Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My door has got this dent in it and i got a quote from the smash reapirs for $300 and they told me i had to take the door apart and they would have to respray the whole thing.

I was thinking of just spraying touch-up paint over the parts where the paint has flaked off.......is this a good idea for the moment to prevent rust or get it fixed asap

post-19216-1123841050.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/83868-how-much-would-u-pay-to-fix-a-dent/
Share on other sites

all depends on the quality of the job and whether it'll be a patch up or a respray

ive seen some advertisements for mobile detailers which might be cheaper (dunno bout the quality tho).. they come to your place and just paint the paint chips and from the pics.. looks aiight :)

p.s are you one of my brother's friends? cherrybrook hs?

I got quoted $500 bucks for a repaint on a dented front quarter panel (Which wasn't being panel beated, just replaced) and a scrathed door AND I had to get the panel myself... thought that was a bit much!! So I just got the panel myself for eighty bucks, close enough colour, and used some dodgy touchup paint I found in the boot of my car in a very deep hole... :D

Oh yeh was a cash job too.

the guy that sprayed my car charged me 2500, but ive brought him in over 40k worth of other work. he fixed some damage (rear right panel, bonnet, and straightening of the whole body) he also sprayed my intercooler piping and my windscreen wipers.. he sprayed inside the boot and under the bonnet too, but not the engine bay.

Mate,

If you want to do it yourself and if its your first time at spraypainting/applying putty/quickstop putty/sanding have a read up on articles to do with repairing and spraying. I can give you a quick rundown and by quick i mean cutting corners.

1. Use wet and dry 600 grit sandpaper(hence wet and dry, WET the sandpaper) and take the gloss off the door.

2. After that is done, apply body filler/putty wait til dry.

3. use coarse sandpaper 60-80grit sand it back til smooth.

4. Keep applying 2-3 until it is smooth and everything follows contours.

5. Repair any other dents etc..

6. Spray with primer apply like 4 coats.

7. Sand back with wet and dry 400 until smooth.

8. Check for any pinholes/uneveniness and apply quick stop putty.

9.Wait 4 hrs til dry. Sand back til smooth.

10.Repeat 8-9 til there are no pinholes everything smooth.

11. Spray with paint apply around 4-6 coats depends on your spraying(PRACTICE PRACTICE PRACTICE!)

12.Wait til dry(3 days) polish it.

13. Apply clear lacquer again depending on your spraying depends on coats, spray til glossy.

14.Wait 3 days then polish, then done!

Cheers,

Kory.

$300.00 sounds alright for that type of damage... I just had a section of my front bar resprayed recently and that was $200 (no beating, just sand, fibreglass and spray)

Go for the $300. it sounds ok.

well as a guide i got some cheap stuff done ... front bar and grile sanded , refibreglassed and resprayed... sideskirt refibreglassed as it was cracked to the absolute shit, then resprayed and then stealthwing (which was just raw fibregalss) preped, primed, fitted and painted all for $700

-Ruffels

$300 sounds good.. i had a 1inch mark on my passenger side door plus a 2 meter scratch on the rear from some stupid B*&ch.. total was in the high $600, the door only cost me 150 though because they were already blending the paint into the door from the 2m scratch, therefore $300 for your door compared to $150 for my 1inch scrape is pretty good.. also as TracidTrax suggested if you wanna save money take off the door and sand it all down yourself (saves labour cost) and maybe go to a paint shop and buy/ supply your own paint but make sure the panel beaters allow you to supply your own paint.. i dont know much but these were some tips from my cousin..

hope all goes well..

regards,

-SHONG86-

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
    • When you pulled it off, there is no signs of blown head gasket? Is it possible you have some other issues going on? Possible cracked blocked? Or do you think it's straight up lifting the head? Did you check what the head was torqued to before pulling it down (To see if possibly they're stretching, or starting to break threads out etc)?
    • Seems like a decent result for a modded JZX110. They are bulky in comparison to the 100 and 90 models (which I'd prefer myself) but they are getting very few and far between here in JP these days. Thanks for the detailed review and the import process into the UK. I also have a car which I'm hoping to export from Japan at some stage so it's good to know if someone from the UK was interested in it. By the way the corrosion underneath is par for the course for cars which were located in/near the mountains or along the Japan sea coastline. They get huge amounts of snow every winter and the sodium chloride is used on the roads. Many cars have some kind of rubber like treatment underneath but they tend to limit it to the wheel arches underbody and fuel tank. Suspension arms and sub-frames will have similar corrosion to your JZX110 which is a common sight. See it all the time and car dealers here generally don't even mention it unless asked.
    • If the sound goes away when you clutch in, the 1.5/2 way diffs are just shit, and you are a normal person. The diff is likely "fine" but driving at anything under 30kmh is a violent horrible experience. It would be exaggerated with solid diff bushings and subframe bushings if you have those.
×
×
  • Create New...