core.

Problem 3.

It isn't welded on the inside. Continual pressure of 15psi can actually burst the end tank open.

Problem 4.

The inlet and outlets are 2.5" (as requested) on the outside diameter of the pipe but the inside diameter is closer to 2"

Problem 5.

When he took it back to the guy to have the intruding pipes machined back the guy repositioned the inlet at a 30o angle DOWN so that when the piping was done the return pipe either had to run down at an angle or back under the car as it would actuall hit the inlet pipe.

Problem 6.

the welds were average and the way the outlet was welded on makes me believe that it may infact leak pressure as the weld didn't go all the way round.

The only redeeming feature of the cooler is that it is a K&J core which is very good.

This design is quite good if it is built correctly by someone that knows what they are doing and has access to a flow bench to test the design.

If you want to see the correct way to make a return type intercooler have a look at this other page of my site about half way down

BOOSTMEISTER Mentor

BOOSTMEISTER

Posted
Posted

The reason Meggala's is so much better than the one I installed is that the outlet is on the bottom not on the side, this allows the air to exit much better. A basic point to remember is that if air has to turn itself to go somewhere then you WILL loose pressure and air speed.

Zahos Mentor

Zahos

Posted
Posted

Gee thats pretty shocking!!!

I was thinking that there might be a flow restriction on the return tank, and that it would flow better if it followed the shape of the pipe rather than being square...

But how can you f*ck up the welding like that??? what a shocker!

So did it actually burst at 15psi, or is that an assumption you made based on the design.

--------------------

Meggala

Doctor recomended me a guy that made one just like yours (design) with a garret core for $550 (600 * 280 * 75), only the return pipe had sharper bends than yours. That is my only concern, otherwise doctor seems pretty confident that is of top quality cratmanship. I rang the guy a few times and he preasure tests them all before sending them off, and he tells me they flow quite well too. Well he must be doing something right because he appears to be quite busy.

Does that 45 degree bend restrict flow much? I'd imagine a rounded pipe would be much better.

Then again, I don't plan on running ALOT of boost, so it wouldn't be too bad for me.

I have attached a pic of how I would like the endtanks and piping to be made (touched up BOOSTMEISTERS pic :P). Would this be much more difficult to fabricate?

BOOSTMEISTER Mentor

BOOSTMEISTER

Posted
Posted

It hasn't burst yet but I imagine it will as he intends to run more than 1 bar.

In the end I ran the piping back the front...

turbo to (OUT)

(IN) to throttle body

This way the cooled air has less distance to travel.

Your design looks good, the hard part is going froma square end tank to a round pipe/outlet, this is where a lot of turbulance is created.

the other pic on my site of my friends intercooler that I installed has on .7psi (from turbo to throttle body)pressure drop even with the return like it is.

Zahos Mentor

Zahos

Posted
Posted

I looked at the pics, but could not see where the return pipe goes. does it run above or behind the core?

Also, a generic question for those of you with R33's, how much chopping did you have to do to get your cooler to fit? (Also specify dimensions of your cooler)

What about the bracket that holds the lock for the bonnet. (It runs on an angle in towards the radiator and has the horn attached to it). Did that need to removed/modified?

Thanks

Zahos

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

I'm going to take a few pics of my new shiny fmic this weekend.

Just a note I noticed that he has the longer running pipe carying the hot air to the inlet of the fmic which is on the right hand side of the car when sitting in it.

Hot air travels faster through pipes?? I really wonder if there would be any measurable differences if it was set up the other way around.

  • 2 weeks later...
Guest gee-wizz

Guest gee-wizz

Posted
Posted

Doctor recomended me a guy that made one just like yours (design) with a garret core for $550 (600 * 280 * 75), only the return pipe had sharper bends than yours. That is my only concern, otherwise doctor seems pretty confident that is of top quality cratmanship.

$550 :eek: no wonder the guy is busy! let us know how it turns out & who the guy is, coz i wouldn't mind getting in contact with him for that price:p

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

I think i was charged $565 for it, id take offers around $500.00.

I suggest Sydney buyers should only contemplate buying it as i suggest you view it before handing over money.

Not that it is damaged or anything, it is gel coated, unpainted, but i was surprised to see the quality of the moulding was not what i expected for close to $600.00.

Has provision for Nismo ducts and can offer some info on what is required to install on a GTS-T

Brody Experienced

Brody

Posted
Posted

Hey,

I got my r32 gtst on sat, in very good condition. Its all stock apart from a 3" exhaust from the engine. Theres a 2 stage boost controller in place, which is set to 7 and 14 psi. Ive pushed it hard on 14psi and its run totaly fine. Its got the standard toy IC and 1 of the stock plumback BOVs, the wheather has been on the cooler side while thrashing it.

Is it safe to run the turbo at this level? From what ive read from you guys im thinking no?

Brody Experienced

Brody

Posted
Posted

Ah i feel slightly more relaxed :rolleyes:

Ta for that.

My car went to CAS (croyden auto sports) today. The clutch has totaly gone, and needed to be towed. I used the bloke they refered me to, the car was picked up at 9am, and CAS said they got it round 12-1. I can't think of any reason why it would take so long, so im thinking wtf was happening to my car. Any1 have views on these guys? Everything id read so far, said they were good, hence taking it there.

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