R32 Gtr Club/circuit Susp. Recommendations

[RH9]

Hi everyone,

Finally the old girl is handling well, listed below is what i've done so far. Just wanted some advice from those of you who have gone further and are getting good results.

-3/4 roll cage

-front/rear strut braces

-Grid TS Dancer TSC set to 20% front (alot more neutral)

-Tein HA's

-Hi-Cas removal kit

-solid rear sub-frame cradle bushes

-rose jointed rear camber arms

-rose jointed front camber arms

-rose jointed front radius/castor rods

-Cusco 25mm sway bar

-Cusco tension bar

-ABS removed

Car handles nice and flat now and is really "quick" to change direction - esp. since the front sway bar.

Do you think a thicker rear sway bar will make it more tail happy or improve handling? I like the oversteer but I am trying to stay more neutral to keep up with Evo's through 120-140kph corners.

Any advice appreciated - just bear in mind the car is road legal and only an occassional track racer.

Thanks

[djr81]

Do you think a thicker rear sway bar will make it more tail happy or improve handling?  I like the oversteer but I am trying to stay more neutral to keep up with Evo's through 120-140kph corners. 

Any advice appreciated - just bear in mind the car is road legal and only an occassional track racer.

Thanks

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Sway bars should be used to balance the handling front to rear. I just bought an adjustable H/duty sway bars from Whiteline - Rear is $260ish (Code BNR26XZ - note the code on the whiteline pdf sheet is WRONG!). You can then balance the car better & aren't locked into one particular setting. Well worth a look.

[RH9]

Sway bars should be used to balance the handling front to rear.  I just bought an adjustable H/duty sway bars from Whiteline - Rear is $260ish (Code BNR26XZ - note the code on the whiteline pdf sheet is WRONG!).  You can then balance the car better & aren't locked into one particular setting. Well worth a look.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Thanks for that mate, i'll get a rear bar as well and try that. Is the whiteline bar adjustable?

Also any of you guys racing R32 GTR's......do you feel R34 GTR Brembo's are adequite when used on a 32? I can get my hands on a set but was thinking it might not be enough - ie: fade after a few laps. My friend says Brembo 355mm F50 is the way to go but i'm not too keen on spending that much if the 324mm Brembo's are enough.

Any advice or experience on this appreciated also

[Sydneykid]

Thanks for that mate, i'll get a rear bar as well and try that.  Is the whiteline bar adjustable?

Also any of you guys racing R32 GTR's......do you feel R34 GTR Brembo's are adequite when used on a 32?  I can get my hands on a set but was thinking it might not be enough - ie: fade after a few laps. My friend says Brembo 355mm F50 is the way to go but i'm not too keen on spending that much if the 324mm Brembo's are enough.

Any advice or experience on this appreciated also

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

It really depends on how fast the car goes around corners and what sort of tyres it has. If it has a lot power and handles crap, then you need bigger brakes. If it has good power and handles really well then the standard R32GTR Nissan callipers, with good rotors (DBA) and pads (Hawk carbons) work just fine.

cheers

[djr81]

Thanks for that mate, i'll get a rear bar as well and try that.  Is the whiteline bar adjustable?

Any advice or experience on this appreciated also

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Yes they are. You can get both front and rear adjustable bars which are both thicker than standard & also solid instead of hollow. Give Whiteline a call they are pretty good.

Between tyre pressures & adjustable roll bars there is enough to get you completely lost on set up. Well I do anyway. So good luck.

SK, out of interest how much gees under brakes do you get with the stock rotors & Hawk pads?

[Beer Baron]

Yes they are.  You can get both front and rear adjustable bars which are both thicker than standard & also solid instead of hollow.  Give Whiteline a call they are pretty good. 

Between tyre pressures & adjustable roll bars there is enough to get you completely lost on set up.  Well I do anyway.  So good luck.

SK, out of interest how much gees under brakes do you get with the stock rotors & Hawk pads?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I think you'll find that tyres you use become the limit regarding how much gees you can pull under braking. The stock GTR brakes with good condition (rebuilt) calipers, braided lines, good pads and rotors will be able to out brake the amount of grip you have available from your tyres except maybe full slicks. the main advantage you'll get from the bigger rotor set-ups is resistance to fade.

[djr81]

I think you'll find that tyres you use become the limit regarding how much gees you can pull under braking. The stock GTR brakes with good condition (rebuilt) calipers, braided lines, good pads and rotors will be able to out brake the amount of grip you have available from your tyres except maybe full slicks. the main advantage you'll get from the bigger rotor set-ups is resistance to fade.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Hmm, well the data logger (G-Tech) is spitting out 1.35 gees lateral. Best braking is just over 1.0 gee. This on RB74's pads (Friction coefficient of 0.45) which are ok.

Hence the question.

There again maybe I just need to grow some bollocks.

[Beer Baron]

Hmm, well the data logger (G-Tech) is spitting out 1.35 gees lateral.  Best braking is just over 1.0 gee.  This on RB74's pads (Friction coefficient of 0.45) which are ok.

