Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I would have thought you would have scrubbing issues on fronts. I could be wrong though.

I've seen TE37s this size on a 34 gtr, would that sizing clearance be the same for different style wheels? And would coil overs also effect the clearance?

I've seen TE37s this size on a 34 gtr, would that sizing clearance be the same for different style wheels? And would coil overs also effect the clearance?

The only difference between 2 wheels of the same offset and size would be dependent on the style of rim - whether it clears the brakes. I have a friend who has 8 pots on the front, and VERY few rims fit because of the clearance needed. He has Te37s and Lmgt4s or whatever sitting in his garage that he had on beforehand that won't fit now cause of his brakes - this is very rare though, and it is only because his brakes are $15000 to keep up with his 1000hp rb3.15.

And I wouldn't have thought coils would affect the clearance too much as a low offset like that should be pushing the rim out fairly far. I don't own a 34 GTR though so I am not the expert to be talking to.

Have a look at this and judge for yourself: http://www.willtheyfit.com/index.php?width=245&aspect=40&diameter=18&wheelwidth=9&offset=30&width2=255&aspect2=40&diameter2=19&wheelwidth2=10.5&offset2=22&Submit=Submit

Pretty sure GTR rims are 18x9+30 (not 100% sure).. If we assume you have safe fitment tyres, say 245/40, and slap some stretch on the 10.5s, say 255/40, you can see in the picture the new rims are going to sit 27mm further out (poke) but also 11mm in further (inset) which I would have thought would be easily enough clearance inside the guards.

Edited by voncina

Looking at some starcorps for my R32 GTST, 18x8.8 and 18x9.5 +38, will these fit a moderately low 32 GTST with no guard work? If not what guard work would need to be done?

I would find it hard to think 9.5+38 would not have scrubbing issues on the inside of the wheel (suspension, arms, etc) Not sure about 32's though.

And 18x8.8? May want to revise measurements.

Sorry 18x8.5 and 18x9.5 +38.

So you think they'll hit suspension arms and/or coilsovers?

I can't be too sure, I have only really been doing research on 34s, and to a lesser extent, 33s because the gap is much the same.

What kind of rims are you running at the moment? Based on the 34 stock rims, if I slapped those rims on my car it would most definatly rub on the rears, they are sitting 30mm further INSIDE the guards, closer to the suspension then stock rims. The sizes you have seem ok, I would just revise the offset.

A guard roll will only set you back $100, and it is worth getting. I will do some research and see what I can find for you.

EDIT: After researching a bit on 32s, yours will fit fine. Rears will be close to hicas on rears, and it if it is too low you will need to lip the guards.

Such poor offsets on 32s..

Edited by voncina

15x10 -26 Superlites 205/50 all round

not the best pictures but once its going again ill get it out and take better ones

post-71390-0-81092100-1343285442_thumb.jpgpost-71390-0-15347900-1343285385_thumb.jpg

I realise not everyone will like it but I do haha

Dude that is sex. Very JDM.

Who gives a f**k if no one likes it. Haters gonna hate!

I'm getting everything engineered on my r32 gtst and I got knocked back due to my rims being outside the guards, the engineer said all I need to do is roll my guards. I was planning on new rims in about 6 months but I thought I might as well get them now an get them engineered too.

I've been looking at work xt7s 18s @ 7.5 wide fronts an 8.5 rear as well as 18 inch rota grids with a similar width front an back. White or bronze, haven't decided yet

I don't know much about wheel offsets and my current rims don't have any info stamped on them. My question is what offsets would make them fit nicely within the guards? Paint is only 2 months old and I'm not too keen about rolling the guards just in case it cracks the paint..

Any advice would be appreciated as I said I don't know much about this subject and I'm doing lots of research

I'm getting everything engineered on my r32 gtst and I got knocked back due to my rims being outside the guards, the engineer said all I need to do is roll my guards. I was planning on new rims in about 6 months but I thought I might as well get them now an get them engineered too.

I've been looking at work xt7s 18s @ 7.5 wide fronts an 8.5 rear as well as 18 inch rota grids with a similar width front an back. White or bronze, haven't decided yet

I don't know much about wheel offsets and my current rims don't have any info stamped on them. My question is what offsets would make them fit nicely within the guards? Paint is only 2 months old and I'm not too keen about rolling the guards just in case it cracks the paint..

Any advice would be appreciated as I said I don't know much about this subject and I'm doing lots of research

if your goign to roll guards, id be going 9" minimum

if your goign to roll guards, id be going 9" minimum

Engineer wont certify anything over 8.5" wide on a gtst. He doesn't care about the diamteter of the rim just the width, something about modifying the track width +/- 25mm

Why are you getting wheels engineered? If anything i though it was within 2" diamiter of stock size and that is OK.

I can understand if you were tryign to put 22" rims on, But really, what needs to be engineered with 9" wide wheels.

seems odd.

Edited by sydking

2 inche is right, but the stock R32 Gts-t rims were 16x6.5 inches. R32 GTR rims were 16x7, cause it isnt a GTR I cannot get away with putting 9s on and still be within RTA's guidelines and get the engineering cert.

I thought if im going to the trouble of getting a couple of things engineered for blueslip i might as well get everything done, won't cost me much extra and it'll protect me from defects. Trying to do things the right way. The amount of hoops i have to jump through though lol

7.5" wide? That is pretty skinny, even for a 32GTST. I'd go 8.5" +30 if you want a safe fit.

I'm looking to go on R33 GTST.

9" +27 front 235/40/18

10" +30 rear 265/35/18

That would be a safe fitment. Nothing too outlandish, and sortaflush.

2 inche is right, but the stock R32 Gts-t rims were 16x6.5 inches. R32 GTR rims were 16x7, cause it isnt a GTR I cannot get away with putting 9s on and still be within RTA's guidelines and get the engineering cert.

I thought if im going to the trouble of getting a couple of things engineered for blueslip i might as well get everything done, won't cost me much extra and it'll protect me from defects. Trying to do things the right way. The amount of hoops i have to jump through though lol

correction gtst stock rims are 16x6, my bad.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...