Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got one and love it!

R34 GTT is a good all round car... it's got both the sporty aspect as well as the nice posh look of a semi-luxury car.

As for power and handling, can't complain - but saying that, these things are changable on both cars.

Stock for stock - 34 anyday!

The R34 is definitely heavier than the R33..Besides the looks of it...IMO R34 looks better but in performance wise...i think both are the same. Maybe the R33 might even be faster due to the weight difference..

Clearly a few people are unsure of the difference between a R33 GTT and a R34 GTT. In one word - MASSIVE. The R34 has a much much better engine (both stock, and as a base to do up), better turbo, better steering (super HICAS), better brakes, better body, better interior, etc etc etc. If you can remotely afford the extra few K's, go for the R34.

Ian

The R34GTT is nice. The NEO engine with VVT-I is quicker too, I think. Interior is much nicer too.

Though, whether it is or isn't worth upgrading from a 33GTST to a 34GTT is still a tough decision.

Personally if I were upgrading from a 33GTST I'd go for something a bit different, maybe the tried and true RZ TT 6Sp Supra or something not so everyday like a DC2 Type-R.

If you do go the GTT (which would still be a great car to own anyway), be careful how you mod it. GTTs can look absolutely horrid - like anorexic 34GTRs - with the wrong mods.

i have a 34gtt. Absolutely fantastic car!!!. However, my brother has a 1997 gtst that has been modded to the max. suspension, bigger turbo, brakes, major head work, greddy plenum, drag intercooler etc. His car for roughly the same money as a bone stock 34 is a far superior car. 33's are still phat either way you look at it. I cannot even begin to keep up with him on the freeway or in the hills.

So all in all i would say apart from the looks they are fairly similar and both fantastic platforms to modify or keep in stock trim and use as an everyday car.

I think the decision really rests on whether you want to have a racer or an everyday car.

The 34 is more unique there are less around and in close to stock trim say with an exhaust and fmic and filter go fairly hard really (good for an everyday car). But If you are a mad man like my brother :( and have the need for speed, for the same money as a 34 you can have a absolutely mental 33 which not much would keep up with straight line or in the hills.

..The 34 is more unique there are less around and in close to stock trim say with an exhaust and fmic and filter go fairly hard really (good for an everyday car).  But If you are a mad man like my brother :) and have the need for speed, for the same money as a 34 you can have a absolutely mental 33 which not much would keep up with straight line or in the hills.

Though if that is really what you are after (ie bang), get a R32 GTR and do it up :-) That's not a negative comment for the R34 (I have one and like it a lot) but if you are on a limited budget, and just want 'bang', an R32 GTR is your cheapest way of doing it..

I've owned 32's, 33's, and 34's (helped that I lived in tokyo for a while ;) ) and think the two best cars (excluding the R34 GTR which is still too expensive) are the R32GTR and the R34 GTT, for different reasons/purposes/costs..

Ian

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
×
×
  • Create New...