Hence the question. 

There again maybe I just need to grow some bollocks.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

that is quite interesting. I would suggest that you need pads with a better coefficient of friction for better stopping. the RB74s do have good temp handling but I don't think they are the most agressive pad out there as they are still a 'fast road' type of pad. are you able to reach abs? I don't mean by just stomping hard on the brakes though, i mean by a smooth hard braking application? i guess it depends on the tires too.

[djr81]

that is quite interesting. I would suggest that you need pads with a better coefficient of friction for better stopping. the RB74s do have good temp handling but I don't think they are the most agressive pad out there as they are still a 'fast road' type of pad. are you able to reach abs? I don't mean by just stomping hard on the brakes though, i mean by a smooth hard braking application? i guess it depends on the tires too.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Not really sure. I previously couldn't, but just changed out my (leaking) master cylinder which may have helped things. I try to be smooth, but find I spend alot of time on the circuit tyring hard not to be crap.

Tyres are RE55's, so quite grippy, especially on the resurfaced Wanneroo. Locks things up fine on road tyres.

From the list in Race magazine the highest coefficients were only about 0.5, so I don't know if there is a huge difference in the pads themselves.

[Duncan]

That's really interesting I'm surprised you got to 1.35 lateral G that is pretty high even with great tyres like that.....did you ever have a spin while you were logging the Gs? I scored a 1.32G in my gtst but it needed a 170km/h spin at Wakefield to do it

Normally your max Gs are done under braking since it is easier to get to and repeat max braking than it is to get cornering spot on?

[djr81]

That's really interesting I'm surprised you got to 1.35 lateral G that is pretty high even with great tyres like that.....did you ever have a spin while you were logging the Gs?  I scored a 1.32G in my gtst but it needed a 170km/h spin at Wakefield to do it

Normally your max Gs are done under braking since it is easier to get to and repeat max braking than it is to get cornering spot on?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

A spin at 170km/h! How puckered is the seat trim?

My R understeers quite doggedly at present, so over cooking it usually involves running wide & scrubbing off speed that way. Note that the surface of the racetrack makes a big difference to the grip available. At less grippy tracks you can knock off a tenth or more quite easily.

I find it a bit the opposite, ie it is easier to generate good laterals than be a hero & be last of the late brakers into the corners. Will have to get out there again & mash the anchors to see the peak numbers it an generate.

[RH9]

Thanks for the feedback guys, i'm taking the car to Taupo in 2 weeks to test the new changes - its a very tight and quite technical track so good for chassis tuning. Problem is my car is far from standard and a near stock Evo 6 can match my time with only 350-400bhp!!

I know an R32 GTR isnt a new car anymore but I still believe with enough time and money spent it can still do ok in the tight stuff.

The car has around 700hp at the crank (440rwkw) but I only use around 550hp at Taupo. Tyres are semi-slicks, brake pads are 750 degree Apexi's.

After 5-6 laps i get bad brake fade.

I'm considering buying these R34 GTR Brembo's but dont want to waste my time if they wont be up to the task.

Any of you guys with 32's fitted with Brembo's able to give me an idea of how much better they cope against the standard brakes??

Thanks again, as you can tell i'm keen to improve the car's ability so I dont have Evo's on my bumper in the tight stuff - well not 350hp ones anyway

[Sydneykid]

Thanks for the feedback guys, i'm taking the car to Taupo in 2 weeks to test the new changes - its a very tight and quite technical track so good for chassis tuning.  Problem is my car is far from standard and a near stock Evo 6 can match my time with only 350-400bhp!!

I know an R32 GTR isnt a new car anymore but I still believe with enough time and money spent it can still do ok in the tight stuff.

The car has around 700hp at the crank (440rwkw) but I only use around 550hp at Taupo. Tyres are semi-slicks, brake pads are 750 degree Apexi's.

After 5-6 laps i get bad brake fade.

I'm considering buying these R34 GTR Brembo's but dont want to waste my time if they wont be up to the task.

Any of you guys with 32's fitted with Brembo's able to give me an idea of how much better they cope against the standard brakes??

Thanks again, as you can tell i'm keen to improve the car's ability so I dont have Evo's on my bumper in the tight stuff - well not 350hp ones anyway 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

What capacity is the engine? If it is still 2.6 litres then you have a lag problem, that's why the Evos can keep up. What turbos do you have? We have found 700 bhp is too much for a 2.6 litre, the throttle response drops off dramatically over 600 bhp. So you can't drive it around the corners wiht any throttle control.

When you say "brake fade" is that fluid or pads? Have you removed the tin backing plates? They hold the heat in too much. What wheels? We have found that they make a big difference. Brake ducting? Have you tried some temperature sensitive paint on the edge of the rotors and the back of the pads? That will tell you what you are dealing with.

Personally I would be spending my money on increasing the cornering speeds, not improving the brakes.

cheers

[Mr R32 M-Spec]

Hey guys

Sorry to interrupt

I have a 32 GTR aswell, and I was wondering do Sway bars make that much of a difference? someone mentioned to me theyshould be the last thing I do on it.

