Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeah that's weird, because standard they are 7PSI, but as soon as you remove the exhaust restriction the boost bumps up alittle bit, usually stock to around 8-9psi.

Can I ask why you're only boosting 7PSI? I'd be up around the 10-12PSI mark myself with your mods.

ummm stock boost levels are all the same... they dont vary unless the boost has been uped from factory, its not like nissan said... yeah k this one can have 7psi and that one can have 8... lol.

and yeah 12psi is the max the stock turbo can handle before it goes boom i was told, even with an fmic and such they recommend not taking the factory turbo past 12psi.

JaR - When will you start to modify your car? Are you still running the factory boost solenoid? You are aware of how to remove the 2 stage boost from factory? That mod was a goodie... :)

as soon as i get it back ( its gettin re-sprayed at the moment ). umm nah lol, but wasnt there a tutorial on here about how to do that??? had pics and all was really detailed from memory...

  • 2 months later...
ummm stock boost levels are all the same... they dont vary unless the boost has been uped from factory, its not like nissan said... yeah k this one can have 7psi and that one can have 8... lol.

and yeah 12psi is the max the stock turbo can handle before it goes boom i was told, even with an fmic and such they recommend not taking the factory turbo past 12psi.

and I am sure they also told you that 12psi or more, and the ecu goes onto the rich and retard maps? Dropping off about 30rwkw - 40rwkw, making your car surge like a bitch.

10psi is the best performing, until you get a better ecu.

So 10 psi,Turbo back exhaust, filter, fmic, power fc. would anything else be required if someone does these mods?? Like fuel pump,injectors etc?? Im wanting to do the above mods but want to make sure I do it the right way first time round with all the required equipment to make the car run safe but with alot more power.

My series 2 has similar mods to urs. Turbo back exhaust, FMIC, power FC, pod (did my own piping to get some more cold air in near the pod bcoz of the crap boxing it in) and bov. It handles 11-12PSI no sweat. no spikes etc. I havent intalled a boost controller which i been meaning to do. Just make sure u get your chip mapped spot on and you'll be sweet.

I heard stories about maybe upgrading the fuel rails or pump to be able to feed it high up in the revs. I gave it a go and found it didnt make that much of a difference. I was prob running rich, and didnt really tune it but it went fine without. Spose u dont want to be pumping to much juice in it these days anyway. Petrol prices are doing my a$$ in.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...