Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

18x10 +30 (235/40) on rear or 34, clears coilover and standard guards, will need to roll if going 255 + tyre size.

should be able to fit +10 to +15 offset with rolled guards (will try when i get some spacer action happening) - pics up soon after i fit them up.

+1 to CE28N, very nice wheels :P

Skyline model = R32 GTS-t

Wheel diameter = 17

Wheel width =8F, 9R

Wheel offset = +25F, +35R

Tyre size =215F, 225R

Modifications to fit = No spacers required, they sit flush as on the front, rears come out about 4mm, stock suspension and guards.

tried my mates work vs 18x9+4,18x10+9s on today,sat mint as car looked so tough

Skyline model = r32 gtst

wheel diameter =18"

wheel width = 9f,10r

wheel offset = +4front,+9 rear

tyre size = 225 f,235 r

mods to fit- massaged the guards a bit

currently running work equips

wheel diameter = 17"

wheel size = 8f,9r

wheel offsets = +5f,+15r

tyre size = 205/45f, 235/45 rear

pics of both when I get to a computer

so im gonna need a bit of help fitting these bad boys.

Skyline model = r32 gtst

wheel diameter = 18'' rear and 17'' front

wheel width = 9'' all round

wheel offset = +6 rear and +/-0 front

tyre size = 225 rear and 205 front

got a few crappy fone pics....

rear im hoping to get way with some neg camber.

front ill prob need to flare and run some neg camber (front is going to get dropped a bit more as well lol)

post-30273-1251985523_thumb.jpg

post-30273-1251985540_thumb.jpg

yeh 215 on the rear, or 205 if ur not too fussed about traction back there, then as much camber as u need to slide it under. u obviously dont want too much if ur still after traction, massaging the guards just a little bit might be a better solution.

for the front just camber the f**k out of it, R33 LCA's will help, but they tend to push the bottom out more than pull the top in to give u camber. for maximum clearance from camber ur better off with some adjustable upper arms and shorten them, something around -3.5 should do it id imagine, but just keep going til it fits in. front guards are easy as piss to pull out a bit if u need a bit more clearance.

controlarms.jpg

Nisskid, how would I go about bringing the top of my rear wheels (17x9+35) in a bit? They currently stick out about 4mm when looking down at them on stock suspension and guards. Ive been told more than one way and I'm confused haha

Skyline model = CPV35

Wheel diameter = 20"

Wheel width = 9.5F & 10.5R

Wheel offset = ET22

Tyre size = 255/30/20F & 285/30/20R

Modifications to fit = slight roll of rear guard

Nisskid, how would I go about bringing the top of my rear wheels (17x9+35) in a bit? They currently stick out about 4mm when looking down at them on stock suspension and guards. Ive been told more than one way and I'm confused haha

is it a scrubbing issue? also what size tyre.

there is really only one way to "pull" a tyre in, and that's to add camber. unfortunately at the rear once uve lowered ur 32 even a little bit the dynamic camber gives u way too much camber on the rear for the street, so adding more camber will just make ur car perform even worse. if there are scrubbage issues, roll ur guards (assuming u havnt already as 9" +35 shouldnt be scrubbing, unless ur running maybe a 255/45).

is it a scrubbing issue? also what size tyre.

there is really only one way to "pull" a tyre in, and that's to add camber. unfortunately at the rear once uve lowered ur 32 even a little bit the dynamic camber gives u way too much camber on the rear for the street, so adding more camber will just make ur car perform even worse. if there are scrubbage issues, roll ur guards (assuming u havnt already as 9" +35 shouldnt be scrubbing, unless ur running maybe a 255/45).

Stretched 225/45/17 (Came with rims). No scrubbing issue, I'd just like to tuck the top in a little extra - so bring in the top of the tyre 2-4mm. I do plan on lowering about 25mm, will this get me that little bit more camber? Also guards are not rolled.

Thanks for your help :domokun:

So I've posted in this thread in the Motorsport section of the forum but didn't quite get a full answer.

I'll keep it short, went looking for rims, couldn't find what I liked second hand, so found Enkei RPF1's for <$1700 delivered brand new, they're lightweight which was my main thing.

These rims are going to be track only rims for an R33 GTR, it currently runs stock GTR 17x9+30 rims.

The plan is to keep it 17inch, I have choices of:

17x9+35 (or +18)

17x9.5+18 (or +38)

17x10+18

From the wheel offset calculator its:

17x9.5 is 6mm more inner clearance and 18mm extra sticking out

17x10 is 1mm less inner clearance and 25mm extra sticking out

The plan was to not have to re-tune suspension after switching, and the 255/40/17 tyres are cheaper than 265/40/17 which says 9.5" from my point of view.