I have the following so far

NISMO Rear Upper and Lower arms

NISMO aluminuim Cradle Bushes

Front strut brace (cusco)

OHLINS Coilovers

any thoughs

[djr81]

Hey guys

Sorry to interrupt

I have a 32 GTR aswell, and I was wondering do Sway bars make that much of a difference? someone mentioned to me theyshould be the last thing I do on it.

I have the following so far

NISMO Rear Upper and Lower arms

NISMO aluminuim Cradle Bushes

Front strut brace (cusco)

OHLINS Coilovers

any thoughs

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Have a look at the attachment. This is my GT-R at Wanneroo with uprated springs & stock anti roll bars. I went home sea sick that day. So, yeah, anti roll bars are definately on the things to do list.

They make a large difference. Not least to the likelihood of keeping your lunch down. Gone for some Whiteline sway bars, but I haven't got an after photo yet. Sorry.

Oh, and before anyone starts bagging me out Cat corner at Wanneroo has a REALLY late apex.

[RH9]

What capacity is the engine?  If it is still 2.6 litres then you have a lag problem, that's why the Evos can keep up.  What turbos do you have? We have found 700 bhp is too much for a 2.6 litre, the throttle response drops off dramatically over 600 bhp.  So you can't drive it around the corners wiht any throttle control.

When you say "brake fade" is that fluid or pads?  Have you removed the tin backing plates?  They hold the heat in too much.  What wheels?  We have found that they make a big difference.  Brake ducting?  Have you tried some temperature sensitive paint on the edge of the rotors and the back of the pads?  That will tell you what you are dealing with.

Personally I would be spending my money on increasing the cornering speeds, not improving the brakes.

cheers

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Yes thinking about what your saying and your right, I either get compressor surge at lower throttle openings mid corner of it goes nuts as the turbo's kick in. They are GT25R hybrids which are prob half way between a 2530 and a GT-RS in terms of output. Engine is still a 2.6 litre but has been uprated.

I dont get a soft pedal when the fade occurs so it must be brake discs overheating - not the fluid.

What is the purpose of the backing plates anyway? Do i need them? Removing them and running decent brake ducts does make sense.

Oh and those of you who are running stock sway bars - your going to get a huge increase in steering response and confidence if you upgrade to thick er ones!! It was truly one of the best chassis mods i've done and funnily enough the cheapest!!

Thanks guys, if you reckon I dont need the backing plates i'll rip those off before my next outing

[someonestolecc]

Just out of interest are the backing plates just a big round piece of metal on the inner (undercar) side of the rotor that has a tapered edge all round the rotor?

Do they come with r32 gtst rotors?

[Beer Baron]

yeah CC that's what they are. pretty much every road car made has them. they are to stop rocks and shit from getting in there. but it's no big deal to take 'em off.

[Sydneykid]

Hey guys

Sorry to interrupt

I have a 32 GTR aswell, and I was wondering do Sway bars make that much of a difference? someone mentioned to me theyshould be the last thing I do on it.

I have the following so far

NISMO Rear Upper and Lower arms

NISMO aluminuim Cradle Bushes

Front strut brace (cusco)

OHLINS Coilovers

any thoughs

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Stabiliser bars are the FIRST mod I do

cheers

[Sydneykid]

1. Yes thinking about what your saying and your right, I either get compressor surge at lower throttle openings mid corner of it goes nuts as the turbo's kick in. They are GT25R hybrids which are prob half way between a 2530 and a GT-RS in terms of output.  Engine is still a 2.6 litre but has been uprated.

2. I dont get a soft pedal when the fade occurs so it must be brake discs overheating - not the fluid.

3. What is the purpose of the backing plates anyway?  Do i need them?  Removing them and running decent brake ducts does make sense.

4. Oh and those of you who are running stock sway bars - your going to get a huge increase in steering response and confidence if you upgrade to thick er ones!!  It was truly one of the best chassis mods i've done and funnily enough the cheapest!!

Thanks guys, if you reckon I dont need the backing plates i'll rip those off before my next outing

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Suggestions follow;

1. I wouldn't recommend anything bigger than 2530's on a circuit GTR 2.6 litre. And I am not alone, almost all the fast Jap workshop GTR's use 2530's on the circuit.

2. Most likely pads overheating, good quality rotors work fine up to 1400 degrees.

3. Backing plates have to go, both front and rear. They are only usefull on road cars that see a lot of broken surfaces, they help stop small rocks and stones getting caught between the rotor and the calliper. Plus help retain a bit of heat when driving on the freeeway or in the rain. Removing them makes a huge difference in reducing the trapped heat, do it NOW.

4. Stabiliser bars are the FIRST suspension mod I do on any car, then alignment (camber & caster) then shocks, springs are last on my list. Quite often I don't do springs at all on road cars, just makes the ride rough and doesn't help the handling one bit. Stabiliser bar upgrades are the single best bang for buck upgrade you can do.

cheers