Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thats how haha if i run a 5mm spacer it would be fine but yeah a bit iffy about spacers however the hks time attack evo runs a rediculous sized hubcentric spacer so maybe ill look at gettig something like that and flaring the gaurds more so the tyre still sits inside the gaurd

post-134543-0-85454100-1403854811_thumb.jpg

advice to the masses pre and post page 152 in this thread- not aimed at anyone in particular

I think it has to be said aloud - get rims and tyres that fit :whistling:

Oh if only it was that easy! People would rather post asking questions, then trawl through masses of free information at their disposal.

Yeah only at full lock fb racing

Take a look at the upper and lower ball joints. It helps if you put you car in the air and remove the wheels. Grab your hub and move it side to side and up and down. Shake it. If there's a lot of play, replace the joints. Up and down will tell you ball joints. Side to side will tell you steer joints. If all is ok, look for paint chipping or cracking on your upper and lower arms. Also look for metal distorting and fatigue. The front geometry on the r33 suspension runs without flaws if camber is set at zero.

Diagnose is the first step. When I build an off-road race truck (this is common practices for all Motorsports), I'll cycle the suspension up and down ... side to side. I'll do this by lifting the chassis from the ground, removing the coil springs from the shock and replacing shock back in. Mount wheel and tire on hub and begin moving it to full compression to full drop. Look for interference from the chassis, fenders, etc. Next go full steer lock and go up and down again. This will help identify steering issues. Ball joints will give play and rock with the rubber boots destroyed. Look for rubber bushings worn and bolts not being centered in those bushings. Use a jack under the tire with your car being support by jack stands. That will aide in moving the weight up and down. Safety first. Never get any limbs under the car and watch your fingers when moving parts around. If you can't do this yourself, get a buddy to help or have a professional do it. After you figure it out, parts search... Nissan Fast will help you there which 99% of us have. Next time you post a problem in the future, post a lot of pics and try to explain the problem to the fullest so these guys can help. Most of us really don't want to ask 100 questions to help and most of us get tired of repeating ourselves. Nismoman along with others were accurate in their response. Normally you are to research and make sure the wheels fit before you buy or sell those and buy wheels that do. Have a great one buddy and best of luck.

Hi guys, after some advice. What mods will I have to do to make these wheels fit? 18x8.5 +35 front 18×9.5 +30 rear. Will this be a aggressive fitment? Hoping it will flush. Car is 1995 r33 gtst. Thanks ?

Hi guys, after some advice. What mods will I have to do to make these wheels fit? 18x8.5 +35 front 18×9.5 +30 rear. Will this be a aggressive fitment? Hoping it will flush. Car is 1995 r33 gtst. Thanks ?

Thats a fairly conservative fitment. Rears will sit flush with a nice big tyre like a 265/35. Front's will sit in the guard a bit. I ran that fitment with my old rotors seen here

e54b056b-50e6-43e0-9ce2-d16e01a7e94a_zps

235/40 on the front and 265/35 on the rear

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...