Any advice?

P.S. Nisskid, excellent guide on rims, I tried reporting that your links to the wheel offset calculator are broken but no response, they now need to be "tire" instead of "tyre".

Stretched 225/45/17 (Came with rims). No scrubbing issue, I'd just like to tuck the top in a little extra - so bring in the top of the tyre 2-4mm. I do plan on lowering about 25mm, will this get me that little bit more camber? Also guards are not rolled.

Thanks for your help :)

lowering will give u extra dynamic camber, so as u lower ur car the top of the tyre does tuck in a bit. hence why when ur car is off the ground, the tyre sits right out of the guard, then when u drop the car back down it settles in.

So I've posted in this thread in the Motorsport section of the forum but didn't quite get a full answer.

I'll keep it short, went looking for rims, couldn't find what I liked second hand, so found Enkei RPF1's for <$1700 delivered brand new, they're lightweight which was my main thing.

These rims are going to be track only rims for an R33 GTR, it currently runs stock GTR 17x9+30 rims.

The plan is to keep it 17inch, I have choices of:

17x9+35 (or +18)

17x9.5+18 (or +38)

17x10+18

From the wheel offset calculator its:

17x9.5 is 6mm more inner clearance and 18mm extra sticking out

17x10 is 1mm less inner clearance and 25mm extra sticking out

The plan was to not have to re-tune suspension after switching, and the 255/40/17 tyres are cheaper than 265/40/17 which says 9.5" from my point of view.

Any advice?

P.S. Nisskid, excellent guide on rims, I tried reporting that your links to the wheel offset calculator are broken but no response, they now need to be "tire" instead of "tyre".

17x10 +18 would be my pick for a R33 GTR. 9" +35 is too thin and offset is too high, +18 is a bit better than standard, but if u were going to have a 17x9 id stick with stock R33 GTR rims as they are better quality than the enkeis. 17x9.5 +38 is too high offset, +18 would work, but honestly if i was going to spend the $$ id do it right first time and go 10" wide. gives u more options.

can anyone foresee any troubles with 17x8.5 +32 (F) & 17x9.5 +28 ® going onto a R33 gtst with stock suspension. not really after the stretch look on tyres (not my thing) as it will be for street use only, no track work at all

I will be upgrading the suspenion at a later stage (possibly something like the HSD twin tube coilovers)

can anyone foresee any troubles with 17x8.5 +32 (F) & 17x9.5 +28 ® going onto a R33 gtst with stock suspension. not really after the stretch look on tyres (not my thing) as it will be for street use only, no track work at all

I will be upgrading the suspenion at a later stage (possibly something like the HSD twin tube coilovers)

will be fine

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, totally get that. However hooking in for Generator back up is only a few hundred bucks for the wiring. You could put a couple of those in (for different circuits explicitly) and run a couple of baby generators. Bonus, you can balance them across different circuits, and now have backups in your backup. I'm looking at buying places that won't even have water etc, and I don't mind the idea of getting off the electric grid either, even with everything you've said. This country already has enough power outages that even the mains grid isn't that reliable anymore. I do agree though on spending a bit more to get better gear, and to add some extra redundancy in to the system too.
    • You can set hard reserves on your battery system, and it can't be discharged past that.  
    • That sounds like an excellent idea. But total self-sufficiency means exactly that. You have no-one else to blame when your system faults out and you have no power for a week or two while it gets fixed. You'd have to go the whole hog and get a diesel genny and all the switchover gear, to get you through such times. And, despite the fact that over 20 years, my system has been pretty reliable**, I have seen so many inverter explosions (or less dramatic deaths), panel and roof JB fires, and so on, over that time, to know that the stuff is the same as any other bulk Chinese manufactured stuff. The failure rate is well above zero - both on the equipment and on behalf of the meth addled installation labour force. And then..... warranty and means of redress against the supplier you bought the gear from. Best I can tell is that only a handful of solar companies are still around within 5 years of starting their advertising pitch. They disappear and phoenix like crazy. So, as per 1st paragraph, I suspect the only way to is go balls deep and spend maybe 2-3 times as much as you might think, so that you have every base covered. Plus, know and understand your gear intimately, so you can diagnose problems, sort them out yourself, etc, etc. Plus, probably have to consider upgrading various parts as the years pass, to maintain compatibility with newer stuff, performance and reliability, etc, etc. Whereas, remaining attached to the grid has an ongoing cost that keeps going up even if you use bugger all power from it. But it does provide the fallback in case of the worst case with your own gear. You either pay up front or as you go, I suspect.
    • Add more solar panels to the array. Call the electricity company and tell them you're moving out... Live off grid electric wise
    • Hi Jasmine. How's the war going?
×
×
  • Create New...