Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Been looking at maybe getting some Touchdown TD136 rims from Cartel for my 33GTST.

How easily could I fit (F) 18x9.5+22 ® 18x10.5+25??

Also, does anyone have any of these rims on their car that they have a photo of??

Cheers all.

Ok, I've since found out only the 18x9.5 +22 clears the brake calliper in the Varrestons on the front.

Might be a bit too aggressive fit

Hey mate, are you saying the +30 option for varrstoens WONT clear the brakes on the front?

I was thinking of going 18x9.5 +22 rear and 18x9.5 +30 front as the fronts poke a bit more and im not really after that.

This is on a 33 gtst btw

Hey guys,

Been looking at maybe getting some Touchdown TD136 rims from Cartel for my 33GTST.

How easily could I fit (F) 18x9.5+22 ® 18x10.5+25??

Also, does anyone have any of these rims on their car that they have a photo of??

Cheers all.

I have pics on the last page of 18x9.5 +22 (-2 camber stock guards) 18x10.5 +30 (0 camber slight pump/flair)

Hey mate, are you saying the +30 option for varrstoens WONT clear the brakes on the front?

I was thinking of going 18x9.5 +22 rear and 18x9.5 +30 front as the fronts poke a bit more and im not really after that.

This is on a 33 gtst btw

Yeah, it doesn't clear the calliper according to the guy from Varrstoen

HELP OFFSET EXPERTS HERE:

Im trying atm to work out how far the wheels i am looking at buying , will stick out from my guards on my R34 GTR

Currently i have 18 x 10 +22 and looking at buying 18 x 9 +10 from my calculations the +10s will stick out .5mm less from the guards than the +22s .

Basically got the width of the rim 9 inches x 25 mm = 225 mm give or take and halved it for zero offset = 112.5 mm minus 10mm offset = 102.5 mm

10 inches x 25mm= 250mm = 125mm 22mm offset= 103 mm

Can anyone confirm this ?

Thanks

Edited by NISSAN GTR

Plenty of examples +22 fronts getting around. It's too much poke if you like driving your car anywhere.

As for the rears not sure. But last seems quite aggressive.

I have pics on the last page of 18x9.5 +22 (-2 camber stock guards) 18x10.5 +30 (0 camber slight pump/flair)

Cheers guys. It probably is a bit aggressive for a daily, so I think I may have to reassess my options.

Would I be correct in saying (F) 18 x 9 +30 ® 18 x 10 +35 would fit ok?

Cheers guys. It probably is a bit aggressive for a daily, so I think I may have to reassess my options.

Would I be correct in saying (F) 18 x 9 +30 ® 18 x 10 +35 would fit ok?

That will sit inside the guards, and I hope like hell it'll clear your suspension on the rears.

Sitting a fair more inset then stock, why not just go 18 x 9 + 30 all round, and get spacers if need be?

Edited by voncina

yeah man, 18 x 9 +30 all round works nicely. I understand you wanna go bigger on the back, but if you keep em the same your can rotate your rubber. even just go a 255 on the rear and 235 on the front.

You wanted 19s, couldn't get them, so decided on 20s instead. This says a lot about your personality...

Look think what you want about me I don't really care.

The reason I got 20's is cause I wanted that style of rim and I was told I couldn't get them in 19's.

so I hit 20's at the same price as 19's so I'm not complaining.

R32 gtst 2 door

Advan RG2's 18x9 +29 all round.

235/40 Sumitomo's (minimal stretch)

Suspension lowered to minimum legal height ( pretty high )

Front guards untouched, rears slightly rolled but wouldn't need to be.

Rims sit flush with guards, perfect fitment.post-116191-0-24551100-1379064184_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here is a recipe. Sonic blocks till you get one that has a good enough bore. Get a torque plate and block brace, use your choice of fasteners (arp ect) bolt the thing together empty, half fill it and let it cure. Release it when it has, go to a REPUTABLE RB Builder and get the thing line bored/honed and cylinder honed to size, then wash. Once its all clean and dandy, wash and blow it out again. Then again.  Assemble said engine to your desired clearances with oil control mods, gasket to suit desired CR/Squish ect. Attach your extended sump with proper trap door oil baffles and head drain plumbed to sump with a SUMP BREATHER SYSTEM. Build your front diff with a decent LSD, rebuild your transfer case with a few extra plates, more than likely replace your tailshaft centre bearing and tighten up the rear diff. Tune to minimise excessive midrange cylinder pressure (timing unless you like to split bores and rebuild engines) Enjoy your engine, but hate the fact you are now destroying engine mounts, gearboxes, gearbox mounts, diff output flanges and driveshafts, diff mounts, tailshafts and front CV's.   Disclaimer.... Ive never done any of the aforementioned stuff.......
    • 440s will support well over 400HP on petrol, which is a decent place to be for an RB20. 230+rwkW. Will be a safer bet for idle/low load. 550s would be nice for the extra headroom. I've made the same decision with mine (Neo25). 1000s are probably too big for the Nistuned ECU, so I have some smaller ones.
    • Appreciate everything guys. I did go ahead and get an alignment... most of my complains are solved. Car is not perfect, but it's good enough. If I notice uneven tire wear or anything I'll just take everything back to stock.  Thanks again!
    • They still have not shipped the 550cc injectors as they weren't in stock, so in theory I could ask to get the 440cc ones instead, if those work better in my scenario. They're the same price so really shouldn't be an issue. Unfortunately I am not so knowledgeable in most parts of tuning so I wasn't sure what's best to choose between the two. 440cc ones are the lowest they have (not in stock, but available to buy nonetheless).
×
×
  • Create New...