Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thats how haha if i run a 5mm spacer it would be fine but yeah a bit iffy about spacers however the hks time attack evo runs a rediculous sized hubcentric spacer so maybe ill look at gettig something like that and flaring the gaurds more so the tyre still sits inside the gaurd

post-134543-0-85454100-1403854811_thumb.jpg

advice to the masses pre and post page 152 in this thread- not aimed at anyone in particular

I think it has to be said aloud - get rims and tyres that fit :whistling:

Oh if only it was that easy! People would rather post asking questions, then trawl through masses of free information at their disposal.

Yeah only at full lock fb racing

Take a look at the upper and lower ball joints. It helps if you put you car in the air and remove the wheels. Grab your hub and move it side to side and up and down. Shake it. If there's a lot of play, replace the joints. Up and down will tell you ball joints. Side to side will tell you steer joints. If all is ok, look for paint chipping or cracking on your upper and lower arms. Also look for metal distorting and fatigue. The front geometry on the r33 suspension runs without flaws if camber is set at zero.

Diagnose is the first step. When I build an off-road race truck (this is common practices for all Motorsports), I'll cycle the suspension up and down ... side to side. I'll do this by lifting the chassis from the ground, removing the coil springs from the shock and replacing shock back in. Mount wheel and tire on hub and begin moving it to full compression to full drop. Look for interference from the chassis, fenders, etc. Next go full steer lock and go up and down again. This will help identify steering issues. Ball joints will give play and rock with the rubber boots destroyed. Look for rubber bushings worn and bolts not being centered in those bushings. Use a jack under the tire with your car being support by jack stands. That will aide in moving the weight up and down. Safety first. Never get any limbs under the car and watch your fingers when moving parts around. If you can't do this yourself, get a buddy to help or have a professional do it. After you figure it out, parts search... Nissan Fast will help you there which 99% of us have. Next time you post a problem in the future, post a lot of pics and try to explain the problem to the fullest so these guys can help. Most of us really don't want to ask 100 questions to help and most of us get tired of repeating ourselves. Nismoman along with others were accurate in their response. Normally you are to research and make sure the wheels fit before you buy or sell those and buy wheels that do. Have a great one buddy and best of luck.

Hi guys, after some advice. What mods will I have to do to make these wheels fit? 18x8.5 +35 front 18×9.5 +30 rear. Will this be a aggressive fitment? Hoping it will flush. Car is 1995 r33 gtst. Thanks ?

Hi guys, after some advice. What mods will I have to do to make these wheels fit? 18x8.5 +35 front 18×9.5 +30 rear. Will this be a aggressive fitment? Hoping it will flush. Car is 1995 r33 gtst. Thanks ?

Thats a fairly conservative fitment. Rears will sit flush with a nice big tyre like a 265/35. Front's will sit in the guard a bit. I ran that fitment with my old rotors seen here

e54b056b-50e6-43e0-9ce2-d16e01a7e94a_zps

235/40 on the front and 265/35 on the rear

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
    • Sorry I meant that we are building the EH for a client.
    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
×
×
  • Create